I’m just going to break down and buy a ross-tech cable next week. If any of you guys know of anyone selling one used just let me know. One way or another I will get one next week and start to figure this thing out.
Thats why were are all here. Get a vag com and just let us know when you do. You can post the data you find here and we can all help
Will do when I get it. Hopefully it will be this week.
Well a little update. I have the cable ordered and should be here on weds. Hopefully I get to check it this week, since I have jury duty. Can anyone tell me what I should be checking and where for on vcds with the ac?
Well I’m not sure if I got the right blocks for the A/C. I clicked on anything that had to do with the A/C and this is what came up.
Address 08: Auto HVAC (8E0 820 043 AD)
14:29:21
0.656 A A/C Valve (N280) Current
61.6 % A/C Valve (N280) Duty Cycle
20.5 % High-Pressure Signal (G65)
5.0 bar Refrigerant Circuit Pressure
0 Compressor Torque Status
Erased Refrigerant Circuit Pressure
Okay so the compressor is not running even with pressure present. Sounds like you need a compressor.
I had kind of mentally prepared myself for it to be the compressor, but was in denial. Yea I knew it wasn’t running, but I heard that if the high pressure switch wasn’t working that would cause the compressor not to even turn on. I never had an AC just stop working like that, you might get some squeaking or something. Even with the hissing I heard is it showing that I have enough pressure in to system to make it turn on? Could the high pressure switch being unplugged have sent the pressure back to the compressor and damaged it?
Thanks jimmy did some looking around after I replied to what you said. I knew the compressor was driven by shaft from the chains. I didn’t know that it was clutch-less and if the compressor wasn’t turning then the shaft in the compressor had snapped. Heard they go like clock work at around 60k. Well mine made it to 88k so I guess I was the exception. I guess I was also lucky that I didn’t get any loud metallic sounds. I was doing like 60-80mph when it could have went out, so I wouldn’t have heard it. Honestly how hard is it change if I have the car on jack stands, with hand tools? I’m debating on taking it to a shop vs doing it on my vacation in may.
I never heard of the shaft snapping. Im not sure where the idea they go out like clock work part came from. Who told you that. Not saying its not possible but I have never heard of that and I have seen and helped several people change there compressor and the shaft is never bad. The shaft can slide back and forth and its constantly moving so to me the only way the shaft would break outside of just getting bound up would be if the compressor stopped and froze up. If the shaft is snapped check the shaft play and see whats what it sounds like the compressor could have froze and snapped the shaft
Audi has gone to a wobble plate style for the vast majority of their AC compressors. They are more efficient and reliable than the clutch style for the most part.
The shaft that drives the AC compressor should be spinning with the engine running. If it is not then you have a major problem because the gear drive unit that drives the AC compressor, power steering pump, and other things is likely damaged. The shaft that spins the AC compressor is pretty strong and I have never seen a broken one. Instead it tends to break other stuff. It would be really obvious if you remove the compressor to check if the shaft can come out/go back in and turn in place.
I have said that the compressors go out like clock work at 60K miles. Some do make it a little longer or crap out way earlier but the majority fail at 60K. I have been wondering if the RS4 or Q7 version AC compressor would fit and work because I don’t remember too many of those failing. It isn’t something that I am willing to tinker with until my compressor fails though.
The compressor can be replaced on jack stands with hand tools but it will take a while. Expect to spend a full 12 hour day to replace it the first time without taking too many breaks.
Jimmy & Justin Let me re-word that. Don’t type and be high on benadryl at night…lol Not the shaft that drives the compressor from the back of the engine. Sorry guys that’s my fault. What ever fails inside our compressors valve, solenoid etc. On a normal AC compressor the clutch would fail normally preventing it from turning on, or seize. IDK what fails on this type of compressor to stop it from spinning, but it has to be something seeing how it is always turning due to running off of the chain drive. It would have to be something that’s meant to give, to protect the chain drive. I read on AZ it was a called a shear joint or something like that. That is if I am somewhat correct in my understanding.
I am debating If I want to try and change it myself, possibly take half if not all of my vacation to do it. I also would have to take into consideration that I read the system should and needs to be flushed if the compressor has failed. If that is true and that doesn’t fall under Evacuate/Recharge I would have to drive about an 1 1/2 hrs away to have that done. I live in the country now and regret leaving NYC (the things we do for family). That’s the closest euro shop that would know how to do it. They quoted me $1131.03 labor and $672.20 for parts. I can get all the parts for $460. I’m just trying to think if a week of my time is worth the $1131 and knowing I still have to take it and drop it off to the same shop to have it flushed and drive back and forth two times.
Labor - Service/Repair - Replace compressor 5.6 99.00 554.40
4F0 260 805AH, A/C Compressor without clutch 1 $604.00 $604.00
Labor - Service/Repair - Replace receiver drier 2.8 $99.00 $277.20
8E0 820 193Q, A/C Receiver Drier 1 $43.18 $43.18
Labor - Service/Repair - Replace orifice tube 0.3 $99.00 $29.70
8E0 820 177, A/C Orifice Tube 1 $25.02 $25.02
Labor - Service/Repair - 1 $99.00 $99.00
R134A Refrigerant (per lb) 1 $15.00 $15.00
A/C Dye Oil 1 $8.00 $8.00
Evacuate/Recharge A/C $122.00
Shop Supplies $25.73 $25.73
$1,794.71
$1,681.23
$113.48
Well I want to thank both of you. I’m just going to order all of the parts here and there over the next month and decide what route I want to take. I have motor and trans mounts to put in, also may get the automatic tensioner conversion done. Since some of that labor overlaps. I may just have them do it and diagnose this leak I’ve had for the longest. Its oil or ps fluid not sure which. If I get a really good price on that I will more than likely go that route.
Thats a good idea. I saw the list you posted above… At first it was hard to make out but i would say you dont need to replace the reciever dryer so that can same you some money right there. The rest of the parts all make sense to change out
Your welcome. I would do it myself enough though you have never done it before. The other stuff like the motor mounts and automatic tensioner conversion kit have overlapping labor so they would be very easy to do yourself at the same time.
I do disagree with Justin about replacing the receiver drier. From my experience I have had AC repairs bite me in the ass when I don’t replace the receiver drier because stuff gets clogged up in there and the AC doesn’t work.
I’ve just always known that it is a rule of thumb, that if you replace the compressor that you replace the dryer as well. Like if you change a timing belt you change the water pump. Don’t get me wrong I am sure I can change the compressor. Hell I’ve done an engine swap in a backyard, with hand tool and a pipe. The time is the biggest issue for me. I work 50hrs a week and I was going to do this on my vacation. Don’t get me wrong I love to wrench and get my hands dirty. I just didn’t want to spend almost, if not my whole vacation working. I don’t know if that make sense. I got a better quote from another shop that I wanted to try out. I wasn’t happy with the other shop that I used to do the last work on my car. I you guys remember the thumping sound thread I started a few months ago. This other shop that I want to try is a jhm dealer so that’s a plus. I am still looking for a good shop anyway. I don’t mind spending money as long as its something worth spending it on and makes life easy at the same time. This doesn’t mean I wont change my mind and do it myself. I have 3 weeks to do so, but I have it all set up just as a plan B. It just sucks because this cuts into my wheels and tune funds for the summer. I rather be cool though, I hate the heat.
If you feel comfortable and you feel you have the money to put into the AC then clearly yes its not a bad move. I have never changed one as in each case they always seem to be fine. Now I havent done tons of AC compressor swaps but I have done several and they all turned out fine. That dosent mean you cant benifit from a new dryer system I just have never seen it to be a must do
Well just a little update. I couldn’t replace the compressor myself due to finding out I’ve had a broken wrist for about two months. I dropped the car off at the shop. Mind you I did call them before I dropped the car off and asked them to double check my diagnoses. For obvious reasons, I did not want to pay to have the compressor replaced if something else could be the problem. I hate shops that don’t follow directions as that has been the issue with the last two indy shops I have gone to. So they call me today and tell me there is a leak someone where and they can’t pull vacuum. Also when when they went to empty the system there was no pressure. When they tell me that I had a wtf moment in my head. Why wouldn’t you troubleshoot where the leak is before you replaced the compressor. I then ask was the compressor the issue then I get “I’ll have to check with the tech to see if the compressor was spinning freely” So I’m saying to myself you replaced something that may not have had to be replaced. Also they tell me yea and our a/c machine it’s strong though to pull dye in the system and we have to find some place that can do it, or we will just have to rig something up. The feeling I got was we don’t know what to tell you, but you can come pay for and pickup your car. I truly hate this damn state and miss nyc soooo much.
Wow thanks for the update. The broken wrist thing is crazy thats not good. As for the AC that sucks too its about standard with most shops and AC. From what I have seen it dosent matter if the compressor spins free or not you can still have issues.
I see I’m just going to have to start taking matters into my own hands with this car for now on. I just don’t see why it is so hard to find a good shop down here… Well honestly I know why, but I just won’t say this publicly. I never had this issue in nyc. People that aren’t from up north think nyc is so shady and thats just not the case. I guess I’ve been lucky I’ve had this car since 2007 48000 miles. 1st year in ny and the rest in nc, now at 91000 miles. I’ve only had to put maybe $2000 into it repair wise, not counting oil changes, tires and thats been in the last 4yrs. Thats very good in my eyes. The sad part is that I’m thinking about selling it right now just due to the fact I cant find a good shop down here and thats a shame.
Ive run into MANY shady shops here in NYC. Dont know WTF your talking about lol. Also where in NC? There are a few shops ive heard of down there that can at least get a decent job done.