2008 Audi s6 v10 valve seat bent

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

Ok ya’ll this one’s gonna be stupid as hell but im gonna let yall laugh at me. ok here goes.

This issue first started off with a plastic piece that was stuck in between the valve and the valve seat causing the car to misfiring like crazy. Here is my initial post : http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4874.0

We’ll now im facing a whole new issue that i caused. I tried to punch the plastic piece out with a screw driver and pryed around between the valve seat and the valve. finally i got it out by burning it with a soldering iron. got all the pieces out that fell in below the head and into the piston area w/ a borascope and compressed air. the rocker popped off but i popped it back in. I spun the motor to a certain position, I pushed down on the valve from inside the head (intake runners), slid the rocker back on from the side and held it in place while i spun the engine somemore and it snapped into place. I know that was a weird method but it worked fine. sure beat the hell outta removing the head and dissablming it to get the rock back on. only thing is the retainer was snapped off but thats not a big deal( its on there pretty tight.

But the main prolblem here is that i think i bent the valve seat and now the valve wont seal and wont hold carburetor clean when i spray alot on it while its closed. there is a slight crack like less than a pinhole crack ( not even half) all the other valves hold carb cleaner while closed.

Is there something I could do under the valve cover to fix it. Or am i just screwed and have to remove the whole engine and rebuild the head? if thats the case I might as well port and polish the heads and intake.And De-cat the headers.
Another thing I think it was, maybe, the valve was stuck open for a long time and the valve spring is screwed up and not normal because it was stuck. so change it out.
another theory I came up with is that the spring will warp back to normal on its own over time in will fix itself.

I dont know but

I want to slap myself in the face with a giant boat oar. seriously im royally pissed off at myself…
so what do you guys think?

I

#2

My first thought is that you still have some plastic residue stuck to the valve or seat. You said you melted the plastic out with a soldering iron. Did you spin the valve all the way around to make sure there was not any plastic stuck to it or the seat? The valve is pretty easy to rotate and inspect fully. The seat is a different story. I have my heads off right now and even with a borescope, I do not see how you can get a clear of the entire circumference.

I doubt there is anything wrong with the spring. It takes minimal spring pressure to hold a valve closed under static conditions. The high spring pressure is only required to keep the valves from floating when the engine is running.

#3

Agree. I would go after a bit stuck on the valve or the seat, though if you need to clean the seat I am not sure how you can do that with the head still on the car.

Ed

#4

What eng92 is saying. Valve seats are not easy to bend. you surely did not do it unless you stuck a flatheadscrewdrive ron and beat on it with a hammer. Pistons slapping the head will do that (when a rod bearings gets chewed up and spit out). Most likely you have some carbon or plastic still wedged up against the seat.

#5

Well depending on how long the car sat for the lifters could bleed down but that wouldn’t stop the valve from shutting.

I woould pull the valve cover off and spin the motor over a few times looking at the valve travel and the springs on either side of the one in question. As the other guys mentioned sounds like you still have something hanging up.

If you pull out all of the plugs you should be able to spin the motor over quite easy.

#6

Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply to me. Its all back together but it idles like shit. still drives good. but the idle causes the EPC to come on and then i have to turn off and restart. at least i can drive it. lol… looks like im gonna be dropping the engine and fixing that head. thats the only thing wrong.

how much do yall think a drop enigne, decat headers, fix head. reassemble would cost at a shop?

im tired of f***ing with this… i work 6 days a week, barely get any sleep. If i had more time to work on it i would( i always have fixed my own cars, but this Audi is kind of a pain in the ass. On the bright side, at least i know how to do a top end tear down.

#7

motor pull can be on average 1200 in labor. Head work can be hard to quote as there are just too many variables that can come into play. Decat headers should be easy a few hundred dollars depending on how your flex joints look. Then it can be closer to 6 hundred

#8

Thanks. Remember you told me that the head was removable without dropping engine? Although it looks really hard, do u have a write up on it?

#9

I would drop the motor for that kind of work. To do the head removal in the car your taking off the transmission obviously the 1/2 shafts then the front clip and putting the car into service mode. Your going to have to tilt back the motor to expose the timing cover. you have to remove the intake timing cover to expose the timing chains. Youll remove the timing chains to allow the head to be removed. Remove the valve cover to expose the bolts for the heads.

While its possible I would strongly suggest you just drop the motor. I did a timing job on my S4 with the motor in the car and it probably took longer than it would have if I just dropped the motor.

#10

I currently have my engine out and I think it would just be an exercise in frustration trying to remove a head with the engine still in the car. In addition to dealing with the timing chains (on the back of the engine) that Justin pointed out above, you have to unbolt both exhaust manifold sections.

I don’t think there is enough clearance to get tools in to remove all of the manifold nuts. Even if there is, you are likely to round the corners off on at least one nut in the process. I know I did and I had a straight shot at them with the engine removed.

If you are successful in removing all of the nuts, there is not enough room to pull the manifolds to the side enough to clear the studs. You would have to lift the head about 1/2" to get it off the locating pins and then remove it at an angle to get the studs clear of the manifolds. It may not even be physically possible to do it this way.

The re-assembly may be even more challenging as sealant needs to be applied to perimeter of the timing casing on both sides of the head gasket. It also has to be applied to the upper timing chain cover on the back end of the head. Working with such restricted access may result in it getting smeared during assembly and you end up with an oil leak.

If you are already frustrated at this point with the whole thing, I wouldn’t recommend moving forward trying to carry out the repair this way.