Audi S6 v10 5,2 2006 - P2004 & P1573

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

Hey everyone, my first topic.

Long story short…

For some weeks ago, my car had an oil leak. It took long time to figure out where it comes from, but I had an idea that it was the little “8-gasket” from the “oil housing”. - And it was!
No more oil leak.!! :blush:

But, after everything was connected again, the engine lamp now shows, and my obd show these two faileures:

P1923 Check DTC Memery of ECU Number 2

P2004 Intake Manifold flap, bank 1 Stuck Open

P2006 Intake Manifold flap, bank 1 Stuck Closed

P2007 Intake Manifold flap, bank 2 Stuck Closed

P1573 AUDI - Left Engine Mount Solenoid Valve Open Circuit

It starts fine, but it has clearely some “air issues”. It is a ‘boomby ride’. It can’t accelerate normal.

Soo… What is it.?
Of cause I have read all the faul-codes, and it is clearly something about that the manifold doesn’t open correctly for the air flow. But why? I have just disconnected everything and connected it again.

Is there a way I can check it? And are we clear about, the “bank 1 / left” is the passenger side?

I have all 4 electric connectors out and in again in the front of the manifold. It can’t be done on any other way!

I really hope it is just a simple connection I haven’t done right! Because everything was working great before my “manifold-oil-housing-project”.

I hope my project can indicate some ‘rookie mistakes’. Just so you know, that I have disconnected everything, and that is probably the reason?

OBS. The battery was out of power, so I jumpstarted it. It is still not full charged. Can it be something about that?

Thanks Michael

#2

Michael… Did you do the JHM intake spacers… Thats a very good mod with lots of benefits.

If you did the JHM intake spacers. You have to remove the motor pull bracket. It’s easy to do but the manifold arm hits with the spacers installed.

If not… The spacers are a good idea to get if you don’t have them.

So if you don’t have spacers installed. Check the wires for the flaps. This is for the tumble flaps. It is possible to have the wrong plug plugged into the flaps.

#3

Hey @justincredible.

No I don’t have JHM intake spacers. I just use two new normal gaskets. (I didn’t know about this JHM spacers.)

Will you explain this?:
“So if you don’t have spacers installed. Check the wires for the flaps. This is for the tumble flaps. It is possible to have the wrong plug plugged into the flaps.”

I have read a lot of stories about broken flaps in the to of the manifold. (But I didn’t ‘open’ the manifold, and it wasn’t broken before i did the oil-project, so why should it be broken know? Unless it is because I have turned the manifold around for cleaning it?)
Can I unplug the arm, and then turned the wheel to the flaps?

I really hope that I can check something, instead of take the manifold off again, and open it, to see the flaps inside.

At the picture, I have marked the 4 connectors. All 4 are connected right. The two in the middle, is not possible to switch, because they have different form.Manifold

–

Just to be sure:
Is it the flaps in the upper-middel of the manifold or the 5 flaps on every side that goes down to the valve the air-faults are about?

–

Bonus info.

I have just checked the motors/motor arm in the from of the manifold. At they are moving when the car starts and when I push the accelerator pedal.

The upper red square (small arm) are moving avery time i push the accelerator.
The 3 red squares below, (the big arm) doesn’t move much, but quickly when the motor starts.

(When does the different motors actually works? - Does it works as it should?)

So I think that that indicate that all four connectors are done right, and works.

So why all this faults?

Another thing about the battery. When I should start the car after the oil-project, there wasn’t any power. So i Jumpstarted it, with start cables from another car… But the dashboard fashes and i couldn’t get the key out. (Maybe some kind of start-lock?)

Should I disconnect the battery, so the car would restart? Will that have any effect?

#4

Clear the codes and see if they come right back

#5

I unplugged the battery and on again…

No change.

And I reset all the faults on my OBD Carista, and they got all back again.!

#6

Nice to see a fellow Dane in here :denmark:

I’ve replied to your message, hope that it helps. If it does, then please update here. :slight_smile:

#7

Well… then we are at least 3 :wink: :denmark:

#8

When I had a P2006, it was because the motor on the right in your pic was hitting the bracket mentioned above. This was due to the extra height from the JHM intake spacers–see this pic. You should check it just in case.

2448×2448 609 KB

#9

I have seen the plugs swapped before so that is possible not saying it is the issue but these codes are some of the codes given when that happenes.

. If the arms are moving that seems odd that you would still be getting a code. Not only that but the codes are only for the tumble flaps not the TQ flap

The only thing you want to worry about at this point as that is what the codes are for is the bottom motor and those flaps. The top motor and arm are for the TQ flaps.

#10

The codes are associated with the sensors. I have seen a case where the actuator linkages are moving as they should but the arms had become detached from the shafts. Everything looked fine from the outside when the linkages move but the flaps and sensors were not rotating. I ended up using some epoxy between the shaft and the actuator arm. It has been good for almost four years now.

#11

Hey everyone.:blush:
@Kimovitzh also told me, that I should try to switch 1 and 2.

image
image1051×619 293 KB

And i did, but no change… That’s strange? At least it should change something? So now i don’t Know if it was right beforw or now?

It gives me the same faults:

image
image1125×2436 272 KB
image
image1125×2436 285 KB

I don’t have any spacers, so that’s not the problem.

It drives fine. Have fine acceleration, but it is a little too slow to respond. But when it does, its fine!
It is with low rpm, that it has misfireing.

Any other ideas?

#12

It sounds weird :sweat_smile:

#13

Your codes changed. You lost P2007 and gained P0660.

The latter code is from disconnecting the connector from the motor for the manifold flaps (2) and plugging it into the angular sensor for the tumbler flaps (1)

You had it right the first time around.

#14

Okay, so I should change 1 and 2 again. (It really also make the best sense, when the position of the cables makes it a little difficult to switch. - But it was possible!)

Is it possible to say what connector/motor/part I should be focused on?

I have seen a few videos about the flaps in the manifold, that was broken. But as mentioned, everything was working fine before the oil-leak-project… So it has to be something I didn’t connect right.!?

I just want my S6 back. That would be the best Christmas Present!:gift::christmas_tree:

#15

I am sticking with the thought I posted in 10 above.

When I get home tonight, I will take a picture of a loose flap sensor that I have and post it to illustrate what I am talking about.

#16

Maybe just a guess but check your wiring from the connectors…
These cars aren’t new the wiring can be damaged by manipulating it sometimes…

#17

@eng92 that would be great :slight_smile: Thanks!

#18

All I could find at home were the bare sensors that I removed from my old intake before scrapping it.

However, I found the picture below online that shows the arm and shaft with the sensor removed.

I would remove the bank one sensor and observe if the shaft actually rotates when the arm moves.

image
image679×747 185 KB

I have found that if you mishandle the manifold during removal or install and you bump the arms in an axial direction, it can damage the point where they attach to the shaft. IIRC they are only pressed on and if you bump the arm, it will open up the bore and it will no longer be a tight fit on the shaft.

I am not saying that is what it is but I know that is what happened in my case.

#19

Thanks @eng92!

I will difinetly try to oush the arm right on again!
Are we agree, that my faults, bank 1, is the motor in my red square 1?
So that is where I should have my focus?

Otherwise, it seems like a new christmas project!:sweat_smile:

I think I should remove the manifold again, and check how the “flaps” are.

Here is a picture of mine, when I had it off! I remember that It was pretty hard to move the ‘flaps’? Should it be easy to open/close with your pure hands? At least I should clean it?

image
image3024×4032 3.23 MB

I didn’t want to “open” the manifold, but should I do that? Just to see if any flaps are damaged inside? (Or is it other faults that are showing?)

#20

Another question:

When and how should the arm moves?

When I start/push the accelerator?

Can I test see/test it?