Suspension travel
I put this hardware list together to cover all of the basic hardware that is used when installing front control arms or coilovers (or shocks and springs). ECS sells a basic front and rear kit, but it also includes the mounts which aren’t really needed. ECS or the dealer usually stocks most of these parts. As always, you should verify that this is what your car actually has. At least one of these parts varies by year (noted below). Items with ** should be replaced when installing new components (stretch bolts or lock nuts). If you find any mistakes or issues, let me know, and I’ll update.
FRONT
Top nut- shock: N10106402 (1 per side- mounts shock to upper mount- should be included with new shocks or coilovers)
Upper mount bolts: N91152301 (4 per side- mounts upper mount to car)
Upper control arm bolts: N10425302 (2 per side- mounts upper control arm to upper mount)
Upper control arm nuts: N10286110 (2 per side- mounts upper control arm to upper mount)
Upper control arm spindle bolts: N10491802 (1 per side- mounts upper control arms to spindle- up to 6/2011)
N10770901 (1 per side- mounts upper control arm to spindle- from 6/2011)
Upper control arm spindle nuts: N10272302 (1 per side- mounts upper control arm to spindle)
Lower shock bolts: N90954802 (1 per side- mounts shock to lower mount)**
Lower shock nuts: N10106402 (1 per side- mounts shock to lower mount)**
Lower mount bolts: N10241202 (1 per side- mounts lower mount to lower control arm)**
Lower mount nuts: N10106402 (1 per side- mounts lower mount to lower control arm)**
REAR
Top nut- shock: N10286110 (1 per side- mounts shock to upper mount- should be included with new shocks or coilovers)
Upper mount bolts: N91066101 (2 per side- mounts upper mount to car)
Bottom shock bolts: N10500802 (1 per side- mounts shock to arm)**
Bottom shock washer: WHT002389 (1 per side- mounts shock to arm)**
Sweet! Great to have those part numbers!!!
That list is uber helpful - esp when replacing the torque to yield hardware (I’m assuming that entire list is torque to yield).
I’m not sure about the bolts used to mount the F/R upper mounts to the chassis, but everything else appears to be. I have a manual somewhere, and I’ll try to verify exactly what it says should be replaced.
Here’s the list of replacement bolts and nuts for B8 front and rear sway bars and end links and subframe (Alu Kreuz) bolts
I haven’t seen it here, and the price EuroCode and 034 ask for a set is outrageous
For all this I paid $47.60 with delivery and tax
Front sway bar and end links set, should be the same for B8 and B8.5 S4 and S5 Coupe. Cabriolet is possibly different:
N90183802 x4 stabilizer bar lock nut (not N90183803, it’s not the right one)
N10570702 x2 stabilizer link lower bolt
N10699901 x2 stabilizer link upper bolt
N10286110 x2 stabilizer link lock nut
Part diagram: http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2012/Audi/S5/Base?siteid=214407&vehicleid=378344&diagram=1340400
Rear sway bar and end links set, should be the same for B8 and B8.5 S4 and S5 Coupe. Cabriolet is possibly different:
N10644701 x4 stabilizer bar bolt
N90997802 x4 stabilizer link bolt
N10272302 x2 stabilizer link lock nut
Part diagram: http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2012/Audi/S5/Base?siteid=214407&vehicleid=378344&diagram=1340685
Subframe (Alu Kreuz) set for B8 S4 and S5 Coupe only. B8.5 and Cabriolet are different:
N91151101 x6 strut assembly bolt
Part diagram: http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2012/Audi/S5/Base?siteid=214407&vehicleid=378344&diagram=1340420
Thanks for posting.
The B8.5 takes
qty 4 : N91151101 12x1.5x42 hex head - List price $3.70 (2.29 at genuine)
qty 2 : WHT005372 12x1.5x51 triple square - List price $3.50 (2.17 at genuine)
The parts diagram only shows the hex head, but Bill at Genuine Audi Parts confirmed these part #'s for me before my order.
Part Diagram : http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2013/Audi/S5/Base?siteid=214407&vehicleid=405401&diagram=1340420
New for this year, stiffer springs all around. I bottomed out on a race track (I think I posted about that a while ago), so decided to go one level up in stiffness to help combat that a bit.
I’m running 180mm length, 60mm I.D, 742 in/lbs (previous was 686 in/lbs) fronts, and 160mm length, 60mm I.D, 400 in/lbs (previous was 343 in/lbs) rear. It has raised the car a bit (height was not adjusted).
Also got an alignment:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160310/fd02d2d50e5edd555e6b1a0383b8f7eb.jpg
Wow it’s going to drive niiice. Remind me again, are your RSS adjustable for rebound? What’s with the front toe btw. That’s crazy not good amounts for performance driving
Thanks! The RSS+ is rebound and compression adjustable (adjusted together).
Really? How so? (out of curiosity) I was running similar to that last year (0.06) and it’s been great.
Thanks for Posting, I just installed the RSS+ on my B8 need to adjust them some what is the dampening setting you are running? and lastly do you have PNs for the new springs you put in
I’ll look when I’m home, but they’re the race springs with the below specs:
Fronts: 180mm length, 60mm I.D, 742 in/lbs
Rears: 160mm length, 60mm I.D, 400 in/lbs
http://www.hrsprings.com/products/id-race/
I believe the settings are 4 down from the highest setting. I need to double check my paperwork when I get home.
Sweet thanks very much, one last question did you leave the helper springs in with these, I am guessing yes.
I did. 
If u like it then it’s OK. Obviously it works for u :). But that much toe in delays turn in response and makes the car more pushy on entry. It also reduces how darty the car responds to changes in steering angle, and causes mid corner understeer to happen sooner.
Think of it this way…when your two front wheels are turned, the inner wheel travels a shorter distance than the outer wheel. By toeing in, the 2 tires fight each other and the disparity in distance traveled when the wheels are turned is greater. This puts more heat in your tires, more tire wear and a poorer handling car. Toe out is the opposite, and causes the inner tire to point more sharply towards the corner…so that it accounts for the smaller distance travelled by the inner tire better. Any track or race setup will have toe out on the front tires. at worst, it will be 0 toe. But never toe in on the front unless the car handles very funny and requires a reduction in front end grip and response…which IMO is the opposite of what an Audi needs
Love this guide. I bolded my choices.
http://www.thesmokingtire.com/2012/massive-list-of-solutions-to-understeeroversteer/
[quote]Understeer Corrections
Drive a different line.
Use weight transfer to your advantage.
Push, plowing, front tires slide out first.
Usually slight under-steer is safer.
Raise front tire pressure.
Lower rear tire pressure.
Soften front shocks.
Stiffen rear shocks.
Lower front end.
Raise rear end.
Widen front track.
Install shorter front tires.
Install taller rear tires.
Install wider front tires.
Install narrower rear tires.
Soften front sway bar.
Stiffen rear sway bar.
More front toe out.
Reduce rear toe in slightly.
Increase front negative camber.
Increase positive caster.
Soften front springs.
Stiffen rear springs.
May need more front suspension travel.
Install wider front wheels.
Use softer front compound if possible.
Use harder rear compound if possible.
Remove weight from front of vehicle.
Add weight to rear of vehicle.
High Speed. Increase front wing down-force.
Too much front brake.
Vehicle is TWITCHY at limit and hard to keep ahead of in the steering department.
Lower front and rear tire pressures slightly.
Suspension may be too stiff.
Shocks may be set too firm.
Tires may be old or hard.
Vehicle may not have enough suspension travel.
Vehicle may have a toe problem front or rear.
Increase negative camber front and rear if possible.
Oversteer Corrections
*Driver may be going in too deep.
*Driver may be getting on the throttle to early.
Loose, rear tires slide out first.
Oversteer can be dangerous, especially at high speeds.
Lower front tire pressure.
Raise rear tire pressure.
Stiffen front shocks.
Soften rear shocks.
Raise front end.
Lower rear end.
Reduce rear track.
Install taller front tires.
Install shorter rear tires.
Install narrower front tires.
Install wider rear tires.
Stiffen front sway bar.
Soften rear sway bar.
More front toe in.
Increase rear toe in.
Reduce front negative camber.
Reduce positive caster.
Stiffen front springs.
Soften rear springs.
May need more rear suspension travel.
Install wider rear wheels.
Use harder front compound if possible.
Use softer rear compound if possible.
Add weight to front of vehicle.
Remove weight from rear of vehicle.
High Speed. Increase rear wing down-force.
Too much rear brake.
Vehicle slides and is easy to drive at limit but
does not corner to full potential.
Raise front and rear tire pressures slightly.
Suspension may be too soft.
Shocks may be too soft.
Roll centers may be too high.
Lower vehicle.
Tires may be too hard.
Widen track front & rear.”
[/quote]
Those lists are so bad. Those setup tips are only valid for specific parts of the corner under specific driving conditions (steady state vs on power vs off power vs on brake vs coasting etc).
It’s a good baseline for experimentation, but do not refer to it as a tuning Bible by any means. They can be very misleading
It’s more thought provoking than anything. It makes you consider the equivalency of various tuning parameters. Of course the efficacy of any given adjustment will vary by platform. That is the tricky part.
-3.2 was too much camber. -2.5 is the spot.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170711/fd288e8566f5f7669c72dce8d00232b5.jpg
I’m changing the rear spring from a 650 lb to an 800 lb. It’s about 23% stiffer. The person who built the kit for me gave me an option of a 750 rear spring when I ordered. With the wing, I think I need 800. Despite the car being 0.75" higher in the rear, it sinks at least an inch at high speed.