Hey for some reason my Audi is doing esp fault and keeps stalling this started ever since I unhooked the battery and removed the manifold to change the coolant temperature sensor clip which broke from my accident which was a head on collision and the engine did bounce back but after accident it was all normal so I’m not sure why it’s doing but I do notice the ecu computer has a wire going into like it’s bypassing the connectors ever since I got it. Here’s a video of it doing it https://youtu.be/HU_93Qwf1hg
Forgot to mention I had it started and it was fine and a bit shaky probably from cold weather and it seems to start acting up when the car got warm
Just had it started again and it acted normal and after 2 mins it started acting up again but when I give it gas it stays on but when I let go of it and it goes under 1000rpm it’ll start acting up and stall
I feel that it’s maybe the computer acting up and I don’t have a scanner would anyone have any idea why the car is doing this and it has 69k miles on it
Scan the car for codes
I would suggest starting with this. You said you don’t have a scanner but the short video you showed gives the appearance that perhaps there is a vac leak. As it sounds like the car is struggling to stay running. That would be from some outside influence on the system. Hard to pin point exactly what it could be this is when scan tools can be very helpful
Ok thanks I’ll try to get a scan on the car and I’ll check all the hoses to make sure everything is in again
Apparently I started it a day later and the car isn’t acting up it’s humming but way smoother then it was before
Spoke to soon the car made it to middle on the gauge and soon after it was whining and then it did esp fault and started doing the thing with rpm drop
I am going to get a scanner today to try and scan it
Dumb question… did you check oil level?
I have had approx. the same problem. Engine was warm. Did a kickdown acceleration (WOT) on highway to do a quick overtake and suddenly ESP lit up and ECU went into limp mode.
Very lame gas pedal response… limped to nearest parking place and hooked up my laptop with VCDS.
Cleared all errors (can’t remember them all but I had to do 2 of them in certain order) and could drive again. Just until I got a heavy right foot again. Same procedure and we could drive again.
Until I did the code clear it responded just like yours!
I found out that I was low on engine oil (no warning).
After I got the level right the error didn’t happen again.
Has happened again at one occasion… now I check level VERY often 
BTW. I suspect my oil level sensor to be bad. Sometimes it shows low level but when I check it’s ok!
PS: Writing my profile text and will soon be posting it 
That is a very short video. But from my experience it appears like there is a high pitched whistle you can hear in the video. That sounds like the vac leak whistle. From what I’ve seen you get this a lot of times at the Y pipe and at the throttle body connections. Try taking a T30 bit and just checking the bolts in all of those locations. From there you can get a wet towel and then check the PCV system as that would be the next palace to check. You can place the wet towel or wash rag around sections of the PCV system (and intake Y and throttle body if you choose) to check and see if the whistle goes away or is effected.
This isn’t a perfect world way of doing things. I would suggest getting a vac leak smoke test. As leaks can come from the intake manifold itself.
What you would be looking for in Vag com. is in the LTFT data (log term fuel trim)
Always a little transgressive when replying after the real experts have commented 
Just stumbled over this video. Perhaps it will give you some insights along with all other comments.
Particularly the first 8min…
I fixed the high pitch whistle it was the gasket on the throttle body that had silicon on it from the previous owner
The oil is fine and I changed sensors in the summer because I wasn’t trying to have problems in winter but my luck happened and I got into an accident
Yeah I noticed from before when the car was doing this same thing in the summer I messed around with it until it stopped acting up whatever the hell I did
Now I took the throttle body off to fix the coolant temperature sensor the clip broke probably from engine pushing back from ever since after that it would do it and also when the car is running normal before it starts acting up when I rev it or put it in gear it struggles
Every now and then. I get em right. Hope my post was helpful in this.
Hi CountVohn I got something funny to tell you the fuel pump made a grinding noise I think but it definitely made the whistling noise. Is it supposed to do that lol
That’s probably what’s making the car cut off when it gets warm isn’t it? And also fuel gauge doesn’t work it stays on e
