Looks like I sold the stock lugs with the peelers. Going to go to the dealer tomorrow and get a new set. Looks like I need to retap all the Hubs, fronts are done.
Don’t go to the dealer man, just order some or go to a wheel shop.
Why do you need to re-tap anything?
I can call around I guess. I know its 14.1.5, are they 28mm long?
I guess when it hit the bearing it messed up the threads. I wasn’t able to get a single one in more than a few threads. The downside of using an impact even after hand threading.
So after calling around and sourcing ball seats I decided on double checking to make sure i needed ball seat. ECS says its conical. I’ll give it a shot again.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-Quattro-3.0T/Wheels/Aftermarket_Alloys/Alzor_Wheels/ES2652318/
What torque are you setting the lugs at?
Run in with impact until hub stops them torque…lol
Na I used an old milwalkee Nicad impact. I let it hit a few times and then torque to 100ft lbs. btw if anyone is interested a full set of bolts is in the $200 neighborhood at a dealer.
If you are not in a rush i have like 5 sets of audi lugs laying around.
Sshipping shouldnt matter since they can fit in a USPS flat rate box
^ that. I would send you a set as well if you want. My cars all have stud conversion. No need for the sets I have.
Haha!
I think torque specified for the B7-RS4 is 90ft-lbs. Same for B8-S4?
I know it isn’t a huge difference, but I would be trying to eliminate any possible problems if it were me.
Thanks for the offers guys, much appreciated.
Pretty sure its 90ft lbs for us too but for the speeds I do I like having the extra insurance. Gonna head down and finish up now.
Audi spec is 89 or 90 depending on the car (that’s what I’ve seen)
Same for the mk6 GTI according to the owner manual. Makes it easier come wheel swap time.
bolt torque has to do with metal type, thread pitch, diameter, etc.