Alternator torque setting

Hi does anyone know the torque setting for the nut on the alternator pulley ? Can’t find it anywhere ! Thanks in advance guys :+1:

It’s not in the FSM?

No not from what i can see ? All it mentions is the torque settings for the bolts that hold it on to the engine block.

While your on here how easy is it to remove the radiator and cooling fans so i can get to the alternator from the front also do you know how easy it is to re-fill the coolant and bleed it ? Am i right in thinking it not that easy ?
Thanks @Ape_Factory

Honestly, I always hate bleeding air out of the radiator system. It’s about as tedious as the brakes! There is an air relief “valve” at the back of the firewall which you loosen to let air escape. With the front bumper off and the coolant drained, it’s not hard to remove the radiator and shroud. Just be really careful with any of the tiny hoses as they become more brittle with time and heat.

Also, if you look up the procedure in the FSM, they do use a special fill tool. I haven’t looked at it in ages so I don’t remember all the deets but it wasn’t run of the mill to fill things up like the good old days!

Yeah i see the relief valve in the FSM , that’s what i thought it was not like the good old days to bleed the air out, I’ve seen the special fill tool they use so i think i might have to avoid that if possible as i have nothing like that. Thanks for the tips on the removal of the radiator and shroud good to know its not to hard to do i just dont want to drain the coolant if i dont have to if bleeding is a pain to do ! I just need to find the torque setting for this alternator pulley i can’t find it anywhere ? Thanks buddy :+1:

Posted this on the “other” forum but should post here too…

The front shaft on the alternator looks to take a triple square. Look for an offset box wrench in the right size of course. Slip that over the nut and put the triple square socket bit on a breaker bar. Either break the nut loose by turning the alternator shaft or by turning the nut. Shouldn’t matter.

I thought about maybe an impact gun on the triple square but shocking vibrations and electrical equipment doesn’t always mix well.

Now whether or not you have the room to do that in service position is another matter. When I did it there was “just” enough clearance to get something in on the belt tensioner so I could change my belt and on the crank to turn it. So might be difficult.

Yes you are spot on as always @Ape_Factory it does take a triple square it’s an M10 and the way you are saying to do it is spot on, however mine stripped the M10 triple square teeth on the shaft trying to get the nut off as it was so tight and the triple square on the alternator shaft was very rusty on mine. So i took more of your advise and disconnected the battery and used a screwdriver 2 in fact one either side to even out the load in the cooling ducts at the front of the alternator to hold the metal fan behind and did it that way :+1:

I found out the torque setting for the nut is 65nm so that was sorted too !

As for it being done in the service position it is very tight indeed and i had very sore hands after but i got the job done and my car is now up and running again as sweet as a nut !! :grin:

Were you able to check your the state of your alternator (assuming you changed it)? Weird codes or did you measure it? I’m still on the original battery (with a lot of lomg breaks from driving the car), so I am guessing the alternator is ok. Just recently got a charger for to keep the battery lasting a bit longer. I know the recuperation the coasting breaking micro hybrid system would be have data on especially if changing batteries. The higher charge could probably ruin the battery it it is the wrong type.

On the topic or the coolant. Did you bleed it? Is it merely turning a button and you hear the hissing, keep going until you get coolant coming out?

Hey @TontoLoidRS5 i did not change the alternator as i managed to get the new pulley on with the right torque setting so all is good. You can check the alternator via VCDS but I can’t remember what measuring blocks to look at without looking.

I did not take the radiator off in the end so there was no need to bleed the system, i do know its not as easy as merely turning a valve and letting the air out until you get the coolant through in the FSM they use a special fill tool that looks like its put under a certain amount of psi to push the air out !