So I’m pulling the trigger on a set of wheels and tires, I’m going to run 20x10s with a 285/30 20 tire, stasis motorsports coil overs and adjustable upper arms. I’m wondering what else will be required to get the car to align properly. Obviously I want to lower it, just enough to make the wheel gaps look good to the fender and quarter panel openings. How many degrees of camber are you guys running on this setup? Most alignment shops are just going to set it to whatever specs their database says it needs. I’d like to get the most out of the new suspension and wider contact given by the wider wheels and tires. I’m not tracking the car with this setup, just the occasional (ok daily) spirited drive on windy back roads. Thanks-
Ask around for an alignment specialist in your area. You want someone who deals with a lot of lowered cars and preferably doesn’t rely on a machine and factory specs to tell them how to set the car.
As far as adjustable parts, definitely go for some front adjustable UCAs, 034’s density line set is really nice.
Count on rolling your front fenders with that setup.
I’m not sure anyone here is running such a setup, but I’ve seen some people mention similar setups on shitshowzine.
Front
-toe: zero
-camber: for a street car, -1.5 to -2.0. If you’re tracking, -2.5 to -3.5
-caster: run as much as you can without maxing out the thread engagement on your upper control arms (techs can overlook this)
Rear
-toe: zero
-camber: if you can get away with -1, do it. With 285s, chances are you’ll need to run more to keep from rubbing depending on how low you go
I ran zero toe all around with 5.5deg of caster, and -2.2 deg of camber up front. -1.8deg of camber in the rear with a 24.5"/24.75" ride height on 285/30/19s. That’s a great compromise for street/track.
Awesome. Thank you. Final question, did any of you set your car on scales to set the coil overs? Are you setting them up even? And did you set with no driver, or with you in the driver’s seat? I have an experienced friend with scales that will be helping me, the only issue is he is not an audi guy. So I’d like feedback from someone who actually set their coilovers up to maximize the capabilities of the car once it’s on the coilovers.
IMHO, corner balancing will help, but have a negligible improvement if you’re still running rubber bushings all around. If/when you switch to sphericals & solid subframe mounts, corner balance for sure. I set up my car to account for driver weight. My ride height will lower ~3/16 on the drivers side, ~1/16 on the passenger side with driver weight.
Awesome info and Plus Karma.
Coilovers ship today. I can’t wait. I made a giant wish list of all the other stuff I want. Summer is coming and I wish I had the ambition over the winter to get all of this done.
Anyone have a place to get a spanner for stasis coil overs? This set came without one. I’m kinda pissed, but hell- I got my coilovers!
Most generic coilover spanners will work. I used Tein spanners when I first bought mine.
Koolade, great info on the specs. Would you recommend a tiny amount of toe-in all around if the car will see some long periods(12 hours) of highway driving? Will the car actually be difficult to control direction on the highway with 0 toe? My current alignment has a little over 3/32" toe-in all around which is causing some funny behavior. I didn’t tell the guy a toe spec so he went with factory.
I’ve been running zero toe for years on the audi and I haven’t had any problems with the car wandering or tram-lining on the road. I’m guessing the wider tires and the relatively stiff springs keep the induced toe at bay and it stays pretty planted. On my 190, I’m running zero toe and it wanders depending on the road, but the suspension also articulates a bit more. If you wanna run some toe, that’s your call (I would run 1/64 in the rear), but whenever I drive a car with lots of toe, I feel like the tires are chewing themselves to death. In the end, it’s a safety thing, but I just wanted to share my experiences, as I’ve been really happy with my chassis setup on the RS.