And so it begins (RS5)

A5/S5/RS5
#1

Just another thread to keep track of modifications and my thoughts on them in the hope that somewhere in my ramblings someone might be able to find something useful.

I am a lifelong Audi/VW guy. MK3 2.slow turbo Jetta, MK3 VR6 supercharged GTI, a B5 A4, a MK4 2.slow Jetta, a B8.5 S4 and now a B8.5 RS5. I plan on keeping this one for a long while. I’ve got to play some catch up to some of you guys but it’s nice to see that there is still an active group of owners and a tuner like JHM keeping the platform moving forward.

The car in question is a 2014 RS5 with about 59,000 miles.

  • Daytona Grey
  • Alu Optic package
  • Stock 20" rotors with Michelin PS3
  • Non CCB car
  • Sport exhaust

Running list of Modifications

  • RSNAV Standalone interface - Has some quirks but overall great QoL improvement over stock for those who don’t want to mess with changing the look of the interior…
  • Canyon Run CR15 Strut Tower brace - No brainer for the cost and ease of install.
  • K&N filters - Thanks to all those who’ve gone before to learn the lesson that expensive intakes aren’t the answer for this car.

Upcoming Modifications
3/1/2021

  • Bilstein PSS10 coilovers
  • Meyle Front Lower Control arms
  • 034 Camber correcting Front upper control arms
  • 034 Front Upper shock mounts
  • New rear upper shock mounts
  • Carbon Cleaning - Not sure if i have the patience to do this one myself yet but it needs to be done soon regardless.
#2

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Just waiting on control arms and then it’s time to get to work. Just got myself a quickjack and I’m already loving not having to mess with Jack stands.

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#3

Looks good, I’ve fairly new to the RS5 but not Audi’s. Had Audi’s for the last 20yrs. One baby is my '03 RS6 which is converted to 6sp manual and around 550bhp and over 500lb/ft of Tq. Got a Stg2 S5 3.0t. Sad about the low Tq on the RS5 but it sounds so good so I found a 98k car with a seized engine. Found 4/8 rod bearing was partially seized (bad oil, dirty oil, not 100% sure). Because of the miles found a 25k transmission for a '15 RS5, and found a 26k motor for a '14 RS5. Just got it running but need to get the transmission coded as the immobilizer is locking it. While I’m at it I’ve completely redone the suspension (went with H&R coilovers, powerflex bushings), Got Catless headers from JHM Motorsports with an Aluminum DSG flywheel. After I get the transmission coded to the car I will upgrade it to the JHM Stg2 software, also with a SAI system delete so need that coded out. All of the SAI system is removed with blockoff plates on the back of the heads (total system saves 20+lbs). Hopefully get it into Audi for the coding next week. Also went with the Antigravity battery (Lithium) which saves another 45+ lbs and Forged wheels which saves another 30+lbs over the rotors. Also can’t forget the beautiful Redmist Racing front Crashbar for lighter weight and better cooling. Keep us up to date on your progress. Mine is also Daytona Grey.

#4

Nice mod list you got there.

however, I must ask, why not go with 034 front lower control arms as well? since you are getting the 034 camber correcting upper control arms already.

an alternative to the 034 camber correcting upper control arms would be the SPC camber adjustable control arms; IMO beefier and better quality.

FYI that is exactly the set-up i have now (034 lower control arms, SPC upper control arms, Bilstein B16, CR-15) and the steering feel is excellent.

#5

Which brand forged wheels are you looking at, anything available across the pond? I will be looking at 19 inch wheels preferably, considering they need to fit around the brakes allowing for cooling.

#6

however, I must ask, why not go with 034 front lower control arms as well? since you are getting the 034 camber correcting upper control arms already.

Honestly I went back and forth on those. I’ve used plenty of Meyle parts and they’ve been nothing but reliable which I personally favor for a daily. The control arms haven’t come in so I still may yet change my mind to return them swap for the 034 lowers. I hadn’t seen a lot of B8 specific reviews of the density line control arms but I guess I should have taken that as a good sign that people weren’t writing lots of angry reviews. How do you like them?

an alternative to the 034 camber correcting upper control arms would be the SPC camber adjustable control arms; IMO beefier and better quality.

I again went back and forth on those, the Sterns, and the 034 as well. I liked the Sterns but everything is on backorder. The SPC aren’t terribly different but they use what looks like a black oxide finished hardware in the turnbuckle which to me would start rusting out as soon as you pull them out of the box, wasn’t a fan of that. Also the threaded section in the middle of the looks to be a smaller diameter than something like the Sterns but maybe that is just the photos. At the end of the day I do like the SPCs for the fact that they use sealed/greased ball joints, more like stock, as opposed to the heim joints on the 034 but I think that’s a trade off I’m ok with. Those heim joints are easy enough to replace when they go bad, just unthread them and thread a new one in.

#7

i had Lemforder lower control arms, they lasted a good while (probably good 30-40K km). only 2 months ago did i swap them out for the SPC upper/034 lower combo

The 034 is noticeably firmer and more steering wheel feedback. If you don’t mind a firm steering feel, u should go with 034. i imagine the firmer 65 durometer rubber bushing vs OEM 45 durometer would last longer

Understand your concern, i have them on right now, they fixed my camber for sure. will give you some more updates after 6 months or so. just FYI, i saw a B8 S4 in HK with the camber correcting 034 arms and the heim joints snapped after 15K KM or so. that dented my confidence and so i went for SPC instead

#8

Thanks. I saw your recent startup video and was surprised how tame/good the engine sounded with the no cat headers. I’m really jealous of all the space you have to work on your car up on a lift but at the same time somewhat glad i don’t have one right now to get myself into more trouble lol. Next house I guess.

I will definitely be looking into some lighter wheels at some point as the stock ones are certainly boat anchors. I actually really like the look of the stock rotors and one thing that is really nice is how easy these are to clean. Last car had the V spoke 19s and man those sucked to clean.

#9

Did that car actually snap the threaded section of the rod end or was it the heim joint that fell apart?

#10

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Think the whole thing broke clean off. He didn’t bother getting the rebuild kit to rebuild as part of the threaded part broke off clean inside the arm.

He switched to SPC afterwards as well.

#11

It almost looks as if it stripped out the thread in the aluminum arm. With as much of that thread exposed on the rod arm it may not have had enough thread engagement into the arm.

#12

I had forgotten the joys of rusty suspension bolts. Going to need the torch for this one…

I’ve got the 034 density line lower control arms on the way and the meyles are going back.

#13

Good choice, you will like the 034.

#14

Hey buddy is it easy to remove the SAI system as mine is turned off so dont need it any advice you have or how to remove would be most helpful :+1:

#15

I had the front end off and the engine out so it was real easy. Otherwise I think you’d want to at least have the bumper off so you could remove the 2 Air pumps and associated plumbing (each lower front corner by the Aux radiators). Then I would just cap off each of the hoses close to the back of the engine as you can get. There are inlet valves at the back of each cylinder head that connect with a short pipe to the back of the cylinder heads. JHM had block off plates for the B7 RS4 that I knew were the same shape as the B8/B8.5 RS4/RS5 so I let Jake know and they now list them for the RS5. Just 2 M6 screws for each plate but you’d want the engine lowered a little to get at them. All together the system is probably 5~6 kilograms and only really works for the first 30sec to a minute on cold startups, otherwise it just sits there taking up room and weighing you down :slight_smile: Other than throwing a CEL without coding them out they wouldn’t affect actual emmission during testing as the car is already warmed up for testing. For some states in N. America they do a readiness test and I don’t know if the JHM software addresses that issue. I have the system removed on my RS6 also and have it coded out, never checked the readiness as I don’t have to do emmissions where I live here in Washington State.

#16

This is something I want to try out. If you do have to go to an emission test just fill it up with race fuel, ie at least e85 in some ratio. I dont know, might even work on decat.

What code do you get showing CEL, rich? During the inspection here, they check for codes.

#17

Once the car gets warmed up, all else being equal there should be no change in your emmissions once it comes off it’s Cold Start cycle. Without coding them out you will get 2 codes for the SAI system, Bank 1 & Bank2 system flow.

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#18

I left my SAI hardware in, but the new tune deleted the SAI process. Defn more fuel smell, especially on first start. Overall now, not bad as the car has run adaptation, only smell it when coming to a stop with the windows down. Smells like a race car :slight_smile:

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#19

If “one” shows up at the inspection having first warmed up the car and then cleared the codes, should be OK then, I guess. First will remove the back seat and possibly the passenger seat (a lot heavier than the back seat as you would all know).

#20

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This bolt and wiring harness is why you don’t have design reviews on a Friday. Of course I can’t find my magnet so now I get to take a break until tomorrow and that socket gets to hang out for a while.