Thanks for the pics! Do you remember the process of what you needed to remove? I’m gonna have a go at it on monday.
Removed complete front part of car 
And removed altenator, inspect altenator cooling hoses that are clean and clamps are good.
Also recommending to remove starter and inspect brushes, clean out everything and lubricate, my starter fail due one brush completly worn out and it was barely touching rotor, and other one’s was close on limit, replaced only brushes plate, there is no need all starter. Car had 260k km when starter failed
Awesome. Didn’t need to do any AC line decompression ?
No, it was all time connected, if need lift car higher than my was, then tide up ac condensator on car with something
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Here we can see the leaks with some UV dye & with UV light. It was the lower oil pan. Also the oil pan plug was not tightened up to spec and was leaking.
Also my automatic gearbox oil cooler is sweating. I want to attend to that, but don’t know how to. I assume if I remove it, there will be a rain of oil coming down from the gearbox.
It seems most of the leaks have now been accounted for. Oil pan remains sealed, car runs pretty alright.
Hi guys, car has been running pretty good, with some minor issues. I got the “adaptive headlight defective” with a code saying " 02234 - Right Headlight Power Output Stage (J668): Defective" with the got damn loud beep every now and then. I have a new ballast coming in in a few weeks.
Also an actual issue: a looot of unburned fuel exiting out the right hand side tailpipe. For some reason the damn thing is pumping +25% to bank 2.
–> gonna do some VCDS readings for this. Got to see if its related to a stuck open injector, a clogged injector, bad O2 -sensor, maybe a MAF, or something to that effect. Let’s see.
Any input on what reading to look for, and where, would be amazing…
EDIT:: both banks were affected.
Let’s specify; the car is pumping a lot of fuel only to bank 2. Not to bank 1. And it’s most noticeable when the engine is cold, there is a lot of raw petrol smelling smoke.
The MAF:s and possible vacuum leaks should be ruled out by this, since only one bank is affected, and any reading regarding MAF:s is for both banks, since the intakes for the banks are not separate.
O2:s would suuuckkk since it likely requires engine drop to change them.
Gonna try a fuel additive first.
Edit:: both banks were affected
Unless you have an intake leak specifically at cyl 4 or 5, it’s an O2 sensor 99%. Bad injectors would give negative fuel trim. If it would be an injector issue, one of the two would have to be stuck closed. Pull the cylinder 4 and 5 spark plugs, and one or two from any other cylinder for comparison.
I reset the trims and gave the car a whirl. It ran like crap, coughing and juttering as the trims started to rise. Long term fuel trims seem to settle into 4-6%. After a while there was the all so familiar billowing fuel smoke from the exhausts, and the car smoothed out. This is some weird stuff right here.
01-Engine, Measuring Blocks 032, 033, 107
11-Engine II, Measuring Blocks 032, 033, 107
Shor term trims are not telling the full picture until long term fuel trims are set. Try to do about 30 miles, and post them again.
Problem likely found, there is an audible biiiig vacuum leak between the throttle bodies and the y-plenum. Gonna do a helicoil fix on those
I fixed the y-plenum, smoking completely stopped.
Onto the next:
What is that line connected to? Circled in green. It’s a coolant line, but it’s dripping oil from somewhere above. Also I believe its wetting the trans oil cooler, which looks pretty worrying. The auto trans cooler is brand new, so I really doubt it would be the leaky one.
Really really would not like to leak ATF. Isn’t it red anyway?
Trans oil is yellow. You should have a pretty good look if it is leaking if you remove the left wheel.