Thanks Justin! Yeah it is a bit different, I was still surprised there was even a synchro for it, another thing, its a helical cut, which explains why there is no gear whine in reverse on the b7 a4. the input shaft sprocket is tiny, I’m not sure about you s4 guys, but in the b7 a4, if you pull out reverse, it takes off lol. Now it makes sense, you’ve got a tiny input shaft gear on a big output shaft gear, very low RPM’s going into the transmission come out as big movements in the wheels.
Updated the original post with a tools list and lots of progress. Now I’m just stuck on how to remove the reverse gear and reverse synchro hub. Will work on it this week.
Also I calculated I’m roughly $700 in tools. Some I already had, but most I had to buy. I think the average rebuild costs about $600 in labor. so the average joe might not be interested in doing this.
I was interested in learning how a transmission works, and how to repair one, and I am repairing two transmissions so the tool investment will be worthwhile to me.
If it’s of any consolation to you. I’ve really enjoyed this exploration of your transmission. I’d love to see some pictures of the difference between synchro parts and the R input shaft.
To further this when you tell someone to go stuff it your words come with a sense of credibility.
I need all the consolation I can get! lol I’m sure this will help someone down the road, I just feel like the parts are cheap enough that you can get a used tranny for less than a rebuild so most people go that route. As for me, I’m set, so if I blow another transmission or any local guys blow theirs I can fix them up in a weekend now.
I’m not sure about the R, but my roommate brought home a 2.8 VR6 mk4 the other day and pulled the transmission. Its nuts, the thing could fit in a medium size shipping box. Its so tiny, it weighs nothing, I’ve heard the transverse trannys are a lot easier to rebuild too. Maybe that will be the next project!
Finished taking apart the transmission the other night and spent tonight cataloging all the parts in order to make reassembly a breeze.
While inspecting all the gears I noted that the 3rd gear on the hollow shaft had a broken tooth…everything else seems great though, the synchro rings hardly have wear on them, with the exception of third gear.
Turns out MSRP on that gear is $274! Nice! Well that’s the majority of my budget lol. I’m definitely going to replace it tho.
Other than that, I broke a $12 needle bearing and twisted 2 locking c clips pretty bad. Basically it would have been a $160 parts cost to rebuild this transmission, including the $60 fluid, the $86 synchro and the small bits I broke, but that gear is the real expensive part. Interesting thing is that I went super soft on that transmission once third gear blew, I’ve been going super hard on this transmission and it’s grinding now too so this third gear in driving on must be just broken all over.
Great advice! Did that, ordered parts last week, gotta come in from Germany, should be here end of the week, maybe I’ll do some work on it this weekend.
Other than ordering parts no real updates here.
Oh I bought another tranny…yes now I have 3…why?! Because it was $250 to my doorstep.
wellllllll…no updates here, the guy who was supposed to ship me the third transmission is taking his sweet time, so I haven’t done much.
my transmission is making all sorts of noises, even in other gears now, pretty sure contaminants from the third gear are starting to mar bearing surfaces and get in between the gears.
One thing that helped me get the bearing case out without that expensive ball bearing tool… If you remove the front differential you can access the circlip behind the ball bearing you need that tool to access.
Get a crow bar to give you some leverage, a good heavy hammer and wear some decently padded gloves to get the front axle output shafts out. They’re not held in by anything more than a tight fit so just work them out with a couple taps each top to bottom then side to side and repeat.
Once those are out you can remove the 10 T45 bolts that hold the differential cover in place and tap that out with a rubber mallet from the sides.
Next lift out the differential and when you look inside you’ll be able to see the input shaft between the first ball bearing and the second roller bearing.
If you position it just right you’ll be able to remove the circlip toward the bell housing, you’ll have to move it over the first circlip’s groove too. It can be a little tricky if the input shaft is angle you won’t have the clearance on the back side of the clip to lift it out of the groove. Fortunately I have a pair of circlip pliers that allow a straight, 45 and 90 degree orientation and the 45 really helped. I used a block of wood to support the gear