Considering my car was supposed to be started a week ago - but wasn’t - and now I have the opportunity to change my mind… Am I wasting my money having the engine rebuilt? It’s got 100k on the clock and was modified by the previous owner (19lbs of boost). I was planning on having an entire rebuild with blueprinting and everything but am I over doing it? The 2.7T comes with a forged crank and pistons - right? I know forged connecting rods are an absolute must. What else would you say MUST be done? Rod bearings? Head bolts? Piston Rings? Head Gaskets?
Well there is a long list of questions that should be asked before I think anyone can help answer that question fully.
What power levels are you looking at.
What turbos are you looking at?
The two above questions are important. You can make 500whp and keep the RPM down below 7000. This will help keep the motor and heads happy for a long long time.
The next question you should ask is what is my current compression. Maybe look at a compression test. Also send out a oil sample and look to see what that shows.
IMHO. I have had over 15 500whp builds I have worked on and none of them were on a built motor. If you use good parts and a lot of common sense you can have a happy 2.7T for a long time.
I had a A6 2.7T with over 200,000miles on it when I added RS6 turbos. The car has over 240k and is still going strong. Moderation and proper support.
I would lay out your game plan before you build your motor. Your turbo selection and power levels will help guild you on how you build the motor. If your looking to do this properly it will go way beyond just pistons and rods. When I build motors things like ring package and piston design along with complete head over hall based on your power goals is going to make a big difference in the end results
well seeing as you have bought 770’s and are thinking of gt28rs’s i would say you should absolutely rebuild the motor and don’t skimp on head work and pistons or you will regret it, Cv nailed it there.
I personally would stick with the 770’s that you already have… I also feel that a nice set of manifolds can make a world of difference with this setup. Tough to say for sure with no data to support my feeling though.
I’ve seen your name mentioned around the internet in regards to the B5 S4 platform. Thank you for chiming in on this. I’m doing either Tial 770Rs or GT28RS turbos. I’m looking for a car capable of high 10 second or low 11 second quarter miles. I’m not planning on taking the car to the track very often and I’ll unlikely be doing any crazy launches. I just want immense amounts of power while cruising.
Thank you. I’m guessing both the GT28RS and Tial 770R will give me very similar results. You’re right - I don’t want to skimp on this build so I should just go ahead and have the engine rebuilt and blueprinted. The GT28RS setup comes with heads - my Tial 770Rs did not. Would you mind recommending good heads in the event I go with the Tials?
Seems like everyone gets the 2.8 head and gets some head work done to them. But I am sure there are more people who can steer you in the right direction.
Do your self a favor listen to CV not only does he work for SVT he is also someone that Apr and other comapnys have asked to be a consult and tuner for them he hads built and tuned more of the top fastest powerful cars then just about the rest of the companys combined
I would deffinitly say listen to what ever the count says. I have seen first hand how good he is and he has a deep deep list of cars he has built.
At this point in time. Its not too late. When you think about it. Its not too late to sell your tials. They have not evenb come close to being impressive and they have shown to be a complete fail in the everyday driving zone. The GTs have 6+ 10second cars and 10+ 130mph trapps. 600whp isn’t even a conversation with the GTs its a given.
When you look at the money. Why would you try to boilt a GT turbo compermise upto your enimic manifolds. When you can get GTs with actual headers and a full system. The tials are a compermise if your not in the spot whatre you want to make a compermise then dont. Its not too late to sell the tials and to buuld your mottor
I mean look at your tial kit and then look at the augtronix turbo kit. Same money almost. but look what your really geteting with a proper turbo kit
Also I know this turbo kit isn’t sold and Coutcohn just made it for his car but here is a good example of a turbo car with GTs and how agressive and powerful it is. If Im not mistaken CV did this roll off the line to prove a point
Thank you, everyone. I’m going through with the rebuild and I’m getting something ‘different’ for turbos. I’ll write back with more details when I can.
CV is the deal! He should be consulted what ever way you go! However if you are looking at making bigger power i can tell you that you should stroke it to a 3 liter. It costs less than 1000 more to do it and you will make a lot more power and spool faster because your moving more air!
Hmm… Well how much longer will THAT take? I don’t have a feel for how quickly this builder works so I’m not sure I want to add to their workload. When you say “a lot more power” - what are we talking about? Ballpark figure.
This is kind of a sensitive subject but my brothers S4 on AMDs Dyno made a lot more I will have home chime in. Now a lot of people are not the biggest AMD fans, however this is a good test because it is on the same Dyno with the same turbos and very similar engines execpt 2.8 vs 3.01 liter. The 2.8 is a fresh bore 2.7.
2.7L is 164.7 cubic inches
2.8L is 170.8 cubic Inches
3.01L is 183.6 cubic inches
Almost 20 extra inches is a lot…
Now lots of engine guys speak in power per cubic inch or per liter
So to that end
CV just tuned my s4 made 427wheel hp and 461 wheel tq
427/164 is 2.6 hp per cubic inch
That same 2.6 with more cubic inches is
183*2.6 would be 476 wheel hp. So you gain about 50 hp with that math… I am by no means saying these are te numbers that you will make but gives you an idea. It will take the exact same time to build a 2.7,2.8 or 3.
Is it fair to assume an exact ratio on a stock motor continuing to a bored motor? Seems a bit too linear, and math is rarely that linear with cars.
Also the OP has dropped off his car, and I think he’s expecting it back in a week. Now you’re boring out his cylinders…he’s switching turbos to who knows what…who knows about the exhaust side of things now with the different turbos.
If he does go 3.0, gets better heads etc…he’s going to be looking at 2 months is my bet.
Silly Willy Turbos
Custom Fueling kit
4 piston Brake kit
AWE SMIC with shrouds
Billet diverter valve set
3inch downpipes all mandrel bent no welds
JHM New design clutch and flywheel
Bi pipe kit coated with throttle body kit and clamps
340lph fuel pump kit
3.5" single exhaust no cats
RS4 intake manifold and throttle body
JHM Short Shifter
Aquamist HFS-4 Injection System
Oops! I forgot a couple of things. I added them to the bottom of the list.
RS4 intake manifold and throttle body
JHM Short Shifter
Aquamist HFS-4 Injection System = $831.25
And sticky tires. My favorite part of the build is the Silly Willy turbos.