Attached are logs of banks 003, 020, and 031. I don’t really know much about interpreting logs related to fuel trim so…
LOG-01-003-002-031.CSV (2.36 KB)
A few things to think about. The CM FLFW is a cheap and is prone to fail there was another member that had one of these on his car and he had bad timing issues as well his clutch masters clutch never held up and when he switched over to a Full JHM clutch and flywheel the issue went away . A third guy had same issues also fixed after his CM clutch failed to hold the power. I don’t know to say much past that. Maybe the harmonics are bad in what they sell.
Also didn’t you have a issue with you having a fault code for a knock sensor and the corresponding sensor was in a position that didn’t seem to match up?
Something is going on to have your car telling the request to go negative. I can tell you its going to have to be hardware related somewhere. Even with all the issues Ive seen with the CM units I don’t think this can all be attributed to that
I’m starting to believe that there has been some issues with this car going on for quite a while now. The only time I ever took it to the track (summer '09) I ran high 13’s and trapped IIRC ~100 mph. I didn’t think much of it at the time because my oem clutch was slipping so bad. And at that time I had the tune, pulley, intake spacers, FI downpipes/exhaust, etc. So for the moment I’m hoping I can rule out the clutch/lwfw.
The fault code I was getting over the summer was for knock sensor #1. (P0327 lower limit exceeded) I unplugged and cleaned the knock sensor connections and I haven’t had the code come back since then.
I would have to agree with you. There is something missing here.
The log you just posted didn’t look anything like the one Beemercer posted a graph of. Ill have to go back and look at that one. This log looks great. Looks like the ECU is doing very well. It just seems that the car isn’t doing what you want it to do. The acceleration on this log isn’t of what you would see with headers. I just loged my header car the other day and Im well faster then you.
Still most of your numbers look the same as mine. IE. Timing and fuel.
the RPM/second isn’t very strong. 525 avg from 2000-7000 is ok, but not for a full bolt ons car with headers. My B7 S4 with full 2.5 catless, a fresh tune (JHM updates the tune all the time so you want to make sure you have the most up to date one) in cold temps with 94 octane Sunoco pump was up around 550rpm/sec average.
Maybe i missed it, but can we clarify the conditions you logged in? You’re in Florida right?
octane
temperature/DA (if you know it)
So overall the logs of the fuel trim look ok? The temp when the logs were taken was about 40 degrees. Altitude is about sea level. Only 93 has ever gone into this car, and only from Shell, Exxon, Sunoco or BP. This particular tank was Exxon. For some reason all of the Sunoco stations near me stopped offering 94 so I never got the chance to run higher octane.
Would it be worth it do have a leak down/compression test done? Is it possible that any of this is related to timing components?
Even the other logs looked good. The ADTC note clearly isn’t the actual reading as the car would have performed much different and the logs would have shown up different.
Tune wise the car looks real strong. The headers and exhaust are doing there job. The correction levels are down and the car seems to be humming along. There is a little bit of a timing stumble but thats normal with a CM FW.
From a log output standard the car looks strong and looks like its running great. From a acceleration point of view the car seems to be down on its acceleration numbers. The header cars with your numbers are well faster then what your seeing.
Its always a good idea to do a leak down and comp test in situations like this. That would be a good place to start. While logs are always nice they are just putting you in a direction. Mechanically the car should have a once over as your definitively behind the point of where you should be per all the other cars with your mods.
Bump!
Having my car leakdown/compression tested within the next few days. Anything else I should check out/log while I’m doing this?
I’ll update the thread again once I have all the numbers
Looking forward to the results. Good luck man!
The comp tests and leak down tests should help uncover some answers
Yeah, I have a feeling everything will come back normal though. Sorry for the delayed update. I had a problem with shipping when I ordered the parts I needed for the test. Now that everything is here I should be able to provide an update tomorrow.
So I finally got a chance to compression test my motor yesterday. Here are the results:
Cyl #1: 165 psi
cyl #2: 166 psi
cyl #3: 155 psi
cyl #4: 168 psi
cyl #5: 161 psi
cyl #6: 157 psi
cyl #7: 159 psi
cyl #8: 162 psi
In retrospect I should’ve disconnected the air box elbow from the throttle body to make sure the TB plate was opening all the way. This is a dry test btw, from what I understand I shouldn’t need to do a wet test unless something looks suspicious. I could be wrong but it seems like everything is within spec for a motor with 71k. Keep in mind my motor burns very little oil ~1qt every 3k miles or so. If these numbers look horribly wrong I could always just run another test.
I attempted a leak down test but had trouble getting the motor to TDC. Is there an easier way other than rocking the car back and forth? There’s more than one bolt on the crank. Also my spark plugs had a little white residue on them, nothing major but more than I had expected. I did however change my fuel filter yesterday morning if that means anything.
^damn, very strong numbers, isn’t your car an 04? Yea id say you have no reason to do a leak own test. It’s nice to do while you’re in there, but mainly as a follow up when something looks off. People more so do dry and wet to see how things are sealing up, but with your numbers you should be strong either way.
that’s fantastic compression.
it’s also not even 1 bar between best and worst
yeah I wouldn’t worry about the leakdown test, its mostly for if the dry numbers are bad to try and diagnose further
Yup, car’s an 04. Previous owner was very meticulous about maintenance/oil changes and so am I. I think the longest I’ve ever gone without fresh oil is ~7k miles.
So the motor’s “healthy” but the rpm/sec are still very very slow…where do I go from here? ???
Let’s assume the motor is fine, What about outside of the motor? Like a bad bearing somewhere in the driveline slowing things down. I know that’s a long shot since it woudl likely have other symptoms, but it’s something to think about.
Dragging a brake?
Def not a dragging brake. I had the car on a lift last weekend when I was changing my fuel filter–all wheels spun freely. Can’t think of any bearing that would be bad either. So I know that I’ve had this problem back when I had the tune, FI dp/cb combo, pulley, and intake spacers. Tyrol Sport in nyc did installed those parts years ago when I first got the car. I’m wondering now if they screwed something up?
I think next I’m going to put the stock pulley back on, run some logs and see what happens.
when you logged the car, what were the conditions? I can’t remember…
also have you re-logged the car since?
air filter, fuel filter, plugs, coils…all good?
Did you log timing retardation (20-21)?
The logs that I posted earlier in the thread were taken when it was about 40 degrees outside. The road is within 100ft of sea level. These were the blocks I measured:
003, 020, 026
003, 021, 027
003, 020, 031 (fuel trim logs are a little farther down on the first page)
Haven’t taken any logs since then, can probably take some later in the week when I have more free time. Air filter was changed a few thousand miles ago along with spark plugs–Bosch 4417. Fuel filter I changed last weekend, the old one had probably ~15-20k miles on it. The outdated coils were replaced via the recall a while ago. Car runs like a top otherwise, no misfires or anything.