Solder does not flow at 220degC so I am not familiar with your objective…
Please keep us posted if this solves the issue. Are you having that same “power output stage” code ?
I have the exact same error.
My S6 is from late 2006 (2007 model) but modules were for sure produced before that and as low-temperature solder was mostly banned around 2006 I assumed they might have used that older solder.
The “newer” type solder will start to melt at about 450 to 475 degrees Fahrenheit (about 232 to 246 degrees Celsius).
I thought it would be safer to start way lower and work my way up the scale 
The method is to bake the circuit board for about 8 minutes without preheating the oven. Check periodically and if you see the solder get bright and shiny, go ahead and shut it down.
After 8 minutes or when the solder gets shiny, shut off the oven, open the door, and let everything sit for about 30 minutes.
This time it worked for several days.
Next time I will try with 240 degrees Celsius.
Do you have an update on this? Your codes still gone after baking?
So I tried to bake mine apart, I guess that is not possible on the C6. So I did what I could to remove the projector from the housing and did not find any broken wires or anything so am stumped. I am going to throw $1300 at it for a new lamp from the dealer… but, has anyone had property success retrofitting the a6 headlamps into the s6 and still have all the adaptive cornering and everything work ok? Maybe this would be a cheaper alternative and would look “too bad”
I install rs6 cornering headlight. Also replaced headlight control module that support cornering, all programmed and work fine.
After i get issue with right adaptive cornering, it throw error of malfunction and it didnt turn and then work again and like this for some time. Issue was inside of headlight connector unplugged from housing and loosing connection from afs module on headlight. After pushing it to module it work fine.
I get set of broken rs6 headlights for arround $270. Buy cheap A6 4F headlight, and stripp both, swap rs6 parts inside new headlight housing, cut holes for xenon and afs modules, and glued front clear cover
I was able to bake C6 lights and get the lenses off, I think I put them in the oven on 175 for maybe 15 minutes or so. I put some replacement lenses on from ebay for about $60
I’ve also had the adaptive error on my C6 S6. I was able to see the damaged wires but couldn’t really access them, so I used my soldering iron to cut a hole in the housing and melt it back together after the repair was complete. There was a YouTube video showing the best place to cut the opening. Mine has been working fine since the repair.
Ok so update, things are not looking promising. Replaced headlamp assembly with brand new (did swap over ballast and other exterior module)
So, hoping to “code in” this new light or whatnot, I think there is some incorrect coding when I was trying to disable AFS.
I do seem to recall an adaptation procedure for aiming the lights where it moves the lights all around, but it has been a while. You would be able to initiate it in VCDS and I think you need to be on level surface. I’m sure the procedure is out there somewhere.
As for the coding, you should be able to determine the proper coding based on your options. Maybe this will help…
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A6_(4F)Headlight_Aim_Control(Adaptive_Light)
SOLVED!!
Turns out it actually really was a bad j667 module only. Put in a used one from a donor light and we are good to go! I am going to take it apart and see if I can find any damage. Pretty good at debugging pcbs so I’ll post any findings
The issue I found was that when you clear the faults on Xenon Range 55, I had to clear 2 or 3 times for the j667 code to go away. This is why I thought I could never get rid of the code and it was a car electronic problem not the headlamp.
Anyhow, I am happy FINALLY. Beeping gone.
Now let me see if I can get the ACC to work again
Thanks for sharing your findings! I’m surprised to see that as the wires inside break so often. I’ve never had any trouble with any of the modules on the lights.
Speaking of PCBs, I might post a thread next time I have my bumper cover off. My RH LED DRL (S6) is dead and replacements are outrageous! I can’t imagine there would be much to fail on a PCB with 5 LEDs.
I discovered if one led DRL is bad or not plugged then it will turn off the other side. The DRLs are driven from the J667. Here was the diagram I used to diag.
I am sure you have already tried swapping DRLs left to right?
Thanks for the diagram! If I recall correctly I did swap them and the problem followed. I noticed as soon as you get the DRL error, the working light no longer illuminates. I’ve been keeping an eye out for a junkyard replacement but those are rare, so I’m thinking I should just open up the assembly and see what I can find.
I had the same thing happening to me when I ripped the bumper off a few months ago, it broke the left DRL plug. But yea, if you reset the code in Central Electronics [9] it flashes the good side and turns off again.
I recently bought a used left side from ebay for $125, they pop up every now and then…
Ha! I think I was watching that one, and got a discount offer but it was already sold! I need the right one, so I have a saved search on eBay for 4F0941068A but I suspect I’ll end up trying to fix mine at some point.
Once one HL didnt seal and get filled with water, system turn off led DRL but not another side, and there was no erron on dash. after it get dry it start work by itself
That is another famous example of Audi fixing themselves. It really does happen
Coded it in:
Inst 17
2241203
Cent el 09
0115121
Xenon 55
0000016
ACC 13
0041118
NO CODES on XENON 55 module… I cant believe I am saying this