B8 S4/S5 Suspension Thread

Here’s my alignment set up:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/e291b90957d92e329aa69de86d6e70a4.jpg

I also upgraded my front lower arm bushings to something stiffer from Meyle (higher durometer with less voids). Steering is much more direct (less slop).

WHOA!
What’s the part number on the Miele LCA bushings?
I want those!!!

I don’t have the part number but if you wanted to get it from Achtuning, they stock em (though not displayed on the site). :frowning:

I just had a look on the invoice. Meyle HD Control Arm Bushing.

West, I’m curious if you would still go JRZ if you did it over again? Also, did you happen to go through PSi or GMG to get them? I emailed GMG and they indicated that the dampers have now been redesigned to have a better range of adjustment (probably based on your testing).

I am a few months (or more) out on this still but considering my options. Bilstein PSS-10, JRZ RS1, and PSi Ohlins are all on my radar. Price is a factor so we’ll see where I end up (probably not on the Ohlins). Right now I am leaning towards JRZ (even if I have to wait a bit longer to get them).

Then I am installing Eurocode Sways and End Links as soon as they ship out and will get adjustable control arms when I do the suspension. I am looking to stay somewhat near stock ride height also.

I wouldn’t change a thing about the JRZ’s. They are exactly what I wanted and I think they may be the best option for this chassis. I have them set to 0/24 front and 4/24 rear, with the 500 springs front and 650 rear. If I had to do it over I’d probably have a 500 spring on the rear as well instead of the 650. The 650 is fine but it makes the back seat completely unusable for passengers (I don’t have a back seat any more because there’s no point). As @boro92 suggested, I’m going to set the front Eurocode swaybar to stiff to compensate. Currently both bars are set to soft.

I’d recommend against the Ohlins TTX36. My instructor buddy has them on his TT-RS and they started leaking at 8000 miles. He had a bad experience. I think they overstate how streetable they are, and the guy who builds them isn’t the type that is open to feedback (he’s right about everything).

JRZ performs just how I expect, no crazy behaviors at the edges, and seems to be reliable for mixed street/track as long as you’re not doing 20k miles a year in city commuting. I’d do them on the Boxster if I start tracking that car.

If you want to read about my Boxster track experience: http://www.planet-9.com/981-cayman-boxster-competition/109153-porsche-experience-center-atlanta-today.html#post962079

Awesome, thanks for the feedback and excellent that you are still happy with the JRZ’s, they are definitely looking like the most viable option at the moment and are on my list as soon as I can make it happen. I’ll keep your thoughts in mind regarding the spring rates also.

Very cool on the Boxster track experience, sounds like a fun event! My last car was a 997.2 PDK C2S w/ sport chrono. It was an absolute beast on the track (and street) in Sport Plus mode, gives me chills. I should have kept it but I wanted to get back into a manual, wanted something more comfortable and practical as a DD, and had never had a sport sedan, so went for the S4 (after cancelling an M3 ED pre-order). Interesting path I know but still enjoying the S4 in dual duty and I’ll pick up another Porsche at some point down the road, great 2nd car IMO.

Oh, and I do about 8-9k city miles per year in my car so that should be okay I think in terms of rebuild time frames.

Thanks again for sharing your experience with the JRZ’s.

Oh, and I did order the JRZ from GMG Motorsports in LA. I’m not sure if they’re just a middle man because Brian Hise at JRZ USA in Maryland did the spec for the B8. Then JRZ Netherlands actually built and valved the dampers and shipped it to LA. GMG likely added the springs and all of the supporting hardware before sending it to me. All in all it took about 6 weeks and cost a little under $4k.

In a few years I may be tempted to order a second set of dampers so I can proactively send them in for service, instead of waiting until something fails. What I like about the design is it’s VERY simple so I’m hoping that translates to long term reliablity.

Question for anyone who has H&R OE Sport Springs installed. Got mine a month or so ago, and I hear a slight clunking noise when I go over some bumps, usually when I am turning too or backing out of my driveway. When I hit speed bumps or normal road bumps, no noise. Just when turning or backing out of my driveway and turning into the street at low speed. Less than 1000 miles on the springs. I have ADS too.

Any ideas what it may be?

Could be a multitude of things. Loose bolts are possible. Could be sway bar bushings. I’d actually recommend going onto audizine, there are hundreds of threads on this kind of stuff. I don’t believe having oe springs makes your case any different than anyone else with clunks.

Agreed. AZ had a big thread on this like he said, and IIRC most common was the sway link - I had the same thing on mine. It only happened to my wife, she pulls in forward, I back in. It would either clunk when crossing the curb (I have a bit of a bump) or right after, when turning the wheel opposite direction after backing out to drive forward.

I just got my hands on one of those double-hull firewall tower braces that the dude over on AZ is fabricating for $150. Any true believers care to chime in on it? I had a regular strut tower brace on my old E90 325i from Dinan - the only shortcoming was it covered the oil fill hole so it had to be removed every time I got an oil change. But otherwise I liked it.

the top strut nut may have not been torqued all the way down. you can test it by pushing down on on the top of the fender by the strut and listening for a slight knock.

like i had told you, i was surprised i even felt a difference with the AZ bar. Everyone that has got one says the same thing, you can feel the steering tighten up.

I bought one but haven’t had the chance to install it. I took apart the first firewall while attempting to get to some exhaust bolts…I don’t think the first firewall does much of anything in terms of chassis rigidity. So I can definitely see the bar making a difference.

I really think that current Audi A/S models are not made to be stiff and make you feel the road. So I think part of the flex in the front of the car is to promote nice compliant ride. There’s been arguing about crash safety, but I do think a lot of these parts are vehicle DNA decisions.

link to that bar?

Here is an example thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/665357-Review-CR-15-Upper-Strut-Tower-Brace

Porsche has the same double hull firewall design in the Boxster. I’ll have to inspect to see if they stiffen up the top, though I suspect they might not for the same ride compliance reasons. I don’t believe any of this impacts crash safety in the passenger cell.

I actually thought it helped more than the AluKruez. I was super skeptical and expecting no noticeable change, but figured I’d give it a go for $150. I noticed a significant difference in the steering tightness, and the creaks and groans coming from the front end when the chassis is flexed a lot.

I have to go over a big bump into my steep driveway at a sharp angle, and before the front end creaked and groaned like crazy. It’s all but gone now. I still get some from the rear, so it’d be cool if someone came up with a rear bar…

Interesting. Flew under the radar for me.

I’m wondering how this would affect the rear in relation since the fronts have been stiffened up. Is there something from factory already in that location? It would be very interesting to compare (my car is already quite rigid in handling).

I hope the dude doesn’t get shit piled on him like prime did with the cool paddles. (though I suppose there’s no specific vendor pimping CF alternatives :wink: )

When I was getting the rollbar installed I had asked about the rear tower stiffness. They indicated it wasn’t really a problem for this chassis.