OEM RS4 clutch..

yeah I realize that, but I’m pointing out that JHM may have certain items produced to a JHM specification by ACT or other manufacturers. They may own those specs and the stuff ACT advertises for the B7 RS4 may look IDENTICAL, but may not be the SAME.

I don’t think anyone is hiding anything. People are pretending like JHM is saying they make these PPs in house or something. JHM said that they designed and tested the R series kit…they don’t manufacture any of the parts…so why people care is beyond me.

Saki said it best, if it is indeed an ACT PP you can cheap out for $50 and buy it direct…or possibly make a $2000 mistake hoping that the ACT product is indeed identical to JHM. Also, I’d prefer to buy a kit designed and tested together rather than piece together something and be a guinea pig. That is what I don’t understand…who cares. It really boils down to trolls starting issues.

None of these companies claim to make their clutch kits in house JHM (Luk OEM, 034, ACT??), APR (SOuthbend/DXD), Amviva (Luk). They out source the manufacturing process.

Bummer about it being first run, but at least you were prepared and even better is the fact that JHM now is able to off the 3R etc. Would have sucked for this to happen a year or so ago and not had that option available. The 3R should be good for everything you’ll throw at that car!

And I agree with Saki, that was an impressive failure!

Mine did pretty much exactly the same thing at the strip last spring except I had no clutch going into 4th instead of 3rd. There were no slipping issue prior, it just kind of disintegrated.

DON’T LET YOUR WIFE DRIVE YOUR CAR WOMEN CAN’T DRIVE!!!

/standard misogynistic forum bullshit

the way it works when you hire a company to produce something like this is you have two choices

  1. they produce it for you, charge you something for the R&D process, then you can sell it, but so can they if they want to
  2. they produce it for you, and it is exclusively yours, but they charge you a fuckload more

Almost everyone does #1. If they produce something for you, then you take it and change it and sell it to your customers, it’s pretty much yours alone. In that case, you aren’t sourcing a product from someone and just drop shipping it. You are outsourcing the bulk of the manufacturing, but are finishing things yourself. I don’t know what JHM do on the clutch but I know I wouldn’t fucking gamble for $50…and I would rather the margin go to JHM than someone else. I also know JHM isn’t dumb. None of their JHM branded products that they have manufactured elsewhere have ever been succesfully copied/sourced to save someone a buck.

So potentially buying an ACT clutch/PP and trying to attach it to your B7 RS4 with an OEM or 034 flywheel will likely result in you needing to do this again in a few weeks/months. Of course, you saved $50 so that’s great lol. But hey, to be sure, take your ‘bargain’ clutch/flywheel kit to JHM and ask them to modify it for you so it will work. They’ll only charge you $1900 to do so.

Wow that’s shredded… is it just me or does it look like there wasn’t much meat left on that clutch?

I’m still a little confused on the different JHM clutches available now. I see you went with the 3R… will that still have a stronger pedal feel compared to my Stage 4?

Or is it only the 5R that will have the increased pedal pressure?

Also anyone know if the chatter on the R’s will be the same as the Stage 4 or more?

"- The stiffness of the clutch pedal is increased by about 25%. " from JHM about the R series… so does 1R, 3R and 5R have the same pedal stiffness but difference in “drivability” is what exactly?

Yea I don’t know much about how clutches work… thanks in advance.

Clutch 101. Clutches work by squeezing a clutch disc (attached to the transmission input shaft) between the flywheel (bolted to the crankshaft) and a pressure plate (PP) (bolted to the flywheel).Some of the differences are the clamping force of the PP, and the friction material of the disc. This can vary from very soft and forgiving (easy in traffic) to light switch (racing: either on or off).

Pedal “stiffness” has nothing to do with the clutch disk, that is dependent on the clamping force of the pressure plate.

Do you understand the clutch disc design and purpose? It’s mainly all about the material used.

For example puck clutch discs, like the JHM 5R 6 puck, usually have a material that will grip harder and faster than most full disks, the puck design is also used to eliminate weight and heat.

The full clutch discs usually have a material that will grip well, but not as harsh as the 6 puck. So in reality the difference between 1R and 3R is the material on both side of the clutch disc.

Other than that all three kits use the same FW surface and PP…Pressure plate clamping force is the same, but disc material and design are what increase the holding power.

Edit: I also forgot to mention the sprung center of the discs…that can also be a variable between each of the stages.

NOTICE the material difference specifically.

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b601/rs4elitist/clutch/ScreenShot2014-11-24at61841PM_zpsd9bac720.png

Damn Euro, beat me to my edit!

Chatter is dependent on the flywheel or the addition of a lighter flywheel. The R series shouldn’t be any different in that regard. Most people notice nothing…I’ve driven a few JHM LWFW S4s and I didn’t notice chatter. It’s probably something that people only notice at a stoplight, windows down, next to something that sound will reflect off of like a road barrier. Other than that it’s just something people like to freak out about and worry about…lol

Got it, thanks for the lesson there!

So what I understand is that the clamping force is going to be stiffer than the clamping force of my stock pressure plate stage 4 now, weather it’s 1R, 3R or 5R correct?

If that is correct, what is the “feeling” that is different from 1R, 3R and 5R that JHM describes on the site?

“We recommend our Stage 1 R Performance Organic Clutch Disc to those looking to get the best compromise between daily drivability and torque holding capacity. Our Stage 3 R disc offers the ultimate combination of daily drivability, torque holding capacity, and durability for back to back to back pulls. Our Stage 5 R Clutch Disc is the ULTIMATE clutch disc for your B7-RS4. The Stage 5 R is a 6-puck clutch disc featuring our proprietary performance ceramic material making it the most aggressive clutch solution that we offer to date.”

Does the 5R feel more “on/off” compared to the 1R? Is that the difference in drivability?

Yea mine only chatters when in neutral with clutch depressed. Not a big deal.

Yes clamping force will definitely be more than your current setup.

“Feeling” would be engagement

Honestly 1R and 3R probably feel very similar, but the pro of the 3R is the increased holding capacity of the material. (Important for guys with a current power adder or looking to add one)

I have heard a few 5R owners describe it as more of an ON/OFF, maybe one will chime in here.

Here is Mistro’s thread

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=1974.msg51645;topicseen#msg51645

Makes total sense now thanks.

I would prefer to not have the on/off engagement and instead have something like the 3R as you describe. Is the 3R superior to the Stage 4 as far as holding supercharged power?

I haven’t seen that thread yet! Thanks!

mistros clutch to me felt the same as stock engagement, the only noticeable difference was the harder pedal. I didn’tdrive it very far or do any launches or anything but it felt totally streetable and he loves it.

he leaves hard at the track too.

I may have tried the 3R for the better pedal feel but even the guys at twins automotive who initially got me looking to jhm for performance said the way I drive I should get the 5R. and with the addition of the supercharger it just made sense.

by the way that was quite the epic blow out on that clutch lol. mine just slips into a smoke show when it gets hot, we’ll see what it looks like when it comes out.

whats your opinion on the trio or anyone elses that have it?

heres the jhm install instructions, maybe throw this link right at the top of the actual diy thread.

http://jhmotorsports.com/instructions/JHM_B6-B7_S4-RS4-and_30v-V6_clutches_and_flywheels.pdf

I went 5r and I’m getting use to the jumpy feeling on the first gear, and reverse!its not so jumpy anymore!