def check the wires. That tends to be a big issue. The throttle body connections tend to be part of the issue as well.
Chances are with the throttle all sorted she might run even better.
Been working on mine for years…Ohh but straight those pipes out I got “fake cayts” just for visual. (Get HIGH FLOW ONES) The sound on mine even running w/#6 missing…amazing. JHM has good stuff for S6. I made a a custom front bumper. Custom ram /cowl air hood. Her engine gets super hot. Helps. Helps a ton. REMOVED spare put 3" pipes down the middle. Wrapped. Going to change my headers someday. Working on my intake Spacers now. (Buddy has CNC) Got a back engine coolant leak…pulling her one more time.
These cars are simple to work on. Out of all the vehicles 30years of it. I’d have to say VW has some terrific platforms. If you can read torque specs and build a model car…you can build an audi. Some specific tools are a must 16point torx set. Shops will RAPE you for your $$. Be careful. And keep having the fun you are! Welcome to the best platform for your audi!
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I got new throttle sensors n everything off the intake manifold…I just bought an entire rebuilt one after replacing all the sensors om my old one. Looking GREAT! I JUST changed mine from red to matte black/carbon fiber accents. Be cool as hell to go cruzn someday together!
Thanks, yeah it would be cool but I think we are separated by some oceans 
The throttle flap on the driver’s side had jammed, apparently there might be a short in the electric motor. The shop swapped the throttle bodies around and told me to drive until the fault comes back so we can see if the fault occurs on the other side this time. This is to make sure it’s indeed the unit that is faulty.
Did some pulls with the winter wheels. Even though there’s 2.6 kg (5.7 lbs) less weight per corner, there’s as good as zero difference in acceleration times both 80-120 and 0-100 km/h. Of course, the winter tires might have more rolling resistance and deformation which might counteract the weight difference. Also, there’s less grip on the road since there’s a bit of ice, but I tried to pick a dry stretch of road so it didn’t slip at least noticeably.
In conclusion - wheel weight test - inconclusive!
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I think I’ve finally found the best repair shop. The mechanic again spent over 20 minutes past closing time going over everything with me. I love it when people are enthusiastic about their work.
New intake manifold!
So I bit the bullet. Haven’t had a chance to fully test it out yet, but it is installed and working. And there’s a clearly noticeable increase in torque in all rev ranges. Is it worth the price? Well, that’s up to anyone to decide for themselves, but it definitely works, and it works well compared to the gutted intake.
BG Performance & RVS Treatments
BG Performance is an oil system cleaning that is done before oil change. You basically add the cleaning agent into the oil and let the car run at a specifig RPM for a while and then change the oil and filter.
RVS creates a ceramic surface on all friction surfaces in the engine. It reduces friction and wear, removes deposits and improves compression. It is added to the oil, but it’s a singular treatment and not an additive. It sounds like snake oil, but there’s some research pointing that it does something (https://www.rvs-usa.com/results/). There are also a bunch of anecdotal people on YouTube that have gotten results with it. At least in Finland as this is a Finnish product.
These were not very expensive and I thought why not, can’t hurt so let’s try it. I will now drive 400km with the RVS treatment in, and then re-do it as per the recommendation.
Problems found (and fixed)
Okay so the last repair shop had done a poor job with installing the intake spacers. They had not noticed a solenoid on the driver’s side was in the way of the tumble flap arms, and the flap arms had broken themselves, the solenoid attachment and the flaps were stuck into half closed all the time. Well no wonder I’ve felt like it’s been running a bit worse lately. Obviously this has also greatly reduced power which makes the 4.8 second 0-100km/h all the more amazing.
They had also done a poor job with the lightweight crank pulley. The serpentine belt was partially on top of the edge of the pulley and a couple of bolts had broken into the crankshaft.
The PCV hoses had been glued in place instead of O-rings, and also the hoses had glue and gunk in them. The shop cleaned these as best they could and replaced the O-rings, but recommended replacing all the hoses.
One hose was found to have broken behind the engine, not sure what it’s related to but needs to be looked at.
Overall great service, didn’t drive it much yet, but I can already tell it runs better, smoother, the throttle response is sharper and it makes less noise (except the good kind of noise which comes out of the exhaust). There’s still somewhat of a jerkiness when accelerating from a dead stop at generous but not full throttle - I’m starting to think it’s the tranny.
So I just finished a bunch of basically maintenance work / inspection items. I started the car idled sloppy after fuel primed… as anticipated. Idle dropped and was still sloppy but smoother, epc light was on, let car idle until warm and shut off. Next day I went out did the 'ol hold gas pedal - key on - 15 seconds - key off - release gas pedal. Started the car and it revved past cold idle and immediately corrected and idled dead on, dropped idle, dead on, very smooth. Car is running very good with this manifold and JHM spacers. I then took the car for a ride to bed the rotors and pads, about a half mile in I accelerated and braked relatively hard and the EPC light cleared itself and has been running perfect no codes for the last week.
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Looks good. Mine was completely gutted so I’m comparing to that.
Did a 2nd round of the RVS treatment. Drive to operating temp, mix the two ingredients, pour half into engine, let idle for 15min, shut down and add the second half, drive easy for 40min. What I’ve noticed so far is that the engine definitely makes less mechanical noise since the 1st round of treatment.
Some weird exhaust issues today - the exhaust note suddenly became louder for a while and then quieter again. This has happened a few times in the past, not sure if it could be a leak or something else. The whole catback section is brand new so it shouldn’t be there, but it could be caused by the leak I know I have behind cat 4.
Kappas, mullaki S6 pajalla. Ehkä saan ens viikolla takas jo.
Cool car!
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My throttle body did the same thing in the summer, then we switched the bodies and they just started working. I got new wiring looms for them as well… Old connectors were toast. Here’s a pic of the monster (trying to keep it as stock as I possibly can). Notice the japanese style body.
Haha that’s literally the same thing that mine did. Still no symptoms after the switch.
Looks great! The paintwork looks nice as well. Mine was in pretty rough shape when I picked it up.
Radiator is leaking. The shop told me it’ll leak more during winter time due to the different thermal expansion of the parts. This makes sense because when I bought the car in the spring it had coolant containers inside the cabin and I was expecting it to leak, but it never leaked during the summer. Only now.
Also there is a problem with the crank pulley after installing JHM’s lightweight pulley. My serpentine belt has now twice slipped so it rides on the edge of the pulley. Not great, not terrible. The belt is tight and the alignment should be fine. I am sending an email to JHM to ask if they can think of anything that would be causing this.
I had the oil separator and the breather hoses replaced since they were old and frail.
Ran a bottle of catalyst cleaner in hopes of getting rid of the intermittent O2 sensor codes.
Yesterday as I did a high RPM acceleration at full power there was a pop accompanied with an anxiety-inducing flashing CEL. It soon stopped flashing and once I cleared the codes they didn’t re-appear under normal driving.
The code that caused the flashing CEL and the pop was apparently Cyl. 9 misfire. There was also again an error regarding the cam position sensor B. I’m always anxious about the chain, but I guess it’s more probable it’s just the sensor or wiring.
The chain doesn’t rattle or anything like that, and I once looked at the camshaft adaptation angles with OBDEleven and they were all nominal, but I’m not confident that I did it right. But yeah this needs investigating.
Radiator replaced and the crank pulley replaced back to OEM due to JHM’s causing the belt to misalign.
P3028 is back, and since the throttle bodies have been swapped right to left, it must mean the problem is in the wiring. Cam position sensor fault appears from time to time, always cruising at ~80 km/h in 6th. So far it always goes away on its own after a minute.
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