Bump!
Having my car leakdown/compression tested within the next few days. Anything else I should check out/log while I’m doing this?
I’ll update the thread again once I have all the numbers
Looking forward to the results. Good luck man!
The comp tests and leak down tests should help uncover some answers
Yeah, I have a feeling everything will come back normal though. Sorry for the delayed update. I had a problem with shipping when I ordered the parts I needed for the test. Now that everything is here I should be able to provide an update tomorrow.
So I finally got a chance to compression test my motor yesterday. Here are the results:
Cyl #1: 165 psi
cyl #2: 166 psi
cyl #3: 155 psi
cyl #4: 168 psi
cyl #5: 161 psi
cyl #6: 157 psi
cyl #7: 159 psi
cyl #8: 162 psi
In retrospect I should’ve disconnected the air box elbow from the throttle body to make sure the TB plate was opening all the way. This is a dry test btw, from what I understand I shouldn’t need to do a wet test unless something looks suspicious. I could be wrong but it seems like everything is within spec for a motor with 71k. Keep in mind my motor burns very little oil ~1qt every 3k miles or so. If these numbers look horribly wrong I could always just run another test.
I attempted a leak down test but had trouble getting the motor to TDC. Is there an easier way other than rocking the car back and forth? There’s more than one bolt on the crank. Also my spark plugs had a little white residue on them, nothing major but more than I had expected. I did however change my fuel filter yesterday morning if that means anything.
^damn, very strong numbers, isn’t your car an 04? Yea id say you have no reason to do a leak own test. It’s nice to do while you’re in there, but mainly as a follow up when something looks off. People more so do dry and wet to see how things are sealing up, but with your numbers you should be strong either way.
that’s fantastic compression.
it’s also not even 1 bar between best and worst
yeah I wouldn’t worry about the leakdown test, its mostly for if the dry numbers are bad to try and diagnose further
Yup, car’s an 04. Previous owner was very meticulous about maintenance/oil changes and so am I. I think the longest I’ve ever gone without fresh oil is ~7k miles.
So the motor’s “healthy” but the rpm/sec are still very very slow…where do I go from here? ???
Let’s assume the motor is fine, What about outside of the motor? Like a bad bearing somewhere in the driveline slowing things down. I know that’s a long shot since it woudl likely have other symptoms, but it’s something to think about.
Dragging a brake?
Def not a dragging brake. I had the car on a lift last weekend when I was changing my fuel filter–all wheels spun freely. Can’t think of any bearing that would be bad either. So I know that I’ve had this problem back when I had the tune, FI dp/cb combo, pulley, and intake spacers. Tyrol Sport in nyc did installed those parts years ago when I first got the car. I’m wondering now if they screwed something up?
I think next I’m going to put the stock pulley back on, run some logs and see what happens.
when you logged the car, what were the conditions? I can’t remember…
also have you re-logged the car since?
air filter, fuel filter, plugs, coils…all good?
Did you log timing retardation (20-21)?
The logs that I posted earlier in the thread were taken when it was about 40 degrees outside. The road is within 100ft of sea level. These were the blocks I measured:
003, 020, 026
003, 021, 027
003, 020, 031 (fuel trim logs are a little farther down on the first page)
Haven’t taken any logs since then, can probably take some later in the week when I have more free time. Air filter was changed a few thousand miles ago along with spark plugs–Bosch 4417. Fuel filter I changed last weekend, the old one had probably ~15-20k miles on it. The outdated coils were replaced via the recall a while ago. Car runs like a top otherwise, no misfires or anything.
Check out your timing. Is your tune an old ass version?
also your net timing (timing - avg retardation) is as follows from 1400-6800
[quote][b]NET TIMING
13.5 (2000 RPM)
20.6 (4720 RPM)
23.45 (6600 RPM)[/b]
[/quote]
By contrast my car on 94 octane in cold weather around 0 density altitude with an updated JHM tune and 2.5" catless + 2.5" fast intentions + LW rotors etc.
19.5 (2040 RPM) +6.00
27.5 (4680 RPM) +6.90
30.6 (6680 RPM +7.15
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/lulz101/LOG%20IMAGES/Mar182011SakimanoJHM93.jpg
My tune was updated with the header file Jan 2011 right before JHM released the revision with LA. Count told me that the software is fine and that I have a hardware issue somewhere. I know that I’ve had this problem since before my header/clutch install so at this point I’m just trying to figure out what it could be.
I’m completely stumped. 
Finally got some free time to work on the car, got a pretty big update here.
So I took some logs today before I put my stock crank pulley back on. From what I can tell it looks like its running a little bit stronger but more or less the same. I attached the logs to the bottom of the post.
So when I dropped the front end forward to start unbolting the JHM pulley I noticed something didn’t look right… My pulley is cracked in two places!! :o Good thing I decided to swap the old one back in for some testing otherwise this could’ve caused some pretty nasty damage. No idea how it happened, or when. Last time I swapped my serpentine belt was around this time last year, and I didn’t notice any damage at all. A couple months before that was when my motor was out and I know it was definitely not damaged then either. Unless of course it started fracturing from the back of the pulley and I just never noticed?? Also noticed my oil pan gasket has a slight leak, and my valve cover gaskets have a very slight weep along the cam seals.
Any idea how the pulley could have cracked like this?
Anyway, pics:
http://i40.tinypic.com/15i71aq.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/2rm2r2x.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/35klx75.jpg
Going to put the stock pulley back on and take some logs of: 003,020,026 and 003,021,027. Any other blocks I should take a look at? I’ll post another update later on tonight/tomorrow
LOG-01-020-023-026.CSV (2.58 KB)
LOG-01-003-021-027.CSV (2.82 KB)
IS the crack all thw way athrew.
If you had the motor out there is a good chance you might have hit it doing the pull. Something like that isn’t going to be from general ware and tare.
Changing the crank pulley isn’t going to help the logs look no different when you really look at them. Its the same. So its clear this wasn’t doing anything to be atrubted to your issue. I would send it in to JHM for a warranty swap.
After 20k my pulley just inspected is solid and from knowing the structure support area something would have had to most likely hit the top part of the pulley to crack the foundation like that.
that’s weird…haven’t seen that before
mine looked perfect after about 30,000 miles. How many are on yours?
The crack definitely isn’t from a design flaw, just not sure how it could have happened–it goes all the way through. It wasn’t cracked when I reinstalled the motor and when I had a belt pop off about a month later I don’t remember seeing any damage either. This pulley has 30-35k miles on it…Would something like this really be covered under warranty?
At this point I don’t really know what could be causing my logs to look so out of whack. I figured I would try just for the hell of it at this point.
very interesting, it sucks when you find broken shit (trust me I’ve had it happen a lot with the A6)… definitely send it to JHM so they can test it and make sure the metallugry is good