Steering wheel shimmy

[justincredible]

If the wheels got hot enough you might have thrown a few wheel weights.

This Is something. To look into

If the wheels got hot enough you might have thrown a few wheel weights.

This.

Tape down your wheel weights next time.

Tape…

[komseh]

Well, after another balance, rotation, and alignment… The problem is just as bad as before.

The only thing I can think is the kid that did the balance this time screwed up or the machine was out of calibration.

[badger]

So after a track day this problem is back with a vengeance.

Cruising at 70-80mph includes a very noticeable steering wheel vibration. I’m not getting any vibration or steering wheel shimmy during braking though, which is a relief.

A few guesses:
Uneven tread wear caused by a bias towards right hand turns at that track
Alignment - shouldn’t be off but worth checking again
All my wheels are fucken bennnnt
Fuck my life
Help

:-\

I feel your pain. I still haven’t found my issue either.

Interesting it is back after track day, you’d think that has to point to something.

[aroderick56]

Well, after another balance, rotation, and alignment… The problem is just as bad as before.

The only thing I can think is the kid that did the balance this time screwed up or the machine was out of calibration.

Couple of questions

1. Where did you get this done at?

2. What brand of tires?

3. Where are you located?

4. Any way you can put the wheels on the balancer and just spin them to watch and see if there is any movement?

I usually do #4 just to see if a wheel is bent or if a tire is fucked up before I balance them.

I dealt with a similar shimmy in my girlfriends car. I mounted new Bridgestones and it had a shimmy until one day it just stopped… Never found out why

[FWP]

How about your axles? Get under the car and see if there’s any play in them at either CV joint.

[komseh]

So I got ANOTHER rebalance done after the alignment and it is much better now. Still barely noticeable, but I can live with that and feel safe driving at the track. There are no vibrations during braking now, which is the most important thing.

[komseh]

How about your axles? Get under the car and see if there’s any play in them at either CV joint.

Looks like it was indeed one or both of the axles. Even after replacing every other rotating component(except for rotors) in the front end I still had a slight vibration at certain speeds. I put my new axles from the driveshaft shop in a few nights ago and it’s smooth as butter at all speeds. There was definitely a lot of play in the previous axle joints and I was definitely abusing them at the track.

[koolade9]

How about your axles? Get under the car and see if there’s any play in them at either CV joint.

Looks like it was indeed one or both of the axles. Even after replacing every other rotating component(except for rotors) in the front end I still had a slight vibration at certain speeds. I put my new axles from the driveshaft shop in a few nights ago and it’s smooth as butter at all speeds. There was definitely a lot of play in the previous axle joints and I was definitely abusing them at the track.

I had to replace a torn CV boot a few years back and the grease at the hub end of the CV shafts was as thin as motor oil. High hub temps can really do a number on that entire assembly. Another thing people don’t think about is when/how they’re torquing axle bolts. Most people will set the car on the ground and finish tightening the bolt/hub into the wheel bearing. That’s a lot of lateral force on a part you’re trying to keep centered.

Just by re-using an axle bolt, I had a wheel bearing deflect enough to cause the wheel lip to rub the knuckle. So imagine what can happen if that hub isn’t perfectly centered. If not, you’re going to be chasing your tail for awhile.

[badger]

I had to replace a torn CV boot a few years back and the grease at the hub end of the CV shafts was as thin as motor oil. High hub temps can really do a number on that entire assembly. Another thing people don’t think about is when/how they’re torquing axle bolts. Most people will set the car on the ground and finish tightening the bolt/hub into the wheel bearing. That’s a lot of lateral force on a part you’re trying to keep centered.

Just by re-using an axle bolt, I had a wheel bearing deflect enough to cause the wheel lip to rub the knuckle. So imagine what can happen if that hub isn’t perfectly centered. If not, you’re going to be chasing your tail for awhile.

Are you talking about torquing the big axle bolt here? Isn’t the procedure to do the final torque on the ground? If not, how do you keep the axle from turning when trying to get that sucker so tight? IIRC the procedure I had was to get it to a certain torque, maybe 60-80 ft-lbs (don’t recall exactly) then do the final torque once the car is back down. I am curious as to what way you would do it… if I can solve this confounded shimmy with new joints and axle bolts…

I have been chasing a front end vibration for years… one of the first things I did was new axles (Raxles) but that didn’t seem to help anything. But this post has me wondering

[koolade9]

I had to replace a torn CV boot a few years back and the grease at the hub end of the CV shafts was as thin as motor oil. High hub temps can really do a number on that entire assembly. Another thing people don’t think about is when/how they’re torquing axle bolts. Most people will set the car on the ground and finish tightening the bolt/hub into the wheel bearing. That’s a lot of lateral force on a part you’re trying to keep centered.

Just by re-using an axle bolt, I had a wheel bearing deflect enough to cause the wheel lip to rub the knuckle. So imagine what can happen if that hub isn’t perfectly centered. If not, you’re going to be chasing your tail for awhile.

Are you talking about torquing the big axle bolt here? Isn’t the procedure to do the final torque on the ground? If not, how do you keep the axle from turning when trying to get that sucker so tight? IIRC the procedure I had was to get it to a certain torque, maybe 60-80 ft-lbs (don’t recall exactly) then do the final torque once the car is back down. I am curious as to what way you would do it… if I can solve this confounded shimmy with new joints and axle bolts…

I have been chasing a front end vibration for years… one of the first things I did was new axles (Raxles) but that didn’t seem to help anything. But this post has me wondering

Yeah, but I was primarily referring to those who’ve separated the hub/wheel bearing and are re-assembling. Regardless, I put as little weight/load as possible on the wheel I’m torquing. Same goes for wheel bolts. Have someone else hold down the brake pedal if you’re unsure.

[komseh]

I think the procedure for torquing the axle shoulder bolts on the RS4 is 200 Nm while in the air then 180 degrees on the ground. While in the air you can use a torque wrench while someone mashes on the brake or you can use a torque stick. Always use a new axle bolt if you’ve remove one for any reason.

[badger]

Thanks guys. Incidentally, I did press in new wheel bearings the same time I did my front axles. I know I snugged them up best I could by myself (no one to hold brakes) before setting down for the final torque and 180deg - distinctly remember that because I busted a ratchet lol.