So here’s a noob question that I’m curious about now. I understand the process of forged vs cast, but is forged lighter b/c the metal used weighs less comparatively to the molten metal poured into a cast? (Does the metal that is being poured into a cast need different impurities added for a more efficient melting point and/or casting process). I was under the impression that forged was more dense as well as more uniform. So typically, more dense = more weight.
I may be opening a can of worms about all the different metal forming processes, but my main knowledge of forged vs cast is golf clubs, where forged is best. I just always enjoy learning something new.
Saki, relax bud. All I’m getting at, is there’s no sense in saying the wheels are forged if nobody really knows for sure. We can make assumptions that they are, but that’s about it. For someone that is so particular about things(lets be honest, you like things proven and you like the facts) I just figured that you would know for a fact that the wheels were forged. That’s why I asked where you got your information from in the first place. I was trying to tap into your knowledge on the matter.
All good bro. Let’s get back on topic here. The wheels do look good, and your car looks fantastic as well…and yes I am jealous that you have nice Ti wheels.
From my understanding, the forging process makes metal more dense and as a result heavier. However because of it’s density, the object can be manufactured with less metal and still maintain it’s structrual integrity. That’s what makes it lighter.
its primarily more refined uniform crystal grain structure in forged materials… the grains will flow out along the shape of the part as its pressed whereas a cast piece the grains form based on cooling currents and are semi-random. Billet machined parts will have grains patterns like the billet but do not get the advantage of following the part shape.
I’m very relaxed. I’m just repeating what someone told me, and that someone is knowledgeable about the car. I really don’t care as I’ve said 3 times now. They’re light. They’re free. They fit. They look great. Good enough for me.
I’m not selling them. I’m not extolling their strength virtues and convincing anyone to buy the OEM RS4 wheels to buoy the market. I think as far as a ‘fact’ hunt goes, this is pretty supernumerary.
Good info and thanks. That’s kinda what I was going off of from my knowledge of cast vs forged, but didn’t know that about the billet machined parts. So really it just boils down to the forged being stronger and thus less material can be used for the same part when comparing to cast.
So, as previously discussed, I needed a set of winter wheels, and the weird fitment of the RS4 necessitated either an 8.5x18 ET20 or so wheel with a huge inner barrel to clear the calipers, or going 19. I just decided a second set of OEM RS4 wheels made the most sense. So I found this set of OEM 9x19 ET29 Titanium Package wheels and decided to buy them for my ‘summer’ wheel, and would use my OEM silver RS4 wheels for the winter. I’ve got a week with these Ti wheels on the car before they come off (wanted to test for balance/vibration etc.), so I snapped a couple of quick pics with the BlackBerry.
I think your car looks really sharp with ti package, ghetto or not looks good on avus. what do u think of just removing the rear badge. or removing and plasti dipping? that anthracite colour euro found looks great.
I think your car looks really sharp with ti package, ghetto or not looks good on avus. what do u think of just removing the rear badge. or removing and plasti dipping? that anthracite colour euro found looks great.
