Sitting in the lobby of a repair center… Filling the AC (or attempting to) as we speak. For some reason it was at 0,8bar. I’m hoping the botchery shop inc. just didn’t refill it. Gonna find out in a moment I guess
Seemed to take an AC refill just fine, no hissing. I guess it just wasn’t filled. G395 says “lower limit exceeded”, 0,8bar pressure reading before the filling, and 0,8bar after filling. Gonna say the G395 switch is bad. Getting an OEM one tomorrow.
Last night I retightened the Y-plenum onto the manifold. I loosened every other screw, and tightened the “vacuum portion” first, and the “fastening portion” after the fact. Smoking seemed a little less today I guess. Weird stuff.
Tomorrow gonna try to fit the new J667 Stage AFS ballast and recode the Xenon range module… Hope it stops the annoying beeping
Man, talk about cursed lines. I wasn’t even able to remove the lines without cutting them in half lol.
I went to a hydraulics store and bough some heavy duty hydraulic line, some robust tube clamps and made these:
Also now my AC works, yay! I replaced the G395 sensor with an OEM one and reset the fault codes. The non-oem sensor said 0,8bar no matter what, and the OEM says 6,2bar with the engine off.
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I coded the new headlight ballast in as well. No more MILs or annoying beeps!
Used this tutorial: How To Replace An OEM Ballast Including VAG-COM Coding (audizine.com)
Just in case that original post ever goes missing, to help other people with the “Adaptive Headlight Defective” with the trouble code “J667 Power Stage or ballast defective”
- Replace the ballast (you can find a used/new one with the OEM number for your particular one)
- Use VCDS to go to “Select Module” --> “Xenon range” or “Headlight Range”
- Once in the module, check to see what the coding is at the top. If it’s “000255”, it means your coding has been reset because of a defective subcomponent. If you select “coding” from the menu, you will see the list of possibilities. Mine was “000016” meaning 4F with a steel suspension. It had reset to 000255. Here’s what to do if it has:
- Go to “security access”, type 02000 or whatever required to enable general coding (it will be prompted). Go back
- Go to “Coding” and type the correct value. (ALWAYS TAKE SCREENSHOTS OF YOUR INITIAL CODES BEFORE CHANGING) Go back.
- Clear codes
Should be good now.
Damn haha those lines are always something
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Stuff seems pretty good with the car now in terms of leaks. Now onto the P0430 and P3298. Also with a P0068…
Can i just disconnect the MAFs and drive around a bit, then see if the cat codes return?
Mafs were giving symmetrical readings.
Engine II readings from all O2:s with some revving
Engine I readings from all O2:s with some revving
Hi man. Can I ask why you removed your trans oil cooler? Mine is leaking quite a bit, and the thing is, it’s a brand new part… no oil in coolant on coolant in oil.
Could it be the o-rings between the cooler and trans? Wouldn’t know where to get the procedure for topping off the trans afterwards?
-Thanks!
I removed it because I thought the box was clogged when my transmission kept overheating. I would guess its the o ring i would think and honestly after I checked it I put it back on and didn’t top it off lol.
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Thanks man that link is epic. Do you think I really gotta disconnect cooling hoses to replace the oil seals? I’d hope it has some flex to it to twist it to the side a bit.
I was able to do the job no problem. Leak fixed, added 1,7 liters of ATF.
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Awesome sorry I never got back to you. I been super busy
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Lol no probs man. Thanks for the documentation, I found the ATF adding procedure from there as well. I’m writing these in case someone has the same problem as me in the future.
Just loosen the 3 screws and the whole thing pulls out this far. Just replace the O-rings for it as you go.
A spoonful or two of ATF came out, so I suggest refilling the trans. Watch out for the color of the ATF in your car, usually at a parts store they can give you the right oil based on your VIN or reg number.
The Botch Shop Inc. I had my car in previously stripped 2/3 of the bolts holding the heat exchanger in place, so I had to drill the screws out and helicoil them. Goddamn
When I started to add more ATF, I made an IQ 5 move of opening the trans oil plug when the engine was off, even though the procedure said to turn the car on and put it in P. My reasoning was “i will just loosen the plug a bit, if theres any oil coming out, I will put it back”. No oil came out at all so I just kept on unscrewing, and got an ATF shower when the plug fell. Luckily I bought 2 litres of ATF.
I refilled the trans, and the previous jerky bouncy feeling was gone. Dry as a bone now.
Been driving pretty much problem free for now
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its the audi in a music vid!
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Gonna do valve cover gasket on the drivers side on monday. It was replaces a couple thousand km ago, but its the old type -> will leak no matter what. Will assist it with some rtv
Did valve cover gasket for driver’s side only, no leaks from the other one. A new parts number has been introduced to replace the old driver’s side VC. Probably related lol. I’m not gonna buy a 600€ valve cover tho, so I just cleaned everything clinically, and just put some heat rated rtv to help the ole’ gasket out. A couple pics:
Valve cover gasket done 2000km ago, leaking again heavily, all along the edge.
Botch shop quoted me they need to drop the engine to do VCG:s. Fook that noise, easy to get out. Most difficult parts were the cornermost screw, the dang VVT solenoid screw and the 10th cylinder coil.
Looking nice and clean after all that brake cleaning (i’ve heard you can use brake cleaner for… brakes as well… ??)
Back on the road bois
For the guys finding this from google:
Audi S6 C6 v10 Valve Cover Gasket re-seal, common fault, yeah you can do em without dropping the engine. Just get a small (narrow) T30 torx and you’re good
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Im getting more white smoke from the other bank on cold weather. Altho there is apparently a small H-pipe between the exhausts (apparently, here is an image of a stock exhaust on sale somewhere)
The left exhaust is smoking a lot more than the left one, altho invisible if the weather is warm. It smells like burned petrol, no oil or sweet smell.
No H-pipe, there is no communication. Just a piece of steel to improve the structure of the exhaust.
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