The engagement on my JHM clutch is the same point as stock. I really didn’t trust anyone except JHM to install this, because they’ve done it so many times on the S5 and S4. They literally did the job in 8 hours and 5 minutes. I think the shop book quote at most places is like 18 hours.
Odd because this one was defiantly not anywhere close to stock engagement.
My shop quoted me 8 hours so put that in your pipe and smoke it.
I agree with everyone that has said the engagement point should be like stock. It is also very important that whoever installs the clutch and Flywheel does it properly. The B6/7 S4 and RS4 guys have seen enough threads about people with clutch issues that were usually caused by improper installs.
Also West I think that you are quoting double warranty times like what most dealerships charge. The quote that d.p. mentioned sounds more like a general quote from a shop without much experience or a flat fee that they charge for all Audi clutch jobs.
Serious question. How do you fuck up a clutch install?
That’s fine, because there isn’t a justification for your post.
[quote]Reason I ask is that JHM do not recommend any of their clutches with a 1740.
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…makes no sense.
The biggest cause is rushing the install and not following the instructions. Sounds funny but so many people have done it that it is my first assumption whenever I hear about clutch issues.
The clutch pressure plate bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel need to be cleaned off with brake cleaner and wiped clean, then they need red locktite applied to the threads, and they have to be walked down in a star pattern. Starting with finger/socket tight, then they need to be turned 90 degrees at a time until they are tight, and then finally torqued to spec.
It is very important that the red locktite be used or the bolts can back out causing the pressure plate to warp. Also the pressure plate bolts have to be walked down slowly in a start pattern or it will warp the pressure plate. It takes time to do the whole procedure correctly and it and be frustratingly slow at times. Especially if you don’t keep checking that the clutch disc is aligned correctly so the whole thing has to come apart and then go back together a few times.
Sounds simple enough but I have seen morons mess up installing factory clutches and flywheels. One guy in particular used an impact to fully tighten each pressure plate bolt all the way down at a time. On top of being so stupid he went clockwise tightening the bolts all the way down one at a time. Talk about a major screw up.
At least with the B8 style cars the shop is much less likely to mess up installing the flywheel to the back of the crankshaft like with the older B5/6/7 cars. Those cars required the flywheel to be walked down when being installed too because of the interference fit.
…makes no sense.
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Keep it on topic rather than have a crack at me. The S5 and S4 share the same clutch and I am in the market for one my question was relating to how much power the JHM clutch could handle. If / when the 1740 is release for the S4 this information is key.
Honestly, by not following the very specific directions. In reality it is simple…yet people screw it up because they feel they are too good for stupid instructions.
I can’t quote the B8 procedures, but the JHM B6/7 kits have a detailed list of step to follow.
This is the first IMPORTANT note, How many shops do you think clean the fasteners thoroughly first?
[quote]You must clean all oil off of the bolts for the clutch pressure plate and flywheel with brake cleaner or
soap and water. Also you MUST use Red Loctite on these threads as well. Lastly, make sure you
torque all bolts properly as detailed below or you may damage the clutch or flywheel and/or cause
premature failure.
[/quote]
Next, people have trouble installing the flywheel because of the “engineered interference fit (better centers the flywheel)”. You need to walk it down onto the crank a little at a time until it seats and then properly torque it. Basically the same procedure (walk down the PP), if run one bolt all the way down at a time you can warp the PP. Lastly, plenty of people have issues installing and properly bleeding the slave cylinder. I’ve done this job on my B7 S4 twice with zero issues and I’m currently installing a JHM 3R with LWFW on my RS4, so it really isn’t a tough thing as long as you follow the directions to a T.
Keep it on topic rather than have a crack at me. The S5 and S4 share the same clutch and I am in the market for one my question was relating to how much power the JHM clutch could handle. If / when the 1740 is release for the S4 this information is key.
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Not to break up your face slapping session with euroswagr but if you’re waiting for an apr TVS1740 supercharger kit I think you’re out of luck.
General Motors has filed a dispute saying that Apr is ripping off a GM patented design. If Apr can’t warranty an exhaust, and won’t pay their suppliers, I sure as fuck don’t think they’re financially strong enough to take on the general in a courtroom.
The 1740 kits are fucked.
The good news is that APR was killing motors at a prodigious rate with the kit from the looks of it, so GM may have saved your car from an early death.
^^ That.
Who in their right mind would be interested in an APR 1740 kit? Avoid that shit like the plague. We’ve seen the results.
Too late for me guys I already have one
Really? Do explain. We have a member intro thread here: http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2542.0
Next, people have trouble installing the flywheel because of the “engineered interference fit (better centers the flywheel)”. You need to walk it down onto the crank a little at a time until it seats and then properly torque it. Basically the same procedure (walk down the PP), if run one bolt all the way down at a time you can warp the PP. Lastly, plenty of people have issues installing and properly bleeding the slave cylinder. I’ve done this job on my B7 S4 twice with zero issues and I’m currently installing a JHM 3R with LWFW on my RS4, so it really isn’t a tough thing as long as you follow the directions to a T.
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What he said. You would be amazed how many shops mess up clutch installs. The higher rpm audi motors use some different materials and parts with different engineering behind them. Most techs just think install instructions and some of the preparation steps are just over kill. So they don’t do the needed steps and it almost always comes back to bite them. Meanwhile you have some guy with a clutch that isn’t working properly because of it.
V8 S5.
They have figured out that he has a V8 S5. They would like him to introduce himself. Also have you done the same thing? If not then what are you waiting for?
Exactly. I was asking him to discuss his 1740 kit.
I’m sure it will be fine 
How many miles? Fingers crossed for you. If you start noticing blue smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, post up a video. Can be a sign of trouble.
The blower itself is excellent, and the kit appears reasonably well put together. However some just think it’s maybe not the right choice to run big boost, as the internals aren’t prepped for it. They can handle the torque…we’re not talking catastrophic failure due to torque or anything, unless APR’s tuning sucks, but more talking about other aspects of the internals giving up due to boost/heat/stress.
Of course the problems appear to have been on the higher revving variant of the 4.2 FSI engine so far (R8/RS4) and we haven’t heard of any trouble with the 4.2 FSI low revving version (S5/Q7) with the APR supercharger, other than the tune’s inability to manage readiness etc…
As for your situation, I don’t know what to tell you. There are a few mainstream clutch kits out there for the B8 Audis but they all seem to get a terrible reputation (APR themselves posted a few jokes about a couple of them).
Jason @ JHM has a stage 1 JHM Vortech supercharger kit on his Monsoon Grey 4.2 S5. What’s he using? that car is making about 425 whp and probably 375 wtq or so. Not the same, but interesting. The JHM R series appear to be able to handle just about anything. The 1R might not be ideal for a big blower kit but the 3R and 5R would be fine. Are they working on the R series for the S5?
Thanks for the info…
I have only had the kit on the car for a few months, I upgraded from a 1320. The difference in power is pretty amazing however I don’t track or drag my car, mainly daily drive with the occasional spirtied squirt.
JHM have been fantastic with their communication however can not recommend a clutch for me even with my written confirmation of driving style. They are working on the 5r for the S5 however it is not released yet and they wouldn’t sell me a pre production clutch, which is totally acceptable.
I have already installed one clutch in my car which does not suit my needs and have been exploring every avenue before I replace it, as we all know it’s an expensive venture.
I ended up buying an EC stage 3 with the confirmation it will hold the power while being OEM like, so fingers crossed it is what I am after.
I personally wouldn’t be so hard on APR, I have absolutely nothing to do with them but there are 1740 kits out there on S4 running really well.
Perhaps you know more than anyone on this forum? Because that statement is quite the contrary to what word has been for the past month or so. Please elaborate on these S4s (I assume you mean B8s?) running the 1740 kit.
Nothing new, it’s no secret that there are other development cars around the world, APR are not the only ones with a 1740 B8 S4.
Just like there were also 1740 RS4’s driving around long before the kit was released.