That’s a major bummer. Please let us know why the immobilizer kicked in when you find out. I had always thought as long as you disconnect the battery there would be no issues.
A few things to try that might help.
With the key can you unlock the doors.
Can you turn on the radio with key on ignition.
Try swapping the ECU location of each ECU to the other side. Its happened that the slave goes into the master harnus it will give you a safe lock.
I have had this happen in the past and I just left the key in the key on position for about 45 min. But also know that if there isn’t com between the dash the key and the ECU you will get an immob issue. The car starting shows the ecus are working but something isn’t communicating at some point.
The fact you can’t com with the ECU with vag com to me says that’s what you have to really look into.
All of the other electrical (radio,doors, seats, windows etc.) worked fine
I labeled the ECUs master and slave before I removed them from the vehicle
This was not effective
That was before I changed out the failed “370” J329 power supply relay. Once I installed a new one, I was able to connect.
I do not think you will find a definitive answer on this.
Before arranging to get my vehicle towed, I talked to two Audi, one VW and a local indy tech who specializes in Audi/VW. The general consensus with the immobilizer 4 system is that it is kind of hit or miss when you disconnect the battery for an extended period whether the system will go into “safe” mode or not when the power is restored.
Will the key work to unlock the doors.
You dais the techs said system 4. I never heard of system 4.
I know its the
dash
key
ECU
But that being said. Try connecting the power and then disconnecting the power. maybe that will kick on the immobilizer.
Can you connect to the ECU in vag com now.
Yes, the key will unlock the doors (both mechanically and electrically)
There are plenty of online resources for the different generations of VAG immobilizer systems
Here is one: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer
That was not effective
Yes, once I replaced the failed J329 relay, I can connect to all of the modules (including the engine).
The immobilizer has been reset at the Audi dealer. The engine runs and the vehicle is back on the lift in my home garage to complete the re-assembly process.
Things are looking good so far.
I had it up on the lift idling for about 20 minutes last night while I topped up the ATF level. Nothing was dripping (other than the water out of the exhaust). There were also no drips on the floor under it this morning.
If I have time tonight, I will put the headlights and bumper cover back on so I can take it for a spin.
Here is a current shot of the engine bay
amazing work eng92! now for some full car shots!
Did you also replace the oil cooler? If not, how did you Determine it wasn’t a contributing factor for oil leak?
No, I am still using the original oil cooler.
I thought I made a post regarding this but could not find one when I went back through this thread.
I did a low pressure test on the coolant side. I plugged the coolant pipe on one side of the cooler and then filled the oil side of the heat exchanger with solvent. I then connected a regulator and an air line to the open coolant pipe. I set the regulator at about 15 psi and then watched for signs of bubbles to surface in the solvent. None had appeared after about 20 minutes so I considered it a pass.
I have put about 1600 km (~1000 miles) on it in the last few weeks and everything is good so far. It is running better now than it has in the last three and a half years that I have owned it.
My coolant level in the reservoir has been rock steady. Prior to the engine rebuild, I would have added at least a litre by now given the distance driven.
I had it on the lift last night and did not come across any signs of early oil leaks.
Also, I think it is the first time ever that my misfire counts have all been zero for any length of time.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/576199894.jpg
Only time will tell how long that will remain the case.
Whoa, hold on! How do you get the scan tool to come up the the MMI screen?
So glad all this hard work has ended up in such great results.
What would be the top 5 things that you found in the rebuild that everyone should know.
Also that is neat on the vag com. Is that via aux port? Do you have full control?
assuming that’s some sort of Android box replacement for the MMI
This thread is legendary and in my opinion should be permanently posted to the top of the S6 page.
Also now that the rebuild was deemed a success, what’s your verdict as to the cause of the disappearing coolant?
I imagine it could be a combination of things but i’m curious what you think having gone through the motor with a fine tooth comb.
I don’t recall there being anything totally unexpected or especially noteworthy during the project.
If you have patience, perseverance, the tools and the FSM, you just take your time and work through it methodically.
Unless you have severely overheated your engine to the extent that I did, there should be no need to tear things down to the bare block. If you do need to do this, then:
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Organization is key – group, bag and label all your smaller parts during disassembly
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Take lots of pictures during disassembly – especially the electrical and plumbing
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Use an online Audi parts database to identify all the seals and bolts, etc. that you need as you work through the disassembly process – This should save you some time and frustration at the dealership. I would just email my parts lists to the local dealer and then pick them up the next morning.
It is an Android touchscreen communicating wirelessly with the HEX NET interface in AP mode.
I originally installed the touchscreen last year so I could run a more modern navigation app. It was only after I installed it that I realized I could just install VCDS mobile and not have to use my phone or laptop.
The MMI interface is still there. An FM transmitter broadcasts it to the touchscreen. It automatically switches to the back-up camera image when you shift into reverse.
I never did really find any obvious signs that any of the coolant pipe/passage seals were leaking when I did the teardown.
I know in Greg50H’s case, the leak was at the o-ring seals where the internal coolant pipes run through the cam covers at the back of the engine. I inspected all four of my seals and there was no erosion of the o-rings or the seats.
After changing every seal and gasket in the engine, I have not seen any coolant loss in the thousand miles I have racked up so far. It may still be leaking internally, but it would be at a greatly reduced rate compared to what it was.
I will be looking forward to seeing the Blackstone results after my first oil change.
1 Like
Excellent documentation of this build process. Thank you for doing it. The time and cost seems daunting to rebuild the motor, but I thank you for doing it.
@eng92 what an awesome thread (need more words to describe how cool this is) it is a dream of mine to do this some day.
by any chance do you have the original photographs from the build? none of the links in the thread seem to be working, this might be a factor of the forums moving to the new format.
Even more ideal would be if a moderator could somehow get these links to work once again.
This thread and some CV threads must be preserved with pics, at a minimum. Visitors seeing these threads will drive more traffic to the forum. I know it’s easy for me to say, because I don’t know what’s involved, but you can already see forum traffic has all but died. This was the PREMIER forum for S6 knowledge; we need to keep it that way.