11.757@119.60 - 81Bear

Confused? Nope. I posted a video of a black B8 dynoing around here two years ago. There aren’t many AWD dyno shops here so I thought it might be him as he dynod similar numbers back around the time of this video being uploaded.

People generally will quote you if addressing you in non kawf forums :slight_smile:

Oh - I guess I misunderstood after seeing a random dyno link in this thread without mention of dynos outside of sheet I posted and just talk of boost, IATs,etc. In quick glance of thread progression- I thought u saw dyno and thought it was Bear’s. All good bud.

Great data guys! Love seeing it… Few thoughts… Bear may indeed have air in the system as my IAT’s don’t get that hot, heck I’ve seen better in the summer… Another factor to consider on the IAT’s, and it’s probably not a big one, is my intake… While it is shaped exactly like the strat one and uses the heatt shield and filter, it’s a much more heat resistant material… In addition I have it wrapped with header wrap… How much is it helping? Not sure but it can’t be hurting IMO… I think J, hit the nail on the head on the boost as it’s more the atmospheric conditions… I bet I would have made 16+ in the weather you guys had, just wonder how my IAT’s and timing would have fared… Another psi with the same timing would be a nice little gain IMO…

J, FYI… anytime I send you logs you are always more than welcome to share them or post them…

No Saki that’s not my car…

But this is:


http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd384/81bear1/th_VID-20101217-00000.jpg

And the results:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd384/81bear1/IMG_0094.jpg

Have you ever seen such a flat HP curve… LOL!

Thanks for the comparison J!

Yeah it seem my IAT are way high compared to PT’s. I`m pretty sure I worked out all the air bubbles from the system but who knows as I had to do it manually.

I guess I should give my local tuning shop a call to see if they have a vacuum pump to re-bleed the coolant. Any recommendations on which coolant to use?

That looks like an RS4 with a vacuum leak and 80,000 miles of carbon buildup (the shape).

Although the stock Audi forced induction motors all seem to have very flat curves after 5k. They limit or bleed boost off on all the new cars, other than maybe the S8. S4/5/6/7 all look just like that, with incredible torque and thus hp below 5000 RPM or so…but a castrating boost killer in the file kicking in right around 5k. Eliminate that limiter and the cars are gaining 50-60 hp. Pretty nice for the tuning companies. You can be a shit tuner and still produce great results.

I just checked in here quickly so I need some time to read through and respond to everything. But anyways, I’d just make sure all of the air is out of the supercharger cooling system. When air gets in the system, IATs will rapidly clime. I’ve seen some have difficulty pulling all of the air from the system from the past. I’ll follow up with the shop to get telltale signs of air in the system.

Tsivas, yeah remember “my story” about timing though - I know that’s an extreme but…lol.

Definitely the only things affecting boost pressure is the atmospheric pressure, your intake/air filter, and the size of your pulley. I’d want as much pressure as we can get, and apply ignition timing reductions as required. There is a possibility the APR calibration gets a little too soft on the timing when boost and temp increases - retard 2 degrees/psi up top, no idea on the temp map for retarding ignition, but look at Bear’s chart above.

There’s another thing that hasn’t been talked about. We are so far off the TVS1320 efficiency map at this point it’s possible spinning it any faster just turns it into a hair dryer. I don’t have temps before the intercooler, but i’d imagine they are getting well over 200F (250F maybe?). Would be neat to see.

The one thing we have proven is that it’s now possible to run 11s in different atmospheric conditions. Tsivas, I agree with Saki, you gotta make a little bit of time to hit the track. Your car is definitely a major candidate. I don’t see either of the 'tude cars, GIAC nor REVO, even coming close to you on 100 tune, since they can’t keep advancing ignition further (or can they, lol)

Get Arin to put you 91, 93, 100v1, and 100v2 on.

Thanks, I’ll remember that. Same for me, except one log (you know which) I just don’t want on the forums. I have and will answer people who ask me about it, and warned lots of people who were thinking about it, to not run REVO on 100 tune.

I’m wondering if there’s really any difference between your custom tune and bear’s 104 tune…this one looks like it has an extra degree or so, but I’m sure once you get to sea level and 2150 hPa intake pressures, you will get the same 21-22 degrees as bear.

Arin, is there really a different 104 tune? Or is that just a RON vs MON translation naming error…:slight_smile:

Yes, as it seems to be a secret… As far as I know only two owners have it… Me and PT.

They will likely not be 100% on top of each other. There’s a range in which the valve will begin to open even if they are not touching. Compensational tables will take care of raising / lowering request based on temp / altitude and likewise protection tables are adjusted to take away enough boost when protection is necessary.

The drop here looks similar to results I’ve seen when IAT’s creep up. Did you do any logging while this was on the dyno?

I’m sure we’ll see even smaller pullies from other tuners that will spin the charger even fasters. They have the potential to make more power. Good cooling will help. However, IAT protection in the software will need to be dumbed down, and in some cases by a pretty big amount. It’s not anything we haven’t seen before from some other tuners only after numbers. We personally haven’t taken an aggressive approach in that regard on the street cars. We are testing more aggressive temperature levels on the race car.

We wrote a 104 octane file, but it was never released. It’s currently not visiable to any distributors flashing software. I believe PT asked for it, but I thought he was the only one. Power was nearly identical till about 5900 RPM. Peak power was only slightly higher. If it made a large gain, we would consider releasing the software. However, since the gain was so small, we didn’t feel it was worth the risk to advance ignition so much further for such a small gain, especially since it would increase the risk of damage if someone had poor quality fuel.

Are you using an even smaller pulley on the race car? It would be neat to see what the temps you are getting out of the blower. I looked really hard at the intercoolers on the S4 and the tube profile and really dense fin design tells me it may be tough to improve without going up in size, which is pretty much impossible in the current module

I’d assume this is something in your minds anyway for stage III. I was a little unimpressed, though, looking at the intercoolers in the 4.2L blower’s intake module (Harrops?) and realizing there is a sparser fin density and reduced open airflow area compared to Audi’s OEM intercoolers.

“currently not visible” may mean it’s still possible to find for a resourceful and well-connected vendor? If so, it’s possible Bear may have the right 104 file…he’s running good race fuel for sure - I wish I could license Mitch’s product and distribute it myself.

I think “currently” in the key word in the statement, “Currently not visible”. I know when they were loading the APR tune on my ECU it was clearly an option in the drop-down menu.

PT, did you request the 104tune before I made mention of it or after?

Arin, any news on how I would know if there is air bubbles in the CPS unit?

  1. stock intercooling on the B8 is huge and awesome, especially when compared to that of the aftermarket supercharged Audis we’ve seen. Someone I spoke to on the OEM side tore one apart and was thoroughly impressed.

  2. what 4.2L blower were you looking at?

Was he impressed with the hardware and design of the stock intercooler or was he impressed by it’s performance i.e. running it at the drag strip with good consistency?

I ask because I think the combo of an advanced ECU and the stock valve setup (where the valve bleeds boost above 5000 rpm) is able to compensate during less than ideal conditions.

both

Bear, Yes I have had the 104 tune for quite a while… My ecu goes to APR everytime as I actually prefer to ship vs doing it local since local is an hour plus drive and my time is worth more than shipping the ecu since I don’t daily the car so if it’s out of commission a few days, no biggie… So at one point Arin mentioned the 104 tune and I asked if he could load it which they did when I went from a beta stage II tune to the stage II 100 tune and the others…

Currently the rules only allow us to run the pulley size we sell, so it’s the same one you have.

It means no one has access to it, other than engineering, and me.

I don’t think it was ever listed. Send me your vin. I’ll see what you have.

With the pump running (Car on will give it more voltage), open the cap. If the water level is going up and down rapidly, you most likely have an air bubble in the system. If you don’t have the vacuum tool, with the engine running, you can crack the bleeder valves behind the charger while pouring coolant into the cap. The level will continue to go up and down and when the rear bleeders beging puking coolant, shut them off. I’d then let the car sit and idle for 15 minutes or so with the cap off and watch for the tiny air bubbles rise out.

1.) tore one apart…? Or simply removed it from the back of the blower module? It isn’t massive but the density of the material in that space is a real feat. Performance-wise, I wouldn’t say it’s an overachiever or anything, I guess pumping up the flow helps as APR found out. But 60-70 deg C intake temps isn’t really stellar or anything.

2.) APRs intercoolers look smaller than the OEM, but mor importantly they look almost Bar-and-plate style, which is less efficient and only useful on front-mounts where rocks are a concern.

I will leave it at that