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To gather some more information about this issue, what was the reason for replacing the harness?
Why is there water damage, was it a flood car?
The more information about the car the better. Did you buy the car this way? If not, what was happening when this issue first happened?
Jake
Thank you! The whole harness was replaced because the wires were black on the inside, and the car did not start anymore. Also, it was not a flood car, but it is a repairable that I got. There was a hit on the left side (driver’s) right into the headlamp. From the accident (my guess), something made a whole in the black box where ECU sits, and 3 relays (2 of them are relay 614). The car was standing outside and water got into the box. Relays had significant corrosion on them, so I tried replacing them. When I first got it, I think that PRNDS displayed correctly.
Matvey
Too bad it’s not a b6 s4…could have set some records
If the tcu has a code you need to clear the codes. have you cleared the codes in the tcu and of you did what happens after you clear the codes.
I cleared the codes in the TCU/TCM, and one code stays
001556 - Transmission Control Module
P0614 - 000 - Incorrect Software Version
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
RPM: 0 /min
RPM: 0 /min
(no units): 30.0
(no units): 13.0
Temperature: 25.0°C
T.B. Angle: 0.0°
Incorrect software version? Did you try coding anything ?
And you got this code from the TCU module. Try going into the measuring blocks of the TCU and see if your able to get feedback from the gear information and the tq converter status.
I did not recode anything personally. However, the audi specialist who was working on it (after I hit a roadblock, I gave it to him) tried coding something, but I’m not sure what exactly (I can ask him). Attached is a photo of the measuring blocks data (when I put the car in drive). The tranny is actually stuck in 4th gear, not 3rd…
If your getting the incorrect software version code and your able to communicate with all the modules like you just showed his coding is causing you issues.
Thank you!!! 
I followed your advise, and started digging through some coding (A4 has ~5 modules that you can code, so it wasn’t a big issue). I went into engine coding, and noticed that multitronic was selected as the transmission!!! I changed it back to Automatic Transmission. (I’m not sure if the guy who coded it made the mistake, since the tranny was stuck in 4th gear before I gave it to him).
http://i62.tinypic.com/1249gmd.jpg
Now I have two problems left. When I cleared all of the codes, PRNDS went back to normal, and only P was highlighted. I went through the R, N, and when I got to D, all of the letters were highlighted again. This code came up right away, and when I cleared it, PRNDS went back to normal.
1 Fault Found:
002069 - Upshift Switch Circuit for Tiptronic (F189)
P0815 - 001 - Electrical Malfunction
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
RPM: 0 /min
RPM: 0 /min
(no units): 0.0
(no units): 16.0
Temperature: 32.0°C
T.B. Angle: 0.0°
I guess this is the reason why I can’t code the TCM that I have paddle shifters (Original was 0000002, tried changing it to 0001002). Do I need to change the whole shifter assembly? Or is it a problem with the magnets that some people seem to have?
http://i58.tinypic.com/2v2a1le.jpg
The second problem is my cooling. The first time I put antifreeze in the car, everything was fine (I ran the heater on high, and waited until the fluid started coming out of the little hole in the hose, by the battery). Now when I filled it up again ( because one hose came off and leaked a lot of coolant out), the coolant doesn’t seem to circulate through the whole system. The heater blows cold air and I get these 2 codes in “Auto HVAC” module:
2 Faults Found:
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
-Matvey
EDIT: Forgot to add that the car shifts fine now! Went through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear, but didn’t want to push the car/go faster because of the cooling problem. In addition to that, the manual selection of the gears does not work.
Sounds like you need to try and push the air out of the coolant system.
The line coming off like that can create big pockets of air. Check to see if there is a bleeding screw under the intake. If not let the car run let the car get to temp so the thermostat will open and try to bleed it again at the heater core.
When you say manual gear do you mean when you shift it over into tip mode on the gear selection
Where exactly would the bleeding screw be located? (by Air Mass meter?)
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/862433931.jpg
And yes, when I said manual I meant tiptronic mode [which is probably caused by the 002069 - Upshift Switch Circuit for Tiptronic (F189) code?]
Sorry I meant the intake manifold. I don’t know if there is a bleeding screw. Useing the heater core hoses might be the best trick.
I used the heater core hose to bleed all of the air out, and now it does blow hot air. The temperature is at a halfway point the whole time probably because my radiator fan doesn’t turn on. When I turn the key all the way before starting the car, the fan starts spinning for a second, then slow down to a hault. (This code is the explanation). I did the output test on the fan but it didn’t turn on. I’m not sure if anything was supposed to happen when I did the output test on Coolant Fan Control Module (J293). Do B7’s have a common problem with this? or should I seek more help from a car electrician?
001152 - Coolant Fan Control Circuit 1
P0480 - 004 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 65100 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 737 /min
Load: 23.5 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 68.0°C
Temperature: 29.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V
Also, do you guys think I need to replace this circuit board (8E1713243H) or the whole shifter assembly to take care of the tip problem? The 2 magnets seemed to be in place…
And I checked all the fuses already.
The fan kicking on is a b7 issue the S4 has it too. Try unplugging the fan see if the code follows it. If it does you might just need a new module. On the shifter board. Will it even click and switch the heads up display from PRNDS to 123456 when you push the gate over. Did the magnets have any sign of water damage did you try magnatisng the board manually
I heard about the fan kicking in issue, but mine doesn’t turn on! When there was water damage in the relays by the ECU, the fan would start without the car running. Now after the harness was changed the fan doesn’t want to turn on (I’ll check those relays tomorrow). Now the code rarely shows up (maybe after some driving).
Shifter- if I put it in D, the whole display (PRNDS) gets lit up. Not only can’t you see the gear selected (1,2,3, etc.), but you can’t see if you’re in Drive or reverse! Like I said before, I can clear the code, but it goes back to this after it’s put in drive (display is fine if I go from P to R or N).
The magnets did not seem to have any water damage
Do you magnetize the board just by moving another magnet over it?
Update: The code doesn’t show up when the car is just running. If I unplug the cooling fan, it shows up. Could this also happen if A/C isn’t filled? Since I put the car together, I haven’t refilled it yet. Or could it be the relay 373?
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/b5/passat-relay-panel.jpg
I’m not sure if it’s the module for the fan because I connected my old module with the fans (which have some broken plastic) and those fans did not work either.
Two ways to test the fan module.
The first way is to start the car and turn on the AC most of the time the fans will kick on if you have the AC running.
The second way and it’s more fool proof. Take the battery and disconnect it. Pull the ecu out and reconnect the battery. Then turn the key to accessory. The fans should turn on with the ecu removed and the battery reconnected. If they don’t start up then turn the key to accessory and see if they start then. If they don’t start during either one then you might have a bad module. Most of the time if you have a bad relay you will get a code.