I’m checking just to make sure everything is right when it goes back in
Always a good plan considering the motor is already out.
I built a output generator that puts out 5v for testing other things. Justin gave a good list of ideas. Did you get this done or did you still have questions on how to do this?
After all the tests were done and all the parts were looked over. It’s time to start putting all those parts back on again.
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One of the great things about JHM being involved with the 4.2 is the custom parts and solutions they have made and how they have dropped the price of the timing service kits over the price of the dealer.
When you add up what the dealer prices are Vs what the JHM prices are you’re paying about 1/2 the cost of the dealer and your getting parts that are stronger and built to last.
Here are the two main parts that fail and JHM’s stronger replacements for them.
The sprocket
]
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And this guide. This is the replacement guide from JHM. The stock guide is plastic and has a failure rate of about 99%. This JHM unit isn’t going to break its a solid piece not plastic.
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and lets not forget this little guy along with the spring
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With all the new timing parts back in, you can see a real difference in the much stronger much better-built parts.
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Getting closer
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With the back of the motor all back together. It was on to the next step. Clutch and flywheel.
Since this project is all about doing what has been talked about in the past and backing it up. I took a B7 S4 flywheel with a ton of miles on it and I also took a warranty replacement PP and fresh disk and slapped it in.
Here is the thing. At the foundation of a lot of clutch issues, you can usually find install error. Now, don’t get me wrong a clutch is a moving part and it can and will fail. The RS4 PP is strong but has its limits. This is the main reason why JHM started their advanced clutch program with the R series clutches. Back to my point. With install, error on install can create lots of clutch related issues. Most of these issues don’t require anything more than re-checking and re-installing the parts correctly. So, to prove a point I installed a warranty replaced PP from JHM. Another company had installed this PP and said it was faulty. After inspection, it was found not faulty but I believe JHM still took care of the customer and I got to grab a cheap used PP.
On install, it starts with this.
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The flywheel is used as well. I make sure to have the surface prepped and material checked to assure tolerance mass. Ideally, I would have just installed a JHM LW flywheel, but its a project car and that could be something to do later.
When it come to the bolts on the flywheel. You will see scribe marks checking off each bolt as they were tightened to spec. On both the flywheel and PP the most important thing you need to keep in mind and use.
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One of the single biggest install errors is not using threadlocker. If you don’t use threadlocker the bolts can and will start to back out. This will cause all kinds of clutch issues and pre-ware if not failure
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Make sure to use your alignment tool to set up proper disk alignment. I actually know people who have tried to do this without the tool. That just creates all kinds of issues. It’s like trying to steer your car with your feet. Sure you can but its just going to be much harder and probably end in disaster.
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Snug the bolts down in a star pattern then go back with your Tq wrench and tq the bolts to spec using the same start pattern.
After you have the bolts all tq’d down. inspect the finger placement and depth. They should all sit flush with each other. Doing so will help let you know if you had any install or tightening errors.
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Pure art CV, great update! Excited to see where this build goes
x2
this is very indepth. Lots of good stuff.
Great work CV!
I really like this picture:
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I have not tested them yet. Found some issues with the heads that I am working on getting resolved before I get to my timing stuff
leaky valves. What did you find
Pretty much all 40 valve guides were very worn, along with the valve seals being junk. I found 1 bent valve, not that it matters since JHM’s valves are going in. Our biggest issue we came across at the engine shop was not having tooling small enough to do the valve job. Once I get the couple valve guides I ordered in, we can get the correct size reemer and get the heads done.
No that back of the motor is all on back together and ready to have the transmission put on. It’s time to turn to the front of the motor and a few of the major issues there.
Here are the two big issues in the front of the motor
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The Aux rad and the belt tensioner. The belt tensioner is one of the best maintenance parts you can get. It is also a great supporting part when it comes time to add more power. When the car makes big power the stock tensioner will start to fail when the motor spins up through the RPM fast enough. You will start to see a blinking Batt light as the OEM belt will start slipping. If that’s not bad enough the tensioner unit just plain fails over time. It’s one of those replacement parts you do with general maintenance anyway. So when you replace your belt most people replace the tensioner. Instead of putting back on yet another part that will just fail down the line JHM has made ANOTHER part that will replace, outperform and out list the OEM unit.
Enter the JHM Auto Tensioner.
Here is the old unit.
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Here is the new JHM unit
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You’ll notice I also replaced the snub mount and for good reason. It was decent looking from the top but when you actually inspected it.
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It was destroyed
As for the tensioner, It is easy to install and is an impressive piece. Still the overall design is pretty simple. Here are the two pieces.
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This one piece bolts right to the block like this.
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And again the finished product.
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You can see the Aux rad is in just as bad shape as the tensioner if not worse. This is one of those things that can be removed. The trick is to do it right. Heres’ how
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You’re going to need to divorce the rad and made sure to put high temp caps on the feed lines. One of the big issues is getting the right caps, in the past, I’ve helped people do this only to hear months later they didn’t use strong high temp high strength caps. If you don’t use a high temp strength cap you usually see the cap fail after a few months and it spews coolant all over the pavement and leaves you stranded.
The caps I got I just ordered them with all the parts I got from JHM. I don’t remember the part number.
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Back to divorcing the AuX system. remove the hose and the Aux unit.
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This clamp needs to get removed. The issue with that is, it’s not a removable clamp without a little work.
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Once removed it will look like this.
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You can now throw this part away.
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Install one more cap on the open side and you’re good to go
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One more step in the right direction.
Love reading this thread, I feel like you are doing quite a few of the upgrades/repairs I will need to do. Are there any cons to removing the aux rad? I’m assuming it was there for a reason but there seems to be a few things you can remove without issue.
That is one of the many cool things about this thread. Just about every part he is replaceing is a must replacement. Lots of us have removed our aux rad.
I’d go to town with some oven cleaner on that entire engine, would look so much better.
I’ll be adding the aux rad to the list of things to remove lol, more room less plumbing the better.
Will you be deleting both aux rads or just the passenger side? I started into mine last night and it would free up a bit of space with both gone and the lines.
Most people keep the driver’s side aux rad. It is good to have since these V8s run so hot.
Sounds good, i was wondering about that. Thanks
The driver side usually has no issues. The performance pump stuck open is the only code you usally get for that side if any. for whatever reason the passanger side aux rad always takes a beating.
Aesome stuff cv