Another bad intake manifold

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

One of our members 714Knives started having issues with his car. He contacted me through on and started a conversation with his great diligence he send over a ton of pictures and then loaded them up on the site to help others and possibly find a solid solution to his issue.

Here’s the part that actually broke.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/170982200.jpg

where did it come from you ask…

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/703089617.jpg

what the damage left behind from this.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/450680968.jpg

I wanted to post this to help him and see if anyone has any spare parts that might fix this. The piece still looks intact and I would suggest for now just plugging the hole until a new arm can get fitted. What do you guys think

#2

I think there’s a good chance he’s up for a new manifold

If that bit of plastic is broken, it probably means the plastic inside is broken and has jammed, and the pressure the motor was exerting has now broken the bit of plastic in his hand. Mine did the same thing.

Tell him to remove the air distribution housing on the top of the manifold (what the throttle bodies connect to), and take a picture inside the tunnel.

#3

Just to be extra clear here -

That arm connects the manifold ‘diverter’ flaps, and the flap motor.

There is a solid link of plastic passing through the manifold wall. This part is attached to one end, and the other end connects to the flap system. For this part to come off, the plastic has to have snapped. Therefore the only way to possibly fix it would be to pin it and glue it - however I would then no longer trust the seal and expect intake air leaks, and I would also expect the part to fail quickly.

I can’t think of any other reason for this piece of plastic to have snapped than fatigue from increased resistance, which can only have come from the flap system inside.

In the below photo, see the upper left, where it shows ‘INITIAL LINK FROM ACTUATOR - BROKEN’


http://i57.tinypic.com/w6s2us.jpg

That’s what he’s got.

-P

#4

Paul that is very helpful. Thanks I’m still trying to wrap my head around the entire thing. The picture shown is the bottom section of the intake but I assume the top half that this arm was connected to has a connection from the top. And that with that break there should be considerable room for a vac leak.

Can I bother you to take a picture of your old intake from the top portion.

Let me know if you agree and I’m correct this same arm broke on your intake.

#5

Hey Justin-

That is the top half, flipped upside down.

The bottom half houses the ‘tumbler’ flaps.

-P

#6

Not sure if this helps, or makes it worse… but this is how the flaps operate:


http://i62.tinypic.com/10xhhdu.jpg

#7

It helps. The issue for me is that it’s so much different then the 4.2. The 3.0 na motor has the same style intake from what I can tell. It’s all kinda confusing.

The one twist the air goes into a short runner and the two twist the flow goes the long way right.

#8

Yes, when at low rpm, the flaps are in the position you see them in the image, which directs the air into the long runners.

At high rpm, the actuator does 1/4 turn which moves the flaps to the ‘open’ position.

Quite different to the 4.2, from what I understand.

-P

#9

hey guys thanks for all the info , sorry for delay. I was on a golf outing for last 4 days.
So i guess im going to have to buy new intake manifold to fix the problem kinda sucks. But while im at it im going to do a carbon clean and new plugs and coils pack. So wish me luck lol

thanks again for all your helps gents!!!
Cheers

Adam
714Knives

#10

Not a bad idea.

Jim Ellis Audi had the best price when I looked - I think $1785 USD.

Keep your old manifold! Or at least donate it to v8a6’s project :slight_smile:

There may be some upgrades developed for it.

-P

#11

Is there any chance that you guys can Frankenstein together a fix for knives intake with all the broken intakes.

#12

The thing is, he probably doesnt have anything left to fix. When that lever brakes, it is likely, as Paul pointed out, that everything inside is fucked.

I have been collecting damaged intake manifolds for parts and repair, and paying about $300-$400 each for them, when they pop up. Paul sent me his broken one, and I’m going to try and fix it with another one that I purchased from ebay.de.

My advice would be to buy a new one. There was a used one on eBay awhile back, but I checked and now its gone. The guy was asking $900. At that price (which is about the going price for a used working one) I would much rather just buy new, and get the updated unit. If it breaks in a few months, you’re back at square one.

If he really wants a used one, I might be able to sell him my old one if I can get these other ones working. But, it would be the original from my car from 2007 with 130k miles, so who knows how long it would last. Really, he is better off just buying new.

#13

hey guy need help doing the Carbon Clean?

How do i get open Valves closed so i don’t drop Gunk and Cleaner inside the Cylinders?

Also What is the best Cleaner?

I looked on the Thread for awhile but didn’t see much on cleaner?

Thanks guy’s

Adam

P.S If someone wants to buy this kinda broke intake manifold for parts let me know

#14

PM sent

#15

Soaking the Valves with heavy duty oven cleaner cleans the carbon off. To move the motor over just put a socket on the alternator bolt and turn the motor over that way

#16

hi. i had same issue with manifold, what i did, brake off all that crap and im driving it for a year like that, and there is no issue with performance, on dyno show 32hp+ without this flaps


http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/winceenzo/Audi%20S6%200172%20Medium_zpsbi5nnvro.jpg


http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/winceenzo/Audi%20S6%200178%20Medium_zpsvezche9y.jpg


http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/winceenzo/Audi%20S6%200179%20Medium_zpst29d611c.jpg


http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/winceenzo/Audi%20S6%200181%20Medium_zps5qfs2ykq.jpg


http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b505/winceenzo/Audi%20S6%200183%20Medium_zpss3zaxiu7.jpg

#17

Thanks for sharing more intake pics!

When you removed all the flaps, you allowed the incoming air to use the shortest path through the (previously) variable intake runners. This will results in the most HP for your engine, as you have pointed out, regaining 32HP.

However, you no longer have the ben efit of the long runners, which provide maximum torque at lower RPMs. So, you are sacrificing somewhere between 35-70 lb/ft tq down low, by converting your manifold from variable intake runner length, to fixed. With the massive torque of the v10, you probably dont notice it, but you are actually losing quite a bit of power where it counts most for daily driving (under 5000 RPM).

Not a bad idea for a temp fix, though.

#18

Is that +32hp vs a broken manifold or vs a new one with flaps working?

I’m not trying to call you out or anything - but we’re genuinely curious because it will help to determine how much could be gained (if anything) by doing some work to increase airflow (but retaining the flaps)

If you took a dyno reading, then cracked open the manifold, removed the flaps, put it back on and dynoed again - we would expect an increase of about what you’re seeing.

-P

#19

Just so I understand that last flap was broken before you took the intake apart and that had been broken for a while… great pictures thanks for sharing

#20

No, that would have been +32 HP as a before and after. When his manifold was broken, his car was losing a lot of power. It regained the 32 HP on the top end after removing all the flaps from the broken manifold.

However, as I stated earlier, youll lose a bunch on the low end after that, compared to a new, fully functional one. Not compared to a broken one.