Not sure what changed overnight, but the engine is now able to go up to redline. Still get a flashing CEL as I go past 5500 or so, but doesn’t feel restricted at any point. It seems to upshift a lot quicker in manual mode as well. Going to clear all codes and start fresh this evening, I’m looking in way too many directions at the moment
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that’s it indeed
Got around to looking at my car this weekend. First step was looking at the fuel trims. I cleared the codes and looked at groups 032 and 033. In group 033, the values were hovering around 10% after the reset at idle. Is this high enough to conclude a vacuum leak?
And more of a general VCDS question, but is it normal for the “Adv measure blocks” to be greyed out for our car? My product is registered. Even when I go in thorugh the normal measuring blocks, I am unable to view the cylinder specific misfire counters, I believe these are MB 15, 16 and 17. Are any of you able to get into these? If so, I guess I need to follow up with Ross Tech.
I did do the Throttle body Adaptation and the Intake Flap Adaptation. I dont believe the Intake Flap adaptation worked because I have the flaps removed? Is there another one for the motors that control the swirl flaps?
Anyways, the car does seem to be running better after these adaptations. Will wait to hear back from the group on checking the misfire counters and the possible vacuum leak. If this is a possibility, I will water test the two PCV lines.
Which module are you checking for the cylinder specific misfires in? Misfire monitoring is carried out by the slave ECU (ie. engine 2)
This is why this forum is invaluable! I was definitely in ECU 1. Will check ECU when I get to use VCDS again later next week.
@GreetingsWench when is the last time you replaced your battery? Have you tested it? Another thing we have in common is that our cars had sat for quite a while. I am going to try boosting my battery today and see if it makes any difference.
For anyone, do people like to replace there battery with a specific model? Or just find one that matches the old on?
I replaced the battery about a month ago. Still had the original battery in there but it was on its way out. I replaced it with the same size and just made sure the CCA was equal or higher.
Smoke test showed no leaks, so I’m gonna order that PCV hose @dzow mentioned and see what changes, if anything. Running out of ideas at this point and I’m no closer to finding the source of this vibration
Hello @GreetingsWench
I had weird misfire shit going on and had the PCV hose replaced (due to cracking) as well as the Y plenum air distribution housing the throttle bodies mount to.
If the PCV hose does not fix the problem, don’t feel too bad about spending the money. The hose will break eventually.
As for the plenum, I had a leak from the throttle body fastener cracking the threading of the plenum, as well as a hairline crack in the rear of the plenum.
Did you go with new intake manifold gaskets by chance?
Lastly, even if the new battery matches the specs of the old, does the car need any teaching or adaptation for the new battery regardless?
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Hi @Revolv0,
That’s my thinking, removing the intake manifold has become almost second nature to me, so I might as well go through that process and replace the hose. No big loss if it doesn’t fix the issue. I didn’t notice any damage or cracks on the Y plenum, but I’ll give it a more thorough look when I’m replacing the hose, thanks for bringing that up.
I did get new intake manifold gaskets, waiting until everything is running right to get the JHM spacers as well. I do recall reading that when replacing the battery, it needs to be coded in order for the car to “see” it, but I never actually had to do anything. I’ve read multiple forum posts where others did not have to code it either, so not sure if this is just a way for dealerships to make a few bucks or what.
I was talking to a friend who had a similar issue on a BMW he previously owned and it turned out to be a bad crankshaft pulley/vibration damper. He had very similar symptoms: slight vibration at idle in all gears; very bad vibration at around 2000 RPM; random cylinder misfires; and at higher RPM the vibration would seemingly disappear. I’ll replace the hose first, and if that doesn’t work, I know what I’ll be trying next
Any updates on tracking down your issues?
No, I ended up parking it back in the summer. Didn’t want to risk damaging the engine with that constant misfire/vibration.
I’m thinking about pulling the engine this spring. Too cold to work on it right now. But unless I go through it all, I don’t think I’ll find the source of this problem. And it’ll be a good opportunity to give it a new lease on life.
When I pulled my engine I replaced the oil separator, and PVC breather hose that leads to the valley, and a new PVC cross hose (one that connects the two heads) all OEM parts
I still have cold start vibrations AFTER the enrichment cycle however. VCDS does not count them as misfires though the engine feels lumpy when cold. I usually just drive the car thru this at around 2k rpm
When warmes engine idles with 0 vibration now, I can sometimes not tell it is even on if it wernt for the exhaust.
I removed the PCV and blocked it off at the intake. It also removed any vibration caused from misfire and bad idle.
The PCV can cause tons for issues when it doesn’t work correctly.