OH crap. That is a load of great mods. You will love the car when you fire it up. that is the wake the beast list of mods you have there going.
Excited to hear more.
The car is almost complete! I fired it up yesterday and WOW is all I can say! My LW Rotors are going to be arriving today and can’t wait to get them installed. I also put in two K&N air filters since they were already opened and one less thing to have to go back to. One thing I need some input is a new battery. I want to replace the battery and not sure which one to go with so all advice is welcome!
OEM battery is the preferred one, and last I heard is also the most cost effective.
The car has been running great with all of the updates and carbon clean. Hopefully the last of the problems are removing the cats. Does anyone have any ideas on the best way to remove them? Thank you
oh man… The cats are the last great bit of mod potential. But… you have to pull the motor to get to them. A full motor pull isn’t super hard depending on your mechanical ability it is just time consuming.
Welcome to the world of S6 ownership. Good luck and I wish you many many miles of reliable ownership.
Yes to pull the engine is a lot of time. Manifold really open the car up.
Costco “Kirkland” battery all the way. Get the biggest compatible battery that will fit in your battery tray (It might list the A6 battery as a compatible battery but you want the largest one on their compatibility list)
I had similar problem on V8. Thought it as at oil cooler near front passenger side, but it was oil filter housing seal. On the B7 S4, the oil filter housing seal was on top of the motor, under the intake manifold, and it was located closer to the firewall than it was to the front of the motor. The leak dribbles from the top of the motor forward, and then runs down all over the connections to the oil cooler, and then forms drips of oil under the car. If your intake manifold is off, then you should probably notice it up top. Hope this helps.
I would say your car is more than complete - you’ve got a sweet list of upgrades!! Smart list too.
Only thing I would add/consider is to keep an eye on tire weight whenever you need new tires. If you’re buying lightweight rotors and crank pulley then I’m sure you could appreciate saving more rotational weight. Depending on what tires you currently have, you could potentially knock like five pounds off of each corner of the car, if you look on tirerack at the tire weights as a factor in your buying decision. Or if you already have light tires, then buying the wrong tire could bog you down if the new tires are heavier than what you currently have. Ya know - you could potentially ADD five pounds on each corner.
The “Extremecontact DWS 06” by Continental is a good example of an ultra high performance all season lightweight tire. And even if you run winter tires, it’s worth paying attention to tire weight. You would probably be amazed how lightweight a set of Michelin X-Ice XI3 tires weigh, which are studless ice and snow tires: again it’s five or six pounds lighter, per tire, than some of the competition. The Pilot Alpin PA4 by Michelin is a performance snow tire which is also lightweight.
And you might consider lightweight rims at some point, but not everyone wants to change rims. If you DO change rims, again pay attention to weight versus what you have on the car. As an example, some people hate on Enkei RPF1 rims, but they’re cheap, they’re REALLY lightweight (17lbs per rim for the set I have), and you can fit Audi center caps to them with minimal effort (there’s a detailed DIY on this forum somewhere). So if you consider a 17lb rim with a 22lb tire, and compare that combo to what’s on your car now, then you might consider a set of Enkei’s. And you can find used Enkei’s sometimes.