I learned quite a bit more reading through some of these posts: http://dreamingin302ci.blogspot.com/
Read post #35.
The RSS+ are single adjustable, so it adjusts rebound and compression all in one.
They are a bit harsh but my inquiry in post 35 may alleviate some of the harshness, was looking for some input regarding this issue.
It will help with noise and vibration, not harshness.
Confused 
My response was to post 35 
I was answering the inquiry about shock setup. Which, in general, even if the shock is single adjustable (rebound + compression in one), rebound moves up incrementally more than compression would. Most properly done shocks are nice this–and since the RSS uses a Bilstein strut, it most likely works the same way. With that in mind, my original response will still be relevant to your inquiry.
Regarding the top hat - are you referring to the actual strut mount, or the spring pad?
If it’s the spring pad, I would not remove that.
If it’s regarding the actual tophat for the strut, you have the option of substituting the stock one for the one that came with the RSS (assuming shock shaft diameter is the same–which if they’re like the Bilstein struts, they should be!). I would definitely retain the stock top hat for street use.
Plus, since the front end is double wishbone, having a firmer top hat won’t do nearly as much for performance as it otherwise would on a mac strut car (as the top hat would directly affect keeping the wheel’s alignment under load).
Yes, basically I was referencing the first part of the post.
I am referring to the rubber spring isolator that sits between the hat on the spring. I will put it back in and let you know how it affects the ride.
Thank you very much for the response regarding my dampening question.
If you just think about the front end of the car only to keep things simpler this is the effect of bump and rebound
Too much front bump: stiffer front feel car will have minimal nose dive under breaking.
Too little front bump: softer front feel car will nose dive heavily under breaking and will have lot more roll in the corners.
Too much rebound in the front car under breaking will come back from the nose dive lot quicker to its original platform
Too little rebound under braking in the front car will stay nose dived for a long time i am not saying for a day but it will feel like you are doing an endo on a bike especially if you have the bump on soft setting. That also causes the rear tires to get lighter and may even cause rears to lock up.
Lets go to rear now and think about acceleration
Too much bump in the rear under acceleration, car wont squat since its way too stiff, the weight stays more to the front of the car. I think this is what s4 needs personally.
Too little bump in the rear under acceleration car will squat really good tranfering all the weight to the rear and may cause the front get lighter under heavy accell there fore causing corner exit throttle induce understeer which i think S4 suffers from.
Too much rebound in the rear under acceleration keeps the weight transfer to the front more, even the small squatting gets back to normal immediately, meaning car keeps it pre acceleration platform
Too little rebound in the rear car will squat under acceleration heavily especially if this compunds with soft bump settings in the rear. Ass of the car will stay down longer. In a corner this helps eliminating you shitting your pants with massive throttle induced over steer but with that may come nasty understeer.
I hope this helps explaining bump and rebound in a nut shell.
Figured I would share this picture of the RSS+ front springs confirming the 686 lb/in rate.
180 is uncompressed spring length
60 is external diameter(don’t quote me)
120 is N/mm which converts to 686lb/in
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/22/b644d552bae66eed3185b83151e1c677.jpg
Awesome!
Not bad. IIRC the rear was in the 340lb range.
Do you know if the RSS are adjustable? If so, I personally would be tempted to swap out the rear springs for something else. How are you liking them after putting back the spring isolator?
Correct the rear spring is 60 N/mm so half of the fronts exactly.
I am noticing less NVH after putting the front spring isolators back in. Really enjoying the setup right now. Front dampers are 3 from full stiff, and the rears are set to full stiff.
Really good neutral leaning to oversteer setup right now.
Sway bar soft in the front and full stiff in the rear.
Nice! I’ll be installing mine next week. It finally arrived from Germany…
Placed an order for the JRZ kit. It’s kind of complicated. Order from a shop in CA that calls a shop in MD that calls the Netherlands. I wish there was like an Internet of computers that could do this.
That does sound pretty elaborate and inefficient. LoL.
Hope they are good, and I hope you have support should something go awry.
sweet, any idea where your going to mount the reservoirs? I could do the install if you were to come to sac for a decent price.
Everything is contained. No rear coilover option. I have to have a shop inspect a bunch of other suspension things and replace as necessary, including sphericals.
so is the rear height adjustable at all, or just a fixed spring?
What would be the point of this if you can’t adjust the rear height?
The rear is adjustable. I think what he meant by “not a rear coilover” is that the rear retains factory configuration. A true rear coilover may require chassis reinforcement at the shocktower and would change motion ratio. His rear spring will have adjustable perches