B6 420-TS - The Build

B6 A4
#15

After 92,000 miles, the engine bay was looking decidedly grotty. Baked-on oil, and road grime.

With the engine bay free of the ASN motor, I attacked the dirt. First, scalding hot water, then more hot water, with regular car shampoo, using a medium-duty brush. The oil / road grime was so baked on, I ended up bringing in my favourite reinforcement.

DIESEL.

It broke the dirt down with ease, after letting it soak for a couple of minutes, it just washed off, with nothing more than a microfibre to agitate it. I followed this with more hot water and shampoo, using a toothbrush to reach into the tighter nooks and crannies.

I dried it all, then applied a liberal coat of tyre shine foam, then rinsed it off after 5 minutes. It’s looking great. Tomorrow, I’ll apply a coat of protective wax, to finish it all off.

Both scuttle area drain bunts were blocked solid with sediment. I pulled both off, cut off the cross-split ends, then refitted them. Nice and free, I thoroughly washed the scuttle chamber, and dried it all out.

Pictures:


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#16

So today, my clutch turned up, or at least, part of the kit. Friction disk, and throw-out bearing. The pressure plate was on back order, and will be with me on Friday.

And the B6 “S4” grille I purchased off eBay turned up, too. In going with my desire to keep the aesthetics OEM, I have shied away from the many black plastic diamond mesh grilles out there, as well as the OEM-look slatted ones that have been debated. I’m super pissed though, as it turns out, it’s just a stock B6 A4 grille. I purchased it used, and it clearly said B6 S4. I’ve gone through eBay / PayPal to get my money back, due to a misrepresented item.

I’ve ended up ordering the correct grille from Audi. I originally purchased one for my Ibis White B6, and at the time, I was not aware there were two options - chrome, or satin black surround / trim. Oddly enough, the black grille costs $14 more, and as it has to come direct from Germany, I won’t see it until next week. But, I like the look of the satin black surround, and I’m more than willing to wait. It’s not like I can drive the car without an engine and transmission, anyway.

#17


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#18

One issue that arises when boosting an engine that was originally naturally aspirated - in this case a 4.2 V8 40V, is controlling it. The hardware side is easy, a tune, less so.

I have looked at different means, whilst retaining Bosch Motronic, ME 7.1.1 as I’m not really a fan of aftermarket ECM’s in a street car, that are likely to leave a lot of systems - cluster, ABS, climate control etc with limited functionality, or none at all. I am also aware of the PWM-driven cooling fans, which are controlled by the engine ECU.

I could very likely modify a C5 RS6 harness to work here, but with the C5 RS6 ECU working best when it can “talk” to the ZF5 HP automatic transmission, this won’t be my favourite route. It will also not control the B6’s cooling fans, without an external controller, like the controller utilised in the B5 S4.

I have opted for a different approach. It will retain 100% functionality in any linked sub-systems in the B6, and plug into the stock BCM / chassis connectors in the ECU plenum.

A pair of B6 1.8T 190 (BEX) harnesses, and ECU’s. I have just purchased a pair. These will run the V8 40V motor, I intend to code just one of the ECU’s for the immobiliser, and have the second one defeated. The main ECU will be linked to the cluster and various sub-systems via the chassis connectors, with the second one only connected in terms of the power inputs. The firing order for both coilpacks and injectors is easy to take care of.

I will most likely run 2 separate throttle bodies, the rest of both ECU inputs - VR signal, CPS, CKP, VVT, Lambda inc. wideband etc. will be split between both ECU’s, using diodes where required to prevent feedback.

I have built Bosch harnesses in the past, when I first built my 1989 VW Golf II 1.8 16V turbo, controlled by a modified Audi S2 ECU, which involved cracking open the case, and modifying the internals to control a 4 cylinder motor. This was pre-1.8T motor, and it worked well, producing 347hp / 422Nm. It sounds pretty low by today’s standards, but hey, this was 1992!

The twin ECU set-up I’m going to use here will also make engine control more flexible, and allow a higher rev limit for a V8 motor that isn’t an 079-series high-revving unit found in the B7 RS4.

I will likely have to purchase a cheap FWD R&D B6 A4 for test purposes, when the time comes.

#19

I have spent the last night going over the control systems of the BEX motor. The only snag I can actually see right now, is the MAF. I was planning to run a single fat snail, but with 2 separate ECU’s, I might well need to make the snails twins, as it may not be practical to split the MAF signals between both ECU’s via the twin harnesses.

Using diodes though, could possibly eliminate feedback and false readings if I decide to stick with a single. I guess it’s a case of, suck it and see.

#20

Yesterday, I pulled the engine and transmission, from the Akoya Silver car.

I’ll be removing the clutch and smaller brake pedal, as well as the hydraulic lines and both cylinders. It’s easier to install them into the Denim Blue car, with an empty bay.

I can then turn my attention to the driveline. I’m pulling the gearbox off the motor, to fit a new clutch, then I need to get the lot pressure washed, before installation. I’m also replacing the timing belt and tensioners / idlers.

The dead donor:


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#21

I got a fair bit done today.

I started with removing the pedal box, clutch lines and master cylinder from the Akoya Silver car. I’ve done a couple of manual swaps on B6 A4’s, both were LHD, one was a 1.8T, the other a 1.9TDI.

One thing worthy of note - the procedure is totally different between LHD and RHD cars. It took me about an hour, mainly due to not having the tool the disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster’s pushrod. I installed it in the Denim Blue car, using the grommets from the donor car. Having a complete car makes all the difference.

I also removed the cable from the ignition lock to the tip shifter.

While the clutch fell fine, the throw-out bearing was really noisy, so I installed a new clutch kit. The clutch pressure plate and friction disk looked fine, when I pulled the transmission from the engine. The throw-out bearing was completely shot. Noisy, and rough in operation. The plastic ring was so worn, it fell off. It was ridged, and the pressure plate had actually worn right through. All buttoned up, tomorrow I’ll shove the engine and transmission into the bay.

The transmission…being an '03, means no 01E 6-speed here. It’s got the later 02X 6-speed, which is nowhere as robust as the Getrag 01E. The 02X has a torque limit of 330 Nm, which a stock 4.2 V8 already exceeds. I have an 01E, from a B5 2.5 TDI, which will be bolted behind a built 4.2 V8 40V turbo, come next summer.

Pictures!


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3-pedals installed:


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Clutch hard line installed:


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Clutch master cylinder feed line:


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#22

I finally completed the bulk of the work on B6 420-TS. The motor and manual transmission have been installed, and she’s running great.

With regards to coding for manual transmission…I didn’t go that route. I simply used the manual harness on the donor engine, with the matching ECU. I also used the donor car’s instrument cluster, and of course, the car fired up right away.

I still have the ABS module coded for automatic transmission, and with the TCU and shifter no longer in the car, there’s no way to code it for manual. I ended up removing the ABS module from the manual donor car, and tomorrow, I’ll fit it, no coding will be required.

The left hand downpipe / catalyst flexi joint was so rotten, it practically fell apart, just when I was about to install the engine and gearbox. Luckily, I was able to use the downpipe from the original Tiptronic application. With the ZF5 tip transmission being so big, the downpipe has more than enough clearance from the 6-speed manual.

I have not fitted the front end, as I want to replace the timing belt tomorrow. Clutch all bled, I just need to swap the rear differential, then all the underbody stuff is done.

The previous owner had some nasty exhaust sleeves joining the downpipes to the rest of the exhaust. I mean, real nasty. A quick call to Audi, and 30 minutes later, a pair of OEM clamping sleeves were delivered.

Some pictures.

The dead left-hand downpipe, due to flexi joint failure. I’m buying a new flexi, and having it welded in:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0285_zpsrfv0buuy.jpg

OEM goodness:


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Fitted:


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How she is:


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#23

I still need to wire in the clutch switch, but I won’t need to take the ECU connector apart, as since the harness is from a manual car, it’s already got the wire in location #39.

I just need to wire up to the receiving socket in the chassis connector.

#24

Timing belt replacement day!

I pulled back the covers, and the belt, whilst not having any cracks, does look quite shiny. I would be concerned driving any distance. In all my years of driving, I’ve never had a snapped belt, so I see no reason to chance the unpleasant experience at this point in time.

I’ve replaced the timing belt on the 3.0 V6 (ASN / BBJ) without using the cam lock tool, but it’s best to use the tool, if you have access to one. I do, so I’m using it. Definitely use it, of you’re not really experienced with replacing the belt on this motor! It’s more complex than the 2.4 / 2.6 / 2.7 / 2.8 motors, and the cams seem more keen to “jump” under valve spring tension.


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#25

Timing belt fitted, and a quick test start confirmed all’s well.

I ordered a new receiver drier, new O-rings, and torx-headed bolts. These are for the two hard lines that bolt to the condenser, as well as those that bolt to the drier. A drier that has had any pipes disconnected, and left even just 24 hours, should ideally be replaced, as it would have absorbed moisture.

I’ll also swap in the ABS module from the manual car, then after the aircon stuff has been fitted, I can button up the front end.


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#26

Sounds like you really enjoy the swaps. Looks good. Get that v8 In there

#27

Holy shit this is hilarious…the turbo devotees must hate this

Impressive dilligence. Hope it works out again. The A8 wheels on the one avant were funny…would be fitting to have them on with the A8 engine too.

#28

I received a dose of OEM goodness this arvo.


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#29

I completed stage 1 of B6 420-TS’s build.

I was quite surprised to find the driveshaft is the same on both the tip and manual. I didn’t have to swap the rear differential either - both are the same, coded ETS.

Every tip / auto to manual swap is different. With mine, there’s nothing to show it was ever a slusher. The engine harness is off the manual donor, meaning the reverse lamp issues didn’t arise, and there’s no redundant TCU connector in the electronic plenum. I also removed the cable that goes from the tip shifter, to the ignition lock, and got rid of the steering wheel, with the shifter buttons.

Also fitted from the manual donor, was the engine ECU, instrument cluster and the ABS module. Of course, the ABS module realised it was in a different home, and got pretty angry. I spent over 2 hours trying to code the damn thing, and it spent the same time saying no. One fault kept coming up - G85, steering angle sensor. It wouldn’t go away, and of course, it’s virtually impossible to code any module if there’s a DTC stored.

It turned out the steering angle sensor was bad, and after swapping in the one from the manual donor, the code disappeared, and I was able to successfully code the ABS module. No more beeps!

I have an intermittent oxygen sensor - B2/S2, which I’ll replace tomorrow. I’ll also wrap things up with the clutch switch.

Pictures!


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#30

I just need to get the engine professionally cleaned, and charge the aircon with gas, then it’s done.

#31

I hooked up my clutch switch today, took about 30 minutes in total. Took the car for a short test drive, and tested cruise control. All working as it should. So the driver’s knee bolster has been replaced, the interior looks more like a car should.

The engine was really filthy, old leaked oil from bad valve cover gaskets, that had collected grime and dust over time. I fitted new gaskets when I did the timing belt job, so that cured the leak. But the oily legacy…

I gave the engine a thorough steam clean, after dousing it liberally in TFR. I did this with the engine at operating temperature, and still running. It came up pretty good. Some pictures:


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#32

If there’s one thing that worries me most, it’s the thought of a snapped hood release cable. How many B6 users have a plan B in place, in the event of the cable breaking?

I’ve actually seen a B6 2.5 V6 TDI Quattro Sport, with a broken cable. It was taken to Audi, and 2 hours labour later, the hood was still firmly locked. In the end, the hood was destroyed with an angle grinder. The V6 TDI motor takes up much more space than the 3.0 V6 gasser, and getting to the latch from underneath the car proved a dead loss. Imagine the same with the B6 S4…

I have looked at the latch assembly, and observed that, like the B5, the latch is designed for both LHD and RHD cars. Meaning a cable can be fitted to the latch from either side. I am going to use a heavy duty electronic solenoid to operate the latch from the vacant LHD cable attachment point. I’m going to measure the pull force require to operate the release lever, and order an appropriate solenoid.

#33

Since the manual swap, and engine replacement, I’ve put 3000 miles on the car, it’s been faultless.

I ordered a pair of H&R hubcentric 15mm wheel spacers, with extended bolts for the rear, this will give me an ET of 30. I’m running the original 7.5"x17" wheels, with 235/45x17 rubber. I’ll have a toy with the fronts, and see what I need there. I want the wheels to fill the arches, I will eventually get a set of 8.5"x18" wheels, with 255/35x18 rubber, so I’ll need to keep those within the arches. I’m still on stock Sport suspension, though I’ll go a bit lower.

Since 'FUNK" is pretty important to me, and I’ve got no use for a card / cup holder, I also picked these up from my local dealer this arvo.


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They’ve been on back order for over a week. I’ve also ordered the switch holder / insert to replace the card holder. I will also be losing the cup holder on the other side of the console, and ordering a mixture of B7 blanks, passenger airbag warning, PDC and electric rear blind switch. Yes, I’ve picked up an OEM B6 sedan automatic rear blind, which I’ll be adapting to fit the Avant.

#34

I’ve noticed though my Avant is reasonably low for a stock car, it’s got a slight reverse rake. The front sits slightly higher than the rear.

Obviously, this is due to the manual gearbox swap. The original tiptronic transmission is a lot heavier than the 6-speed manual, and of course, automatic cars have stiffer springs at the front. A quick solution would be to swap the front struts for those of the manual donor, but I don’t think it’s worth the effort, fitting 124,000-mile springs and dampers.

I’m not a fan of height-adjustable coilovers, so I’ll be going with Bilstein Sport dampers, and Eibach lowering springs.

I’ve ordered H&R wheel spacers, with matching extended bolts - 12 and 15mm, that will address what my car’s currently suffering from - a bad case of “Wheel Recession”.