Hello to all you Awesome V10 owners… Long time watching and reading topics/posts, first time poster. Looking for advice on multiple issues. From being around different forums, this is the only place I want to talk and hopefully receive assistance from.
Here it goes, I have been a Mechanic/Service Technician for over 20 years, 7-10 in automotive field and last 10-to currently in the Heavy Equipment Repair field. I know my way around a toolbox/ service truck. I Purchased the car back in August of 2017 with 89k mi, under the impression that it needed Cats and a few little odds and ends. Right after I purchased the car I changed oil&filter, all 10 coils and plugs with OEM parts, Carbon cleaned my self. I am Currently getting random missfires at cold start and randomly at idle at any temp. I have also removed the Intake manifold recently and unfortunatly have had to remove cyl’s 5-10 change over flaps, due to pieces being everywhere they were not supposed to be. Not an uncommon issue from what I have been reading for months on this forum. The missfire issue has always been there since I took ownership of this vehicle. Car currently has 125k mi on odometer. I do not own VCDS but do own a foxwell NT510 with Audi software, I am able to pull factory codes just cant post them like all the smart guys that purchased the VCDS set up. kicking myself for that mistake… Any and all help on this issue would greatley appreciated. I will add to post in next few hours as I have a prior obligation i need to get back to…
Misfires are most certainly injectors. They need to cleaned and/or replaced.
Was also thinking that at times, but due to the inherent sound of a possible vac leak from behind intake manifold and the fact that the I read a post a few days ago about my same issues almost to a T, and his end result was replacing the battery due to low amperage. I am hoping that is a possible issue. I believe I also need to replace the PCV and o-ring on pipe that bolts PCV to IM.
I will figure out how to get pics off my cell phone into my laptop so I can upload the exact codes my Foxwell NT510 scanner is pulling. They are manufacturer codes… Anywho thank you for the advice, i do plan on buying a set of refurbed inj from JHM in the next few months. As well as many more upgrades. First things first I really want to replace IM… Although trying to justify $2K for an intake manifold is hard to swallow…
The 4 main codes I continue to get are as follows,
#1 08585 System too lean at idle, bank 2 - sporadic 004- no signal/communication
#2 08583 system too lean at idle, bank 1- sporadic 004- no signal/comm
#3 04229 Exhaust bank 4, mixture adaptation range 1, lean limit not reached- sporadic 004 no signal/comm
#4 04225 Exhaust bank 3, mixture adaptation range 1, lean limit not reached- sporadic 004 no signal/comm
A few things.
1 welcome to the forum. All the guys here are driven by one principle. NO BS ALL HELP.
2 the injectors are a big must there are a few staples that you really want to get when it comes to the car
The JHM intake spacers are going to be on of the best mods. They so drastically drop the intake and manifold temps its just a big overall help. They have also been shown to keep carbon at bay longer.
Injectors are not a if they fail but when they fail. Even OEM units bought through discount venders have shown to not flow what stock is. So again the JHM injectors are a good way to go. Just make sure to take out your injectors carefully because its a core exchange program to help keep the injectors cost effective.
Carbon clean that you have already done
The oil separator and PCV system needs to be inspected cleaned and or replaced.
Plugs and packs are the next big must have but overall it seems like you have a good idea.
Lean codes mean you have a vac leak. A big issue your going to have is that you have half the flaps on your intake manifold. I would either remove all the flaps completely or just epoxy the ones you have in and put them in the closed position. So if your looking around for the PCV leak I would consider taking the intake out and pulling or fixing the flaps. That is going to cause all kinds of issues. Bank 3 and 4 mixture adaption range not reached could be a code for the flaps missing.
We all know the intake is a big chunk to swallow. The good news is that JHM seems to have something worked out with the Audi importer or something as they get the newest intakes Vs most parts houses and even some dealers selling new old stock.
The new intake even tho its 2k still is the newest update and should be good for the next 100k if you clean and do the maintence .
Welcome and keep the questions coming.
You can check to see how crazy the vacuum is under the oil cap. That’s how I diagnosed my vacuum leak through the oil separator (BUY THE OE Audi one) I bought an aftermarket one (FEBI or something, can’t remember) and it was leaking through the diaphragm.
As for the battery, it’s the start up voltage. In any case I had a 10 yr old battery that was overdue for a change, it did always start the car but had a resting voltage of 12.2v.
Just an observation, but the lean codes point to a no signal, could that be broken wires to the O2 sensors and why the previous owner would have said the cats were no good?
Hello,
Thank you for all the help… I have an update and would like you guys to chime in and let me know if this makes sense.
I plugged my Foxwell NT510 scanner in and went into both engine modules; master/slave. I then went into Adaptation one at a time obviously and reset to manufacturer settings. Car now runs better than ever, I still feel as though I deff have a vac leak, due to the suggestion of the oil cap test which is almost impossible to remove while engine running. Assuming I will still have my main lean codes as always after a few drive cycles as I have only put a few mi on car since the reset…
Lean codes can be from a vac leak OR they can be from bad injectors.
Also keep in mind that the car will run open loop when you first clear the codes and reset the modules so it might take a few key cycles for the car to start running poorly if there really is an issue. So keep that in mind.
Check the LTFT data. Post that up for both ECU 1 and ECU 2. That will start to tell you some of the story. From there we can work on telling you step by step whats going on and what to look for.
The good thing about vag com is that it will give you freeze frame data that will help make the diagnosis quicker. But over all if you can get us the LTFT data we will know where to start.
Well, tried a few times to upload photos. Everything says its working but i cant find them? so here it goes…
Long FT data is as follows;
LongFT1 -11.7
LongFT2 -8.6
LongFT3 -4.7
LongFT4 -1.6
Interesting. You’re getting lean codes (Granted at idle) yet the ECUs are pulling fuel away from the mixture. I’d wager a bet that there’s some vacuum leak that needs to be addressed causing a lean idle, and sticking injectors acting up under load causing it to pull fuel reflected in your LTFTs.
Also thought I would note that I am now getting codes for ABS controller pressure sensor code# 01435, as well as fuel rail pressure sensor/regulator #2 P2293/00136 fuel rail/system pressure- too high - sporadic 001 -upper limit exceeded… Love my V10!!! when will it ever end…
Do these codes come right back after you clear the codes. OR do they take a while.
Fuel pressure code is gone. As for the ABS code it really is different every time. I have had it show right back up after key cycle and other times it takes 2-3 drive cycles?? I plan on purchasing new battery next week for vehicle, I feel as if that may be causing some of my issues. As for the vac leak, I’m pretty certain its caused from my PCV system and associated o-rings…
ABS is linked to so many things - I have been battling with sparatic codes that come on upon start. ABS is normally one of them - I have traced it to a dodgy Throttle body plug. As the flyby wire throttle effects cruise control which is also connected to the brakes, these codes normally pop up even thou there are no issues with your brakes.
examples are
005715 - Please check DTC Memory of ABS Controller
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
These were both from a loose connector to the throttle body - I will be posting up my findings and fixes for my problem soon
Anyway hope this helps -
The throttle body electrical connectors can certainly cause some of these codes. I had to replace my connectors shortly after I bought the car (after the dealership failed to figure out what was wrong with it). Just this weekend they acted up again. Had to redo all of my wire splices and clean the connectors.