I was able to do the job no problem. Leak fixed, added 1,7 liters of ATF.
1 Like
Awesome sorry I never got back to you. I been super busy
1 Like
Lol no probs man. Thanks for the documentation, I found the ATF adding procedure from there as well. I’m writing these in case someone has the same problem as me in the future.
Just loosen the 3 screws and the whole thing pulls out this far. Just replace the O-rings for it as you go.
A spoonful or two of ATF came out, so I suggest refilling the trans. Watch out for the color of the ATF in your car, usually at a parts store they can give you the right oil based on your VIN or reg number.
The Botch Shop Inc. I had my car in previously stripped 2/3 of the bolts holding the heat exchanger in place, so I had to drill the screws out and helicoil them. Goddamn
When I started to add more ATF, I made an IQ 5 move of opening the trans oil plug when the engine was off, even though the procedure said to turn the car on and put it in P. My reasoning was “i will just loosen the plug a bit, if theres any oil coming out, I will put it back”. No oil came out at all so I just kept on unscrewing, and got an ATF shower when the plug fell. Luckily I bought 2 litres of ATF.
I refilled the trans, and the previous jerky bouncy feeling was gone. Dry as a bone now.
Been driving pretty much problem free for now
3 Likes
Gonna do valve cover gasket on the drivers side on monday. It was replaces a couple thousand km ago, but its the old type -> will leak no matter what. Will assist it with some rtv
Did valve cover gasket for driver’s side only, no leaks from the other one. A new parts number has been introduced to replace the old driver’s side VC. Probably related lol. I’m not gonna buy a 600€ valve cover tho, so I just cleaned everything clinically, and just put some heat rated rtv to help the ole’ gasket out. A couple pics:
Valve cover gasket done 2000km ago, leaking again heavily, all along the edge.
Botch shop quoted me they need to drop the engine to do VCG:s. Fook that noise, easy to get out. Most difficult parts were the cornermost screw, the dang VVT solenoid screw and the 10th cylinder coil.
Looking nice and clean after all that brake cleaning (i’ve heard you can use brake cleaner for… brakes as well… ??)
Back on the road bois
For the guys finding this from google:
Audi S6 C6 v10 Valve Cover Gasket re-seal, common fault, yeah you can do em without dropping the engine. Just get a small (narrow) T30 torx and you’re good
1 Like
Im getting more white smoke from the other bank on cold weather. Altho there is apparently a small H-pipe between the exhausts (apparently, here is an image of a stock exhaust on sale somewhere)
The left exhaust is smoking a lot more than the left one, altho invisible if the weather is warm. It smells like burned petrol, no oil or sweet smell.
No H-pipe, there is no communication. Just a piece of steel to improve the structure of the exhaust.
1 Like
Snow or no snow. No diference for him.
Best performance i had with blizzak.
Enjoy and safe drive
1 Like
I"m cold just looking at the picture. But there is a nice sense of calm knowing that you can get where ever you need to go in style and power.
1 Like
Almost a year with nothing major. Power steering went out yesterday at a store parking lot… No oil anywhere. Just a grindy noise from the pump. Looking at the worst case scenario of having to replace my power steering rack…
Can you even do that without removing the engine?
Hey man. Did I understand correctly that you replaced the power steering pump without dropping the engine?
Would you say a pro mechanics shop should be able to attempt it if I tell them its doable? They looked up the official audi documentation and it says to drop the engine.
I definitely changed it without dropping the engine im trying to remember how I removed it its been a while. I’m pretty sure I removed the subframe to have some room and i had a hydralic jack holding the engine up and I removed the driver side axle because it was blocking the bolts holding in the pump. I did It on the floor in my driveway. Honestly if I went under the car and looked at it. It probably would come back to me but I’m certain I removed the subframe
1 Like
Thanks bro. The shop was able to change it in 3 hours which kinda amazed me a bit.
What had happened:
I had previously installed a Meyle PS pump as a pre emtive strike. Bad idea.
The problem I now had is: this spline axle or P/S coupling had stripped on the engine side.
I suspect the reason is this:
The Meyle pump was intact but it was soooo damn hard to turn by hand. The oem was way easier. Imagine it at 700rpm and at 130bar. That shit is not good. I hope the oem would work, and that the engine side of the equasion isn’t cooked.
MOT inspection (katsastus) once more flying colors and a friendly engineer said he enjoys the v10 in comparison to all the elextric bs lol
2 Likes
I’m glad to hear it all worked out!
Trying to figure out whats wrong with my sai system, cold start vacuum leak so bad it loses power braking and wants to run into trees and houses. once cold start cycles off its back to running perfectly. Any common failure points in the SAI system that would result in a vac leak?
There are a lot of check valves and off the combi valves there are the vac lines… If you can either remove or you can smoke test out the SAI system by putting the smoke into the vac lines going into the valves.
1 Like
Replaced my oem? xenons with osram nightbreakers… Parking garage test doesnt show a massive difference with a control camera test. Gotta go for a ride and see if there is any.
Has anyone ever successfully retrofitted better headlights (LED or ANY upgrade at all?) on an S6? The problems is: all S6 have AFS, and you cannot code it out apparently, because the DRL:s need it to exist.
The thing is: my S6 has the worst headlights ive ever seen on a car, and that wont do for a car with 400+hp and a perfect winter driving platform. I gotta see where im going lmao
1 Like