Anything else to do while getting the serp belt done? [S4]

Might as well do the idler pulley while you are there.

don’t bother with a water pump, I’ve only ever heard of one failure and that was a thermostat

DIY for the window regulator: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/393612-B7-Window-Regulator-Tutorial

Don’t get the VDO brand. Had one fail in 3 weeks >:(

Ha ha I fail at typing. I meant Super Sports. Which are what was delivered and are in my car. Phew!

Cool, thanks for the link. I often forget to look in the A4 sections for stuff like this.

Fair enough, t-stat it is.

Will do.

Thanks for help guys! Booked in for Weds, just waiting for the West Coast to wake up so I can overnight some parts from JHM.

Really, what makes you think that about the PS3’s? I have a set coming in today. A guy out in CO are trading me the PS3’s from his stock wheels that are brand new for the Nokian snow tires my car came with.

that’s a good trade. Suck was the wrong word. They’re just not as good as the PS2s were in a variety of ways. Michelin made the Super Sports the replacement for the PS2, and the PS3 were another tire not as awesome, but solid.

I’m sure you’ll love them. Some of the road course guys swear by the SS vs. the PS3, and reviews on the SS are that they’re the best tire out there. If I could get a set for a significant discount (PS3) the way you did, I’m sure I’d welcome them with open arms.

the PS3s have a bit of an all-season look to them

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/michelin/mi_pilot_sport3_ci2_l.jpg

the supersports look very similar to the PS2…all business

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/michelin/mi_pilot_ss_ci2_l.jpg

[quote=“bangoman,post:1,topic:3473”]
You don’t have to fully take the front end off to do all that stuff. Just have them put it into service position by taking the bolts out and moving it forward a few inches. To fully take the front end off you have to drain the AC refrigerant, disconnect the coolant and power steering lines, etc.

It would be a good time to install the engine mounts though unless you want to do them yourself. The engine mounts are not hard to replace, it is just tight like everything else on one these cars and the passenger side 13mm nut on the top is kind of a bitch. Especially when you have the purple pink OEM mount fluid running down your arm - oh that was probably just me.

don’t bother with the tstat if your car warms up fine, it was a random failure

x2 on not touching the thermostat. I’d do the idler pulley while you’re in there. Check the front main seal for leaks while the crank pulley is off.

Cool, no on the tstat then. Decided against sways for another day.

Clean the front of the motor :wink:

That is if it is that dirty lol

So it looks like this or better:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/mycleanedengine1.jpg

Woah that is clean! What do you use? Simple Green Extreme and a scrub brush? That is what I like to use for cleaning, breaks down grease and is safe on aluminum.

Mine looks like that and I haven’t even cleaned it. (it was also installed just over a year ago ;D)

I used ZEP engine degreaser, brake clean, small wire brush, and a bunch of zip ties all tied together. I started a thread on Audizine right after I did the work.

Very nice indeed. I suspect mine is quite dirty after spraying oil pre valve cover gaskets!

I used Gunk Engine Degreaser, a bunch of stiff brushes, and about a dozen cans of brake cleaner to ‘power wash’ the sides of the motor that I couldn’t get with a brush

This is what it looks like after the engine degreaser has been sitting for a few minutes. It litterally melts away the grease

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x59/joec1992/DSCN0145.jpg

And all done…

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x59/joec1992/photo-98.jpg

[/whoring my clean motor]

Well I just got the car back and wow does it stop and go much better. The LWCP is just another little thing that makes the car rev a little faster. Replacing snub, motor and rear diff mounts has eliminated all kinds of thunks and most importantly gained smoother shifts.

Finally got the winters off and the BBS RC/Super Sports on. Comparison for kicks:

  • 18" Avus + Falken FK452 tyre = 23.3 kg / 51.3 lbs
  • 17" BBS RC + Michelin Super Sport = 19.1 kg / 42.1 lbs

So about a 9 lb per corner saving, which is what a pair of JHM LW rotors would save me at the front, so I’m pretty pleased as I’ve achieved weight reductions yet kept something a little OEM (the RC’s came with the C5 A6 2.7T Sport package I believe). Might look better with spacers. Quick pic at the park:

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5171/20120518171913.jpg

The 18" Avus didn’t go to waste. Quite the opposite. I think they look much more at home on the C4 S4!

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6026/20120516175912.jpg

the avus wheels look great on that beast

RS4 doesn’t have a snub mount. I’d love to tighten it up because there’s a bit of drivetrain clunk on shifts and when engaging the clutch once in a whlie. Wonder what is do-able.