No sir, no manifolds were molested during this job. My manifold bolts looks really rusty, too. 
Huh, for me it looks like I have to remove them to remove those heat shields in order to remove the timing covers. Oh well, I’ve already done it so no big deal
Alright guys, I blew it big time today. I will admit that I’ve a novice when it comes to timing an engine, and I proved it today by doing what the Bentley guide said to do, instead of going with my gut instinct and NOT doing what it said to do.
Short story - Bank two is out of time. My fault.
Long story - In the Bentley online guide, it says, and I quote…
[i]"Rotate crankshaft in direction of engine rotation - arrow - to TDC ignition timing.
Slits - arrows - at front in camshafts must stand parallel at same height with upper edge of cylinder head.
Rotate camshafts at hex head slightly back or forth if necessary so that camshaft locator T40046 can be inserted.
If camshaft locator T40046 cannot be inserted, rotate crankshaft 1 rotation (360 degree ) further.
Remove camshaft locator T40046 again.
Remove drain plug from upper section of oil pan.
Install crankshaft holder 3242 in the hole (20 Nm). Rotate camshaft back and forth slightly if necessary to completely center the holder.
Push glide track of chain tensioner for left timing chain in direction of - arrow - and pull off chain tensioner using a drill bit 3.3 mm in dia. - 1 - .
Note:
In the following illustration, the timing mechanism is depicted with covers completely removed.
Remove bolts - 1 - and - 2 - for camshaft chain sprocket or camshaft adjuster using multipoint socket T10035 .
Remove camshaft chain sprocket and camshaft adjuster.
Note:
Camshaft timing chain remains on engine."[/i]
The part in bold text is what threw me, and I even remember thinking “WTH would they have me remove the cam locking tools after I just installed them”?
I should have followed my gut instinct. Instead, I followed the directions to a T, and when I went to break free the mechanical adjuster bolt, the timing skipped a tooth. Or, more like multiple teeth. It was precisely at this moment that I fully comprehended that both cams and the crankshaft must be immobilized before any wrenching takes place.
I am completely gutted. I’m so embarrassed that I did this, that it took my wife 30 minutes to convince me to post here and explain what happened. I was ready to give up and part out the car earlier today.
Furthermore, I don’t have the top timing tensioner on bank 2 anymore, as I had to break it to get it out…which is another embarrassing admission.
What I currently have is this: Bank 1 seems fine and I can get both cams to line up into TDC. But bank 2 is hosed. I can’t get both cams to move anymore. I have run into a valve pushing against a piston somewhere. I haven’t tried to force it, but I can no longer turn the motor from the alternator clockwise.
If you will take pity on a poor, old enthusiast who made a terrible mistake…
Is there anyway that I can “start over” with the timing on bank two? If I remove all the tensioners, guides, adjusters and chains…can I rotate the cams individually to get bank 2 back to TDC?
Pm me your number either me or a friend will try to help you out.
You’re still in a completely recoverable state. I’m sure Justin will get you straight.
Sounds like you just need to take the chain off that bank and manually move each of the cams until you can slide the cam lock back in. It’s a little bit of a pain, but you can move the cam shafts using a large wrench.
In case you get started before I might be able to get back to you your not past the point of no return there are lots of options.
If your rolling the motor you should always pull your plugs out part of your issue is you might have come up on the compression stroke.
You can always pull the caps off and spin the camshafts if you have to but you need to take a long time putting the caps back on or you can snap them.
Being off a tooth or two isn’t bad but it would be helpful to see a picture. Mark the cams and just make sure the crank pin is set roll the cams back words until you get them to line back up. As wolf said you can spin the camshafts by putting a wrench on a flat spot in the middle of each cam. Your fine just roll them back. As long as you don’t try to spin the motor a
lot the way over your fine.
Unfortunately, I was embarrassed by my screw up yesterday and tried to recover. I couldn’t turn back the cam that moved(actually only one moved, the cam that the adjuster sprocket attaches to, not the cam that the adjuster itself is attached to). So, I took the crank lock pin out, and the Bank 1 lock plate out, and thought that maybe I could get back to being close to TDC by rotating the engine two revolutions.
I understand now that I should have just stopped and consulted you guys. I apologize for being such an idiot.
Anyway, where the timing sits right now, bank 1 cams are sitting in TDC and the one cam on bank 2 is sorta close to TDC, and the other cam is way off. As a bonus, I’m now up against a valve, and can no longer turn the engine clockwise.
I’m so disgusted with myself right now. I was doing so well on this project, and then made a very stupid mistake, compounded by not stopping digging while the hole was getting bigger.
I’m not touching a wrench until I hear back from someone. I’ll post up a pic of where the cams are at in just a bit.
Bank 1
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72144446/Timing%20components%20job/20150623_080326.jpg
Bank 2
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72144446/Timing%20components%20job/20150623_080406.jpg
Btw justincredible…all plugs were out before any cranking was done.
[quote=“Slick,post:47,topic:7507”]
Is this what your “gut instinct” told you to do?
I really can’t see how you thought this was a good idea.
You may be able to get some pliers on an non lubricated surface of the cam shaft to rotate it back to where it should be. Just be sure to move it in the opposite direction of the way it spun. Then you can hand crank the engine to make sure everything is rotating smoothly. If you feel the engine stop while rotating, don’t force it.
However, you are definitely in a recoverable position.
Hi Jake,
Countvohn called me today and is working through this with me. The amount of help and expertise provided by guys like him, justincredible and badger, is really amazing. I can’t thank them enough!
Long story short…even if I get things back to TDC I still don’t know what damage I may have done, if any. I am fully prepared to pay for my mistakes.
I’m probably going to call you tomorrow and see what JHM has in used or rebuilt motors. I don’t like the B8 body style at all, so it might be worth it to invest in a new/used engine.
I knew going into this that there was the chance that I would completely fail. And if that happened, I’ve got a good job and the financial means to make things right. If that happens…oh well, I gave it my best shot.
Still hoping for the best, but I’m prepared for the worst.
And, since my engine’s compression numbers were not that stellar to begin with, replacing the engine isn’t the worst idea. Some of my cylinders were in the low 130s, even in a wet test.
130 isn’t great wet. But I think you can get out of the woods on this.
CV is the man. Alot of people don’t know just how dedicated he is to this platform. Any advice he gave is a smart move. I sent you some tips in a pm as well
How’s it goin? Any luck getting back to TDC?
I’ll send you an email to explain what’s going on.