Is that a multi use pad. How is it in dusting. I keep seeing longer use pads making lots of dust.
RE10 is their most abrasive endurance pad. It’s going to dust like mad. I’m only concerned with stopping the car and not running out of pad.
There’s another pad from Brembo called the RS35 for around $450 but it’s also a track pad.
Since you are serious about tracking your car, perhaps you should consider MOV’IT as well.
Very popular in Germany, where people go to the Nurburgring every weekend 
I believe it. I wanted to try and “all Brembo” setup to see what their best offering is.
Damn, that’s a lot of coin.
Then again, I went through half a set of xp20’s in a 2 day DE where I was really hammering the car. The pad that wore down more was on the front left (the difference in wear was actually significant), I do most braking in straight line, doubt it is due to excessive trail braking or other situation where the front left brakes would be doing more work due to my inputs. Wondering if ESC played a part in wearing down that pad (I drive the car with ESC in sport mode).
Might consider an endurance pad next, or get xp24’s. I believe a set is around 300 for the ST-60, so not horrible but not that great if they go after 2 DE’s. Not to mention the heat rejection will be worse as the pad slims down.
So you are getting the Brembo GT-R kit with 355 mm discs?
I would get drilled rotors if the holes are cast.
Slotted rotors have no real benefits, contrary to popular belief.
EDIT: Slotted rotors have no real beits -> no real benefits
Hmm? I wonder why this site isn’t allowing me to type
b e n e f i t s
I’m going to stick with the 380mm. After looking at both M3’s, what Porsche uses for much lighter cars, and what the new high end Mustangs and american muscle cars are using 380mm is the only game in town. I’m going to stay slotted to keep that thermal mass. I don’t need 5 pounds drilled out of it. I’ll post up pics of the AP Racing and you’ll see how many surface cracks develop. They’d become real problems in a drilled setup but they’re no issue at all in slotted.
When I wear these rotors out in a couple of years I’ll switch to the Brembo type 3 rotor.
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355mm rotors are a better choice for the track. 380mm limits your choice for R-comp tires. There’s no need to pay attention to what car manufacturers are doing… there’s very little substance behind their hardware choice.
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Cracks develop due to poor heat dissipation, usage beyond rotor lifespan, choice of pad and rotor material. Not because they are drilled. Did you use brake ducts with your AP setup?
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Speaking of thermal mass, the rotor height is too narrow in the pic you’ve shown (probably 55-60mm, you want 65+mm)
I don’t have an existing collection of 18" wheels that I have to use. All of the new tire tech is in 19" and 20" sizes, like Pilot Sport Cup 2 I’m running which they don’t even make in 18". I like this tire because it’s good enough for the 991 GT3 and the Porsche 918 supercar. If I get a second set of wheels they’ll be winters for Tahoe, and I’d go 235/40R19 Michelin Pilot Alpin PA4 N-Spec Blackwall Directional N0(Porsche) 92V.
We all run slotted or some other pattern like J-hook.
The pic of the Type 3 rotor was just to show the pattern. The rotor width is 32mm for the S4, though the new AP Racing Radical uses a 34mm. You pay about a 2 pound weight penalty for 34mm but get much wider cooling vanes.
I’m not running brake cooling for lack of a good solution on the driver’s side, which has an auxiliary cooler behind the fog lamp.
I too have gotten away from cross drilled rotors due to cracks developing after a short round of abuse.
I’d believe using a less abrasive pad would reduce the heat but it’d also reduce my abilities to stop in the same fashion. I’ve also always gotten spectacular results with slotted and I’d be interested in J rotors.
I don’t think the pad material will change the heat, because you are converting mechanical energy into heat regardless…if you’ve stopped then that energy went somewhere.
Here’s a good technical paper written by a TRW engineer (presumably a car enthusiast doing this for a masters degree class) on rotor design and the effects of certain patterns on rotor failure. The conclusion is that certain patterns (slotted and drilled) help with brake performance, but drilled leads to more catastrophic cracking. Thus, a track rotor for anything other than a race car (where you frequently swap/replace parts) should not be drilled.
not sure how to get a better link format.
Nice! The type III rotor looks real nice.
Again, I only see weight disadvantages and no real be ne fits of running 19s over 18s, but I guess that is a matter of preference.
The 991 GT3 is all about cutting costs, and like I mentioned, you should look elsewhere for tips on how to upgrade your car. Porsche having the best brakes is a thing of the past. The GT3 caliper pistons aren’t even staggered anymore. Don’t get me started on the engine… lol
Question for you: Do you ever wonder why Porsche have always used drilled rotors, dating back to 993’s?
OK, 68mm ring height is good.
That’s why your rotors are cracking. The S4 is a heavy car and you will never realize the full potential of your brakes without ducts. If you are serious about tracking your car, it’s a must-have. You’ll have more braking power (for longer periods) and your pads/rotors will last longer,
Perhaps you can make something like this out of fiberlass and run it under the aux radiator.
You have gotten away from plain rotors that were drilled/machined, not rotors that were cast with holes in them from birth.
Very nice write-up for a college student, but it shows he knows nothing about the car industry.
The reason for the taper is to aid in distributing stress across the hole more so that stress raisers
or stress hotspots are reduced around the cross holes, as opposed to a sharp drill edge, so with
reducing the probability of crack initiation. Unfortunately, it seems as if all cross drilled rotors
are machined, as the name implies, hence further concern for hair line cracks and hot spots is
raised during machining. Claims have been made that some automotive companies such as
Porsche cast the cross holes into the rotor during the casting process. However, reviews and
discussions with some OEM brake rotor suppliers have lead to the belief that casting cross holes
is not likely in the industry since the price of such a rotor would be enormous compared to
current processes. Even producing a cast mold for such a part would be extremely difficult.
Better alternatives, such as carbon ceramic composite rotors, would be highly preferable since
the cost of production would be similar to that of casting holes into brake rotors. And the current
trend in brake rotor development shows support of the above claim. A later section will discuss
the future trends of rotor designs in the automotive industry further.
Uh…no. Factory Porsche rotors have cast holes, and that’s why they do not prematurely crack.
I can accept that the drilled holes do not cause the cracks. An 18 pound rotor will crack before a 26 pound rotor every day of the week. All rotors crack when they get thin enough and hot enough.
Yes, it is important to note that
- “drilled” holes are prone to cracking, cast holes are not.
- “drilled” rotors compromises the structural integrity. cast holes not so much (same as slotted tbh)
- Rotors that have cast holes are the most expensive (by car) rotors because molds aren’t cheap (so if you aren’t paying $1,000+ for a pair, chances are they are drilled/machined rotors, made in China)
- A well-ventilated 18 pound rotor will last longer than a poor-ventilated 26 pound rotor