honestly dude, not everyone needs to contribute. Some of us like to just lay low and become educated, without racking up 4 thousand posts. I have no problem leaving the tech to people who know far more than me. It just seems like recently, any posts here that begin as informative or entertaining, quickly break down into the same 6 people talking the same repetitive shit to each other ad nauseum. It’s getting more and more difficult to weed through that crap to find the good stuff.
You could always weed through AudiZine? I can’t post there so I am sure you love that. Neither can snow trooper.
I love how you post that you don’t contribute anything but like to sponge info…then complain about it not being to your liking.
You are like the guy who complains about his food not being good enough and sends it back…at a dinner party at a neighbor’s house!
If you do go back to AudiZine and stay there I guess you won’t be missed…since I can’t think of anything you have ever posted here or there, other than these here complaints. I don’t even know what car you own.
Been there done that. Came here because the info was better.
Honestly, i wasn’t referring to you or snowtrooper when i made my initial comment. You guys are definitely among the bright spots, and from your posts i have learned much. I cant help it if that’s how you took it though. And as far as just being a sponge, hey, that’s why I’m here, I didn’t realize that you weren’t allowed in if you weren’t going to post a whole ton. You don’t know what car i have, because i don’t have one. I came here (and previously to other sites) to learn as much as possible and educate myself about these cars before i made a purchase. I was about to pull the trigger earlier this summer on a B7S4, but life got in the way and i bought a house with the $$ instead. So here i am, still with no car :-[, but still with a desire to learn as much as possible about them before I possibly make another purchase in the future. If that still offends you, hey, what can i do. In the mean time, I’ll just keep my no-post having, no-car owning opinion to myself, so as not to offend your delicate sensibilities.
Well, you did reference my post count, so I’m not sure why you’re now saying you weren’t referring to me. But fair enough, could have been a coincidence.
In any event, you are certainly allowed to sponge and read…and you are certainly allowed to complain about things. Just don’t be shocked when someone (or a bunch of people) tell you to fuck off if they think you’re being a complainer/whiner without contributing. That’s what happened here. No big thing.
Haha wow this thread got a little off topic! Here is some more info we posted about our cars setup and the turbos:
[quote]Sorry for the delay on getting in here and chiming in on my 7+ years of personal experience with the B5 S4 (including my blue one featured here) and different turbo options. I also wanted to let everyone know the setup on my car as well even though we freely tell anyone who emails or calls about it.
I have driven, drag raced and installed most of the turbo setups out there, including but not limited to (K03s, K04s, RS6s, JHM RS6-Rs and GT28s). Based off of my experiences we really wanted to get the RS6s we loved so much to market in a cost effective way than chopped up OEM ones that BW won’t warranty. The RS6-R has been conceptualized since 2009 for us and now we have them to market for this exact reason. We always loved K04s for the massive hit at 3000 to 3500rpm and I had them on my car for years. I was never a fan of the GT28 cars or similar large turbo setups due to the lack of torque and light to light power. They really don’t shine until 80mph plus so they just aren’t a great setup on a street driven full weight car. They are a pain to get through the 1/8 mile of a quarter mile and make up their ground on the big end of the track so that is why you don’t see many impressive times with them on street cars. Dan here at JHM had a pair of GT28s on his old 2000 S4 for a couple years, but he got rid of them and put on RS6s once he had driven in a couple customers RS6 powered cars and my RS6 powered car (before it got our RS6-Rs) (he bought this car in 2003 and sold it recently around 2010). Based on these experiences with Dans GT car and a few others plus all the K04 cars we have done we just really loved how the RS6s bridged the gap since the first set we did back in 2008. This is why when I first put my built motor together I went with RS6s. The biggest problem with RS6s is all the modifications and thus voiding the warranty with BW made them great performance wise but hard on the wallet (usually in the $3300 to $3600 range). So the biggest reason for us to make the RS6-R was to get the price down to OEM BW K04 levels with inlets and hardware. Obviously we wanted to improve on them as well to get some more top end power, make them more durable and spool the same as OEM RS6s.
Hopefully that rambling brain dump will help people make their decision about what turbo they want to go with it, whether it be our JHM RS6-Rs, K04s, or bigger GT28 or similar large turbo setups.
So more on my Nogaro S4s current setup. I will be just listing parts and in what year I recall they were installed (as accurate as I can off memory since I built the motor about 3 plus years ago and not on all items). 2005 will be the earliest since that is when I bought the car. It is still my original motor block bored .5mm over to a 2.8l. You will notice that I try to keep things cost effective and simple based on what I have learned hands on during my 20 years of automotive experience. Some times money can be wasted on going overkill for a given setup. I have 20k miles on this motor with tons of abuse, some evidenced by the videos we share. Plus Dan here drove it to Wuste and back this June plus a bunch of other trips we all take it on. I only replaced my valve springs since my motor had 125k miles at the time of the teardown and I knew i would be revving it to the 7500 to 7750 rpm range. I knew that stock springs held up well from beating on Dan’s GT car with 165k miles on stock springs and getting it over 8000rpm. Street driven I knew my rpm would rarely go over 7000 rpm since 91 octane hates boost and rpm. So I knew OEM springs would work when I put race gas in it at went to around 7500rpm. Also if a part is left out I most likely reused the factory used stuff (for example I reused my stock lifters, stock retainers and stock valve keepers on my heads)
Engine stuff
-JHM RS6-R turbos -> HERE - 2011
-Junkyard 2.8l Heads (ATQ code from a passat)- I think I paid around $350 back in 2009 for the pair. These are also unported and only have a standard 3 angle valve job. - 2009
-Reground intake valves from the 2.8l heads - 2009
-New replacement Osvat Exhaust valves -> HERE - we do carry the same brand intake valves as well and obviously based on my experience they hold up well. - 2009
-New OEM exhaust valve springs -> HERE - 2009
-New OEM intake valve springs -> HERE - 2009
-My original block bored .5mm over to 2.8l sizing
-JE 9:1 pistons that I had thermal coating on the domes and friction coating on the skirts done after I purchased them -> HERE - 2009
-Pauter rods -> HERE - 2009
-034 coated rod bearings -> HERE - 2009
-034 coated main bearings -> HERE - 2009
-Glyco thrust bearings -> HERE - 2009
-Victor Reinz head gasket set (2 needed - 1 per head) -> HERE - 2009
-Raceware Head Stud kit -> HERE - 2009
-Raceware Main Stud kit -> HERE We now carry the lower cost ARP Main Stud kit assembled by 034 that is just as good as this kit for less money -> HERE - 2009
-034 Track Density Motor mounts -> HERE - 2008
-034 Track Density Trans mounts -> HERE - 2008
-034 snub bracket and mount with JHM spacer kit -> HERE
-JHM DTS bar -> HERE - 2009
-JHM Boost Gauge -> HERE - 2009
-OEM RS4 intake cams - 2005
-OEM RS4 intake manifold -> HERE - 2005
-OEM RS4 T-body and Bi-pipes - 2005
-JHM RS6-R fueling kit with OEM RS4 airbox and JHM 90mm plastic MAF (more info on this later) - 2009 for most of the parts except for an injector and fuel pump change last year.
-JHM in car MBC -> HERE will be in fueling kit - 2008
-Bosch heat range 5 tri-electrode spark plugs -> HERE will be in fuel kit - 2010
-JHM custom 3" downpipes - 2007
-JHM custom 4" cat back and 3" catless midpipes - 2008
NOTES on data I collected about the rods and pistons and why I went with them. Lower rotating mass is easier on the bearings, helps reduce cylinder wall scuffing and frees up a little HP the higher you rev it.
All specs in grams
**Rods
Stock 2.7t = 576 total. 416 big end. 160 small end.
Pauter = 551 total. 375 big end. 176 small end. (25 grams less than stock) -
Integrated Engineering= 587 total. 407 big end. 180 small end. (12 grams more than stock)
**Pistons w pins
Stock 2.7t 81mm bore = 407
JE 2.7t 81.5mm bore = 388 (19 grams less than stock) (this is with a friction coating on the skirts and thermal coating on the dome, a stock sized piston would be even lighter)
Total weight loss per rod and piston with my motor = 44 grams eacj
Trans stuff
JHM Stage 4 clutch and flywheel combo -> HERE - 2010
JHM trio package -> HERE - 2006
JHM cross rod - > HERE - 2009
JHM shift knob -> HERE
JHM Rebuilt trans with Updated 1-2 shift collar - First done in 2005 and then in 2011 we went through it again to make sure we were good to go for running 10s especially after 6 years of product R and D with the car and many video appearances. So it got some love in 2011.
JHM 4:1 diff -> HERE
Car and Misc
Weight reduction = Wheels - Volk. I have JHM front and rear bbks but they are only a few pounds lighter than stock due to the larger than stock rotors.
I had the stock hood back on it and a stock battery(added back to the car in 2011) and everything else in the car like I always have since the day I bought the car in 2005.
JHM front bbk 350mm kit -> HERE
JHM rear bbk 300mm kit -> HERE
Hankook V12 225/40/18 street tires
Misc Info about the 10.8 pass
I ran C16 race gas like I always have since 2007. I used to run 110. I like the C16 since I don’t have to be as picky about getting every last ounce of pump gas out of the car.
I know I probably forgot a few things. I will do my best to update this post (here and on the second post of this thread) as I recall more specs. Also if you see any years for a part that are prior to when we released a product. Keep in mind I have prototypes on my cars 6 months to 1 or more years on my car for testing and sometimes due to the delay of getting the manufacturing down and getting them to market. Also please let me know if any links don’t work. This was a tedious thread to put together and I know I goofed something.
Thanks again everyone for the years of support, we plan on continuing to support you because your support of us.
[/quote]
He drove to Milan (90 minutes), and they had closed early for the night. Brutal.
He went in and begged them to let him make some passes and they said he could do 2, hot lapping, right now. No cool down lol. It was high 80s out, high humidity, DA up near 2500 feet. So he made the passes, bogged both launches pretty badly, and still trapped 122-123 MPH with a pump gas file and around 98 octane mix in the tank to try to help the engine not pull timing. I believe his ET was 12.1
The video was pretty funny…he was in his nice work clothes. He tried to launch off around 4000 RPM but with it being warm, and with him having big 245 tires on the car, it just didn’t go, it grabbed, bogged, and then he sat there rolling through the RPMs for a good while until he hit boost. It was not pretty. He was going to go back with some more appropriate sized wheels/tires (225 I think) and launch from bigger RPMs. I reckon the car will run 11.7 @ 124 or thereabouts with a good launch, and maybe more with better temperatures. JHM won’t give him a tune that will push it too much do to his limited modlist I don’t reckon, so it will be interesting to see what he can do.
As you can see, the first gear just kiled him. After that the car did well. 1/4 - 1.8 = 4.07…which is superfast for a car that just ran 12.1, so it’s indicative of the fact that he left a boatload on the table. Also a car that is running well should be 1.55x it’s 1/8 mile time in the 1/4. His 1/8 was 8.09, so that should have been a 12.54…but the slip above was 12.16. So you can see the first part of the track he sucked due to the launch. The 2.02 60 foot is the first clue…but not only that because the 330 foot time was crap at 5.44 (My RS4’s best was 5.31…and it’s a high 12 second car). This car should be threatening 4 seconds through 330 feet if it’s able to trap in the 120s. I am sure it will once he gets more than 2 hotlapped launches to dial in his best lol.
All true. I think the 60ft might have been worse. The car launched fell on its face and didn’t start to get under boost till about the top of first.
The car isn’t on some race tune. Its a single digit timing table max timing is about 18. The spool is slowed down to not spool till 4000 apposed to 3500
This in a car that weight is close to 200lbs more then a sedan. Rim weight is more then stock.
lets be clear on the goal here.
While other companys or people go to the track in all out race mode looking to set a unreal time for what the general public would see on a day to day usage. This was a exercise out of pure circumstance. Lets run the car like normal people would. No all out race gas no gutted car. Just make the most of the two passes. I might add that this is the first time he launched the car, as well as the first time he drove the car at the track. So no fancy race driver no set up. Just blast and see.
We wanted 125 but settled for 123. Take out the 2500 DA and the 2.1 60 and we well see… for now we will take it and go from there.
This isn’t earth shattering at first glance. Still when you look closer.
This is actually quite impressive. Or so I see it. Here is why.
This crushes the “too driver dependent” theory. While I fully believe that a stronger 60foot better fuel DA and temps will result in much better results. This showcases something that bad driving or noob driving still shows. Even a bad driver can’t not do well if you have real performance.
034 on race gas, better DA, car on weight reduction with one of there own employees; was 5mph slower.
This is a higher MPH then 98% of all the cars ko4 cars 87% of the RS6 cars and 50% of the Tial cars listed on the
For the record he is a good driver. He just launched from too low an rpm level because he had never made a pass in the car and wasn’t sure what would work. If they hadn’t closed early he would have arrived, let the car cool down nicely, got all his crap out of the car, made half a dozen passes over the next four hours in much cooker temps and dialed in his best launch rpm.
Anyway enough excuses lol. He will go back shortly for sure. Plus he will be running with us in a big group in October.
No offense to hunters car but I love that he can never break 12s. His sisters camaro SS with long tubes and cam 12 sec car. His 335xi full bolt ons ect 12 sec car. His brothers silver rs6/k04 car 12 sec car. His supercharged and cammed Trailblazer SS 12 sec car. And now his S4 12 sec car!!!1