I got my analysis back last week for 45k miles.
Curious what brand of oil you are using? The oil in this engine was done back in October at a Porsche dealer in Oklahoma so I’m not sure what oil they used or the exact mileage. Looks like most of the wear components of our two engines are fairly similar, oil additives are different for sure, your Titanium is up there and nothing in the oil that was in this engine. I will be swapping this engine to a Boutique oil I use in my RS6 which at 75k and putting out 550bhp and 550 lb/ft of Torque shows less wear components than either one of our two analysis here. It is a custom 7.5w40 oil, from a place known as BND Automotive.
I’ll probably pull the engine in the next couple of weeks, get the new bearings in and then hopefully within the next month or so get it in my car. We’ll see what my oil analysis looks like, BND oils and see if the breakin of the new rod bearing show anything in the analysis. Ordered the rest of the Rod Bearings today, guess I need to order some plastigauge too. I’m probably also going to swap from the OEM Rod bolts to a set from ARP.
I use Castrol 0w-40 European. I really like the oil and have used it in all my turbo BMW’s and now the RS5. I’m very interested in that special blend.
One I posted on RS6.com years ago. I had done a few changes and they all came back so low in wear metals that I started stretching the intervals to see what would happen. But I do think the C5 RS6 motor is one helluva design. Enough that they used it in the Gumper Apollo Supercar with Bigger Turbos and boosted it to just under 800bhp.
Well, got the 27k engine & tranny out of the car. Gonna split them and start stripping the engine for the JHM parts, Headers, LWCP, LW DSG Flywheel, Intake Cooling mod removal. Already have a 25k transmission so I’ll be selling the 27k DSG (NSD Coded). Should have a lot of RS5 parts available, may keep some spares for my car or upgrade stuff for my S5.
Sad to pull the engine/tranny out of a car with no serious damage, frame is in great shape. Almost makes me want to find another engine to drop into it but too many other projects, it’ll get parted out I guess.
Still planning to flip the engine on a stand and install new “King” Rod bearings. I’ll advise how the 27k bearings look, even with a good Oil analysis we’ll see if there is much visual wear on the bearings.
Are you selling any of the mods or just putting them on the new engine?
Removing them off the old engine (only put 300 mi on it) and installing them on the newer engine. Lots of other parts from the 2013 parts car. Car was not highly optioned though.
Would you hammer an easyout (counter clockwise screw) into the stuck (and broken off) bleeder valve or let it sit?
I am using phosphoric acid to cut in to the tread a bit but probably too cold for it to work and taking turns with wd40 and the hydrocarbon rust spray; Thinking it might be dirt in the tread and maybe moisture.
The bleeder valve seems soft feels like the caliper tread might not get damaged if I did hammer it in.
Sry should have answered this comment on the other thread.
The mechanic gave up after welding on a nut and doing heating and cooling cycles. They clearly don’t want to ruin the brembos given one will set us back 500-700. If someone has one for sale?
It’s not noticeable the one thing is the breaking power maybe could be better. I read brake systems might not get air in until at least the pads are a bit more worn. Don’t remember if there were any bubbles coming from the other front bleeder valves last time. Also in Mr apefactorys demo video wasn’t any
Well, I finally got around to removing the upper and lower oil pans on my 27k motor and good news. Along with the good Blackstone Oil analysis, I pulled off #7 rod cap (should’ve pulled off #4 or #8) and the bearing looked almost but not quite new. I’m still gonna pull all the rest and go ahead and install the set of King Bearings along with a set or ARP rod bolts, I will double check clearances with Plastigauge and instead of Torquing I will use my new shiny Rod Bolt stretch measuring tool.
Posting these picture here of the Rod bearings pulled from the 27k motor, once again the Blackstone Oil analysis came back good so I would say this is normal for an RS5 at this mileage. The top row are the upper bearings that show a little more wear than the lower.
That doesn’t look too bad but I’d wish it was better at 27k miles. I’ll be at 50k in the next month and I drive it like I stole it. Those clearances you found were definitely on the skinny side and worry me a little. Did you end up getting more clearance data?
Specs for the Conrods clearances are:
New: 0.020 … 0.069 mm.
• Wear limit: 0.120 mm.
Strange but talk about consistency, all 8 Conrods with the new bearings pretty much spec’d at 0.051mm plus or minus 1 or 2 thousandths. Waiting on my new Snapon 3/8" drive digital Torque wrench that also does degrees so there is no guessing and I will get them Torqued to the final specs.
That’s wonderful
Also throwing on my reason for the new Snapon wrench. I did buy a nice bolt stretch gauge that I’m going to use but I’m not using my new ARP rod bolts. ARP and pretty much every engine builder says if you are using any aftermarket bolts that are supposed to be stronger, which ARP definitely are, you would then need to resize your Rod big ends. That would necessitate the Rods being out of the engine. So I purchased a new set of OEM Rod bolts that just arrived today, along with the new King Rod XPC rod bearings.
Another sad RS5 CFSA story. Don’t know all of the details but the user and I have spoken by PM. Sounds like a Rod bearing for sure to me. Don’t know all of the details as far as mileage, Oil change intervals, type of oil, cleanliness, etc…
Sheesh. I run mine hard as hell too. I’ll be switching to 3000 mile oil changes I guess. If mine ever blows up I’m 4.0tt swapping it or selling it.
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From many oil analysis I’ve seen I think with a top quality oil your good to about 5~6k miles. An oil analysis will really tell you how your oil is doing and whether you should change it more often or if you can run it a little longer and it’s fairly cheap.
I am wondering what role or to what proportion unburnt fuel contamination plays in the engine failures and early camchain wear. Was considering the HPFP (high pressure fuel pumps) as there are accounts of those (sometimes catastrophic) and I thought the oil smelled a bit much of fuel as I last changed. My over consumption of fuel compared to previously has, however, been constant for 4-5 years and the same for the oil consumption. Fortunately, now olcheck oil lab is back (in EU) so can be tested at next change. Judging from the state of the oil, as I can measure, I definitely second the idea of 4000 or so mile oil changes or at least once a year.