Is this repairable?

That’s probably one reason to do it, but the more common reason is to simplify the oiling system to increase reliability. The balance shafts are there to cancel out vibrations from the engine. They do this by spinning at twice the speed of the crank. When you’re revving to 7.5k like a lot of us with built motors are, those big lumps of metal are spinning at 15k. There have been a few cases of them seizing and causing problems like in this engine. I’m not sure if they seize on their own or if that is a result of something else such as the oil pump drive chain snapping. Either one will cause the other, so there is no way to tell which happened first.

By removing the balance shaft assembly, you also gain ~2 liters of oil capacity IIRC. The only real cons to doing the 1.8 conversion is the cost of parts and a marginal increase in NVH. Some people have had oil pressure issues with the conversion (Mec wiped a main bearing) but others have been successful. I’m not sure what the cause of that is. I decided that I wasn’t willing to get experimental with an engine I just spent nearly $6k building. Maybe I’ll consider it down the road though.

^^ paragraphs needed :slight_smile:


As suspected, here’s the broken oil pump drive chain

#3 main bearing was the only bearing to show any damage.

Everything else on the crank looks good. I think I’m going to bring it to the machine shop and get it checked out and polished up before trying to sell it.

Take this comment with a grain of salt and please correct me if I am wrong since I inly look at this briefly.
The way I see it the only reason the 1.8 oil pump conversion would fail is when drilling through the block, this has to be extremely well measured and done to creat a proper New flow, no?
But Is it worth the risk, For 2hp?

It’s been a while sine I’ve read up on it, but I remember there being some blocks that did not need any drilling.

Good information have you ever done this mod.

For as far as I understood aluthman this was required on every FSI block. But like I said I looked at it briefly. My FSI is still in crawling steps to becoming a stage 3, which is when I plan on stripping down to a bare block to build from ground up and I look at this mod. So to answer also at Justin question, no I have not performed this myself.
All my info is based on reading online, hence why: take it with a grain of salt lol

Put this question up on vendorzine or any of the mkv or a3/a4 forums and see what it fishes… Sometimes you do get lucky to hear someone out there that actually know what they are talking about - they are probably from here lmao.

With all that said, hence the technical involvement this would take and the budget involved to get a reputable shop that would know how to do this, I would second though this mod (that’s what I did for me stage 3 project)
Is this block gonna be used for a racing purpose, maybe I would invest in this. For me, spirited drivers/weekend warriors I didn’t see the investment worth the return.
My 2c

Also please note I only researched info for this on a 2.0 FSI. Maybe it’s a different info for tsi engines.

(Sorry for all the bad English on my posts, typing on the phone while working is always a pain lol)

According to the FAQ on IE’s crank girlde kit (which includes the oil pump conversion), some blocks are already drilled. It’s a mounting bolt hole that may need to be drilled for the oil pump chain tensioner.

You live and you learn. I didn’t look at the IE girdle + pump.
I was basing all my research on the usp Motorsport kit only. Since it was the only 1.8t oil pump conversion I found.
Man… Now you put that back in my head! Lol

I came across this when I was doing research and now reading it again some people even had some of the same problems you had, scaring and marks on the crankshaft and what not. But overall it’s still a “don’t make much a difference” across the board. But again, I guess because these engines are not being used for a very specific purpose like racing.

Isn’t the whole purpose of your rebuild though for resale? I can see how this will be cost effect bearing in mind the cost of a Oem pump and shaft, but how to explain the person you selling the engine to, you need an extra quart of oil?

I guess I never said it, but I am parting out this motor instead of rebuilding it. The block is 100% fine as are some small things like intake mani, oil pan, timing chain cover, and injectors. The crank should be fine after getting the journals polished.

Thats a whole different game. Then you are just fine, you definitely got your money’s worth.

Can you pm me a photo of the coolant flange on that engine?
Mine broke the tabs for the vacuum line that runs to the brake booster and eventually I will replace it. If you have it there I will snatch it from you.

The coolant flange was gone when I got the engine. Are to referring to the plastic nipple on the vacuum pump?

This is the guy. So basically it’s routed from the vacuum pump you showed, through the valve, down to this coolant flange (thin nipples) to the brake booster.
Such a poor design from Audi imho. A simple vacuum line from that valve to the booster and all my rough idle problems I chased for almost a year were gone…

What kind of rough idle problems did you have? I occasionally get light surging in vacuum (as shown on boost gauge) while rpms seem to remain pretty constant. Maybe this is my issue also.

I was getting a slight rpm raise (about 500 rpms) only after engine was warm and very sporadic. I did notice a small boost surge but it was accompanied by the rpm.
Also boost would not go over 15 psi (stage 2 tune on a k03)

My whole going through to find was the obvious smoke test, pressure test blah blah, everything was fine.
Than I started replacing everything till I went to replace that valve and when I went to unhook it from the flange the nipple came out with the whose. Same thing with the side that connects to the brake booster.

To bypass, cut the line that goes down towards flange out of the barf on the valve, attach a new vacuum hose (if memory serves me right the Inner diameter of the hose is 3/8") and connect to the barf on the brake booster nipple. I used some hose clamps in the ends just to make sure it didn’t come off from it and I routed the hose the same “length” as originally, so it goes down to the flange and up but its bypassing it.

Sorry posted the same image twice.

Also. Rpm would go up by 600-1000rpm when pressing the brake pedal hard while idling. (Pumping them)

That’s how I started looking into those hoses.