2007 S8 restoring to its former glory

A8 All/ S8 All
#28

Latest update, I’ve been driving the car for a few days now and it really is a beautiful car, so smooth and comfortable.

So as a reminder when i purchased the car the Adaptive Cruise didnt work, the selling Audi dealer confirmed that it needed adaption and priced the car accordingly.

As the adaptation also involves a 4 wheel alignment I was waiting to finish the suspension work (upper control arms, tie rod ends and struts). So the car was booked in with Audi MN, was pleasantly suprised when they confirmed their fixed price of $249 for the job, especially as when i was reading up on other posts to see people being quoted $400-800 for the job.

So the car was dropped off on Tuesday, with the “it takes a few hours and we will call you”, honestly i expected a ca’. to say “before we can do the adaption you need all this other work doing” with a quote for $$$$.
Midday got a call to say, the 4 wheel alignment adaption has been completed but on the test drive the ACC doesnt seem to work and you can either come and collect it or we can look into it further my heart sank, and I had that put of my stomach fear that this was going to cost a fortune. I asked them to look into it further.
By the end of the day Tuesday they called to say they hadnt got a chance to look at it again, so Tuesday night i searched the web for costs of the front sensor which discounted costs $3000, i feared the worst.

Got the call from Audi Wednesday lunchtime to say the car is done, and that the sensor needed some more adjustment and re-adaption. And to add to the relief it cost $249 as originally quoted vs them adding more labor.

Picked the car up yesterday afternoon, and the ACC works great, steering is now perfectly straight and life is good.

Looking forward to tackling the next jobs, some more pre-emptive maintenance, a few convenience jobs and some cosmetics. Right now im going to enjoy driving a fully functioning, non leaking S8 :slight_smile:

#29

I didn’t do a lot to the car this weekend apart from driving it around and enjoying it. As we are coming into fall here in MN I opened the sunroof to enjoy the fresh air.

And as many of you will have experienced, I have the groaning sunroof wind deflector motor/mechanism. Which is a real pain as the automated deflector based on speed is a really good idea, basically it adjusts as you drive and you get a buffet free car. So unlike most cars you don’t need to crack a window open.

However the downside is that the motor is constantly working to adjust the deflector, so you get to enjoy the constant groaning. I decided to have a look at mine, to get to it you need to remove the dome light/switch cluster.

First pry out the light covers, they pivot from the rear (in relation to the car) so pry them from the front as shown.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/375472540.jpg

Sorry but this pic has been rotated 90 degrees to the left

With those removed you can see the 2 torx screws inside the lights, remove those, then you can pull the complete cluster down. I didn’t make a note but I think the cluster pivots from the rear.

With the cluster out you can see the deflector motor, moving the sunroof back and forth you will hear the noise all to well. I found that angling my motor slightly reduced the grinding to almost inaudible (other have dome this mod if you do a search). I just packed out the RHS of the motor with a ~2-3mm plastic strip as shown below. It’s a crude bodge to say the least, and I am sure the correct fix is a new motor but it works perfect and for the few months a year when the weather here is good enough to have the sunroof open.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/751936424.jpg

Again sorry but this pic is rotated 180 degrees, the spacer for me was to the right when you sit in the car.

It was a quick 10 minute job, went for a drive and I couldn’t hear the motor at all, just turbulence free 65 degree driving pleasure 

#30

awesome updates!

#31

Thank you sir

Some more work this weekend, I have the common weak trunk motor, meaning it would not open without some help, but would close. The very latest version on the motor has a cast metal casing, with a larger 201Nm motor, this has a part number ending in H, mine was the older plastic casing 188Nm motor, part number ending in G. I presume with age hinges wear and need more force to open, + the plastic casing flexes slightly allowing the clutch mechanism in the motor to slip.
If you search the inter web you can find some mods to fix the trunk even with the older motor. One of the fixes is to add a spring to the LHS hinge bump stop, I tried a few springs and got it to work, you need a spring strong enough to help the LHS to lift enough to help the weak motor, but not so strong that the trunk won’t auto close.
I got one to work but it was inconsistent and didn’t seem to work every time.
Another fix is to strip the old motor and add some abrasive 120 grit sanding disc to the clutch plate, I didn’t bother trying that one.

I found a later H version motor on EBay shipped for $310, takes 10 minutes to fit, just remove the 2 outer 13mm headed bolts under the the RHS hinge (don’t remove the central painted bolt, that is to adjust the hinge).

I now have a fully functioning electric trunk :slight_smile:

#32

After all the work, treated the car to a detail

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/873132416.jpg

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/354984911.jpg

#33

Replaced the Start Stop button, worked fine but annoying when they wear

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/884737137.jpg

Super simple 10 minute job, remove the ashtray, then removed the torx screw behind it as shown

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/558019279.jpg

Once the screw is out pull the ash tray frame out and disconnect the electrical connection. Then you can just pull the center console trim up and forward to remove.
Replacing the switch is straight forward, 1 torx and a small brass pin, sorry I didn’t take a pic of that, but it is obvious

#34

So my front right (2 year old 40-50k Arnott) strut seems to still be leaking as its seems to be dropping. Checked the valve block and I can see anything, so it looks like that needs replacing.

#35

WOW good to know it was that simple. Also thanks for the pictures I’m sure that will be useful in the future.

#36

Sorry my bad typing on an iPad , I can’t see anything on the valve block, so I’m looking at replacing the strut

#37

Well my suspension woes seem far from over, I have the following:

  1. Slight knock developing on the LHS, quickly checked everything last night and nothing is loose. So I think it may be the Arnott strut I fitted, will call them today.
  2. RHS front and rear has started dropping, rear 5-8mm and front 25mm overnight. Rear is the original and front is a 2yr old 40+k Arnott.
  3. Keep getting a repeated G291 code.

Whilst the previous owner replaced both the valve block and the compressor, I only have records that it was fitted by Audi and the PO had supplied the parts, so unsure what they fitted.
I have ordered a compressor rebuild kit, looks like most G291 code relate to weak compressors. My concern is the dropping RHS is linked to the valve block more so than the struts, done the soapy water and it’s not showing anything.
Think I’m going to order a new Arnott front right strut, get that done and see what breaks next :wink:

#38

Thought I would give the latest update, slowly knocking down the issues

Regarding the knock, I checked all the suspension linkages out and whilst they were torqued up correctly on assembly, the upper control arm (left) pinch bolt just nipped up a little more when I re-torqued it maybe 1/4 - 1/2 a turn max. To be honest I wasn’t totally comfortable that the bolts that came with the Mearle control arms were up to spec, so I purchased replacements from Audi, fitted and torqued to spec and that seems to have resolved the clunk. I think the parts just settled and needed a re-torque or the bolts relaxed, as the clunks started maybe 800 miles after the initial rebuild. I am surprised by this as having done suspension work before I haven’t had this issue, but glad it is resolved.

On the front end dropping, after doing some reading and positing on Audiworld, it seems the correct procedure to check the struts is to put the car in Jack mode (it stops the car from adjusting the ride height when parked, and eliminates the solenoid valve from what I understand) then measuring the drop as an accurate measure of the struts leaking. So I did this and the front was dropping 20-25mm in 24hrs, more so on the RHS which was the older strut (LHS just replaced). So I disconnected the sway bar to ensure the front drop is independent of each side, re set the car and the RHS front was dropping over 30-40mm in 24hrs.
Purchased a remanufactured Arnott for the RHS front, fitted it and left the car in Jack mode for 10 days and the car dropped 2-5mm across all corners, bearing in mind my measuring wasn’t totally scientific (tape measure by eye from the floor) and that the temp dropped around 20 degrees over that time I felt that was fine and acceptable. So based on this I really don’t think I have a leaking strut issue anymore. So all seemed fixed……….

Onto the G291 code, this code relates to a sensor in the valve block, some posts seem to link this code to a weak compressor. I have checked the lines to the compressor, valve block and struts and there are no visible leaks with the bubble test. And based on the above I’m confident my struts are good. On the compressor side as noted in previous posts the previous owner supplied a replacement one that was fitted by Audi last year, and I noted that after fitting the new RHS strut when I restarted the car it pumped the system up quickly and the compressor doesn’t run very long at all, mostly the car seems to be able to pump itself up from the accumulator. Based on those data points I feel the compressor is ok.
BUT, my problem is that I am still getting the G291 code, despite clearing it repeatedly, I was to the point that the car seemed fine and I was going to ignore it, until………….

Last night after parking the car a few hrs later the front right had dropped again ARRRRRRGGHHH, opening the drivers door and you can hear the valve block cycling and the car pumps itself back up again from the accumulator, no compressor running. Checked again this morning and the front right has dropped and the G291 is pretty much showing every time I drive the car. So I’m to the point where I am pretty sure my valve block is failing of has a sticking valve as the drop is random, and when it does drop it is severe. With the new struts I’m confident they are good, I do think I had a strut issue as in Jack mode the car was dropping.

I have an Audi used part specialist close to me and they have a used block for $139 and the guarantee the parts are tested, I’m going to get that and see if I can resolve this G291 code first, then check whether this random dropping is resolved. Looking on the bright side by the time I have finished this car will have a fully rebuilt suspension system, thank god I’m not paying a garage for labor.

#39

Whilst I have the car parked up for the above suspension work I decided to replace the front brakes, the pads were pretty much down to the sensors, yet the discs still had plenty of material on them.

I ordered a set of Pagids off Rockauto, I have them on my BMW 328 and they work great. I thought the price was really good at $105 delivered. And the fact they come with the sensors built in meant the front pad replacement on the S8 is cheaper than a run of the mill BMW 328!!.

Dropped the discs off to a local garage for refinishing, they were shocked at the size of them as they mostly work on domestic cars. $27 later and they were perfect and ready to fit. It’s a really easy job to do and it take longer to jack the are up and remove the wheels than it does to change the brakes.

So for $132 I essentially have new discs and pads fitted, I almost want to call Audi to ask what they would charge as clearly they wouldn’t refinish discs and I am sure would fit new.

#40

Audi policy is to obviously replace the rotors. dealer rotors are not cheap so that is a big chunk of the cost. add the S8 with carbon brakes and its a lot of money on a brake job.

#41

The initial good news seems to be that the replacement solenoid valve block seems to have resolved the G291 fault code. Before it came up pretty much every time I drove the car. Drove it a few times today and nothing, fingers crossed.

#42

Following doing the front discs and pads I wanted to also do a brake flush. I have a Motive Power pressure bleeder, best brake investment made. Makes one person brake bleeding simple and way faster.

I put 2 quarts through the system, and this came out of the rear brakes

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/467854342.jpg

The bleed nipples we almost seized tight on the rear, I get the distinct feeling its been a while since the rears were flushed.

Fronts were better, but happy to know they full system is done now.

#43

man, the fluid was DONE. (sigh) I guess I need to do mine…Just so tedious without a pressure bleeder and an extra person. I’ve been dragging my feet on doing my brakes period - my front rotors are done. I want the JHM LW rotors, but after ponying up $2k for a new intake my spousal approved budget for the year is shot.

Any plans for the car other than fixing the list of gremlins?

#44

Not really any plans to modify it, other than a little more noise. So thinking about possibly removing the rear resonators, or opening up the rear muffler to see if you can gut the a little for noise.

Working on an annoying noise in the car since buying it, sounds like a pebble rolling inside the passenger rear door when you really get on and off the gas. After removing both front and rear door cards, nothing there.
Tracked it down to the door sill chassis rail. It looks like the sill trim was removed previously and the clips that fix the trim snapped off and now rolling up and down the chassis. You cannot see inside or get access to remove it. I dropped some clear silicon down the clip hole, drove the car and caught part of the clip. Leaving the silicon to harden and hopefully trap the roaming clip. Fingers crossed that will stop the rattling, as it is bloody annoying.

#45

So some good news on the car, ran a VCDS and the G291 suspension code is gone for good. I think its the first time since owning the car that I haven’t had some sort of suspension code.

Also the silicon in the frame rail seems to have addressed the annoying rattling trim.

Still have a few outstanding items:

  1. VCDS codes for the Alarm horn (Which is odd as it works when I set the alarm off)
  2. Code for the rear right footwell heater, seems a common issue. Not something that really bothers me day to day.
  3. TPMS sensors out, again another one that doesn’t bother me as I switched the warning off. Will replace them when I get new tires.
  4. Trunk opens on the 2nd try, first try lifts the RHS first then stops, 2nd try opens it. Anyone had any luck adjusting the hinges to fix this?
  5. Seeing what I would call excessive condensations in the headlights usually after a car wash, it drys but its annoying. Will have to look into this more.
  6. Still have some maintenance that I want to address - new fuel pump, wipers, tranny/diff oil changes.

Other than the maintenance I could ignore all of the above, but enjoy working on the car so unless a big $$ fix will probably address sooner or later. When they are running well they are great cars :slight_smile:

#46

Is it hard to DIY for the headlights?

#47

It’s very easy just takes time. Hardest part is taking the bumper cover off if you want to remove the headlights. You could do it with them fitted but it’s a little messy.

The actual sanding just takes time to go from 800 to 5000, probably 30 minutes a light. Polishing with an orbital is simple, then sealing is simple just wait an hr between coats.

Very satisfying once it’s done and your lights look like new :slight_smile: