Yikes that’s expensive!
Great post Psyk!
I have Carbotech XP8s up front and AX6s in the rear. They get pretty squeaky when it’s cold but I love the pedal modulation and stopping power. Would definitely go Carbotech again; they’re much better the stock Stoptech pads.
Thanks man! I agree, they are so much better than the StopTech pads. ;D
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/unege4u5.jpg
Swapped out pads for track day tomorrow!
The rotors are cross drilled, not dimpled. Well, partially dimpled. The inner and outer most are kinda alternating dimpled/cross drilled.
But now I don’t expect these to last too long. I need to find a replacement two piece rotor setup for the fronts. Brembo makes a 380mm rotor + caliper bracket setup. Might be the way to go. Thinking of calling up girodisc too since they’re up in Bellingham, WA.
^^^on the RS4, when you wore the stock pads down, there were little annoying pins that scraped/grooved the fuck out of your rotors rendering them pretty much useless.
WOnder if that’s the same for the RSfunf?
Hmm. Is there a pad wear sensor in the RS4? My stock pads still hand plenty of material so I’m not sure.
Yes, there is a wear sensor on RS4 pads.
More on the rotor wrecking pins from http://www.zeckhausen.com/Audi/RS4.htm
[quote]Save your expensive rotors!
Factory Audi front brake pads have metal retaining pins embedded in the friction material. In theory, these pins are supposed to be soft enough to wear with the pads. In fact, they dig into your expensive Audi rotors and can ruin them, even if your pads are only 50% worn and BEFORE your pad wear sensor is triggered.
The stock pads only start out with about 11mm of thickness (not including the metal backing plate). It doesn’t take many miles for the rivets to become exposed and your front rotors to start looking like a phonograph record.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/images/Pads/RS4/pad_rivets.jpg
[/quote]
Anyone know the torque specs of the Caliper Carrier bolts?
Weekend project is to remove the dust shields… 
(and install apikol diff mount)
By a bolt size & thread checker. Torque is based on these measurements, almost universally.
http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/sae-inch-thread-checker.html
Google thread torque chart for data based on size, thread type, and bolt grade.
my mitchell ondemand05 isn’t listing any brake info for an RS5 yet.
2008 RS4 shows guide pins @ 30 NM
caliper to hanger @190 NM
2011 S5 same as RS4
clean everything and lubricate the threads to prevent false torque, also don’t use thick viscosity grease on threads, it will give false torque like dry thread will.
Thanks, guys!
Brakes glowing red @ Oregon Raceway Park from a while back.
Pretty sweet shot. Doesn’t look like a ton of helmet headroom…? Is the seat all the way flat?
Yeah, my brother took the pic. He didn’t even realize the brakes were glowing until we pulled the pics from his camera.
Helmet clearance is slightly less than the B8 S4. Yeah, the bottom part of the seat was all the way down.
So what happens when a company decides to use the same disc rotor on both sides of the axle on a high performance car?
This:
You might want to check the rotors on your TTRS as well, Ron. Pretty sure it’s the same deal there.
Basically, the rotor is designed/reinforced to take load in one direction (more material ‘behind’ the pin), but not so much the other. One side cracks, and the other side most likely does not (I only took on side off).
I have an appointment with my dealer so they can take a look at this.
What is the rotor thickness? How many miles are on your car?
It looks like your rotors are worn with grooves dug in and cracks starting to develop around the holes.
Double post
I had the car in for the 15k service in May. I’ll have to check the thickness on the paperwork but it was noted as fine. I’ve done three track days on these (last one was before 15k service). Car has slightly less than 16k miles on it…