B6 420-TS - The Build

B6 A4
#22

I finally completed the bulk of the work on B6 420-TS. The motor and manual transmission have been installed, and she’s running great.

With regards to coding for manual transmission…I didn’t go that route. I simply used the manual harness on the donor engine, with the matching ECU. I also used the donor car’s instrument cluster, and of course, the car fired up right away.

I still have the ABS module coded for automatic transmission, and with the TCU and shifter no longer in the car, there’s no way to code it for manual. I ended up removing the ABS module from the manual donor car, and tomorrow, I’ll fit it, no coding will be required.

The left hand downpipe / catalyst flexi joint was so rotten, it practically fell apart, just when I was about to install the engine and gearbox. Luckily, I was able to use the downpipe from the original Tiptronic application. With the ZF5 tip transmission being so big, the downpipe has more than enough clearance from the 6-speed manual.

I have not fitted the front end, as I want to replace the timing belt tomorrow. Clutch all bled, I just need to swap the rear differential, then all the underbody stuff is done.

The previous owner had some nasty exhaust sleeves joining the downpipes to the rest of the exhaust. I mean, real nasty. A quick call to Audi, and 30 minutes later, a pair of OEM clamping sleeves were delivered.

Some pictures.

The dead left-hand downpipe, due to flexi joint failure. I’m buying a new flexi, and having it welded in:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0285_zpsrfv0buuy.jpg

OEM goodness:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0284_zpsdiwqgeao.jpg

Fitted:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0289_zps1wtantgf.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0288_zps0mnm10sa.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0287_zpspnyztwzd.jpg

How she is:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0283_zpsr4sauuw5.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0282_zpsvyp6qvlm.jpg

#23

I still need to wire in the clutch switch, but I won’t need to take the ECU connector apart, as since the harness is from a manual car, it’s already got the wire in location #39.

I just need to wire up to the receiving socket in the chassis connector.

#24

Timing belt replacement day!

I pulled back the covers, and the belt, whilst not having any cracks, does look quite shiny. I would be concerned driving any distance. In all my years of driving, I’ve never had a snapped belt, so I see no reason to chance the unpleasant experience at this point in time.

I’ve replaced the timing belt on the 3.0 V6 (ASN / BBJ) without using the cam lock tool, but it’s best to use the tool, if you have access to one. I do, so I’m using it. Definitely use it, of you’re not really experienced with replacing the belt on this motor! It’s more complex than the 2.4 / 2.6 / 2.7 / 2.8 motors, and the cams seem more keen to “jump” under valve spring tension.


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0360_zpsxawasy2u.jpg

#25

Timing belt fitted, and a quick test start confirmed all’s well.

I ordered a new receiver drier, new O-rings, and torx-headed bolts. These are for the two hard lines that bolt to the condenser, as well as those that bolt to the drier. A drier that has had any pipes disconnected, and left even just 24 hours, should ideally be replaced, as it would have absorbed moisture.

I’ll also swap in the ABS module from the manual car, then after the aircon stuff has been fitted, I can button up the front end.


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0510_zps7nuw5jcm.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0512_zpsfq99gfay.jpg


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http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0513_zps9fcm13sh.jpg

#26

Sounds like you really enjoy the swaps. Looks good. Get that v8 In there

#27

Holy shit this is hilarious…the turbo devotees must hate this

Impressive dilligence. Hope it works out again. The A8 wheels on the one avant were funny…would be fitting to have them on with the A8 engine too.

#28

I received a dose of OEM goodness this arvo.


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0383_zpsxuguzvr4.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0382_zps1hxrekoh.jpg

#29

I completed stage 1 of B6 420-TS’s build.

I was quite surprised to find the driveshaft is the same on both the tip and manual. I didn’t have to swap the rear differential either - both are the same, coded ETS.

Every tip / auto to manual swap is different. With mine, there’s nothing to show it was ever a slusher. The engine harness is off the manual donor, meaning the reverse lamp issues didn’t arise, and there’s no redundant TCU connector in the electronic plenum. I also removed the cable that goes from the tip shifter, to the ignition lock, and got rid of the steering wheel, with the shifter buttons.

Also fitted from the manual donor, was the engine ECU, instrument cluster and the ABS module. Of course, the ABS module realised it was in a different home, and got pretty angry. I spent over 2 hours trying to code the damn thing, and it spent the same time saying no. One fault kept coming up - G85, steering angle sensor. It wouldn’t go away, and of course, it’s virtually impossible to code any module if there’s a DTC stored.

It turned out the steering angle sensor was bad, and after swapping in the one from the manual donor, the code disappeared, and I was able to successfully code the ABS module. No more beeps!

I have an intermittent oxygen sensor - B2/S2, which I’ll replace tomorrow. I’ll also wrap things up with the clutch switch.

Pictures!


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0454_zpsdwjt6dj5.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0455_zpsptv1et8r.jpg


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#30

I just need to get the engine professionally cleaned, and charge the aircon with gas, then it’s done.

#31

I hooked up my clutch switch today, took about 30 minutes in total. Took the car for a short test drive, and tested cruise control. All working as it should. So the driver’s knee bolster has been replaced, the interior looks more like a car should.

The engine was really filthy, old leaked oil from bad valve cover gaskets, that had collected grime and dust over time. I fitted new gaskets when I did the timing belt job, so that cured the leak. But the oily legacy…

I gave the engine a thorough steam clean, after dousing it liberally in TFR. I did this with the engine at operating temperature, and still running. It came up pretty good. Some pictures:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0531_zpsvgytjecs.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0538_zpsjjrhwp5m.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0534_zpsmpyq2joo.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0530_zpscetudrh5.jpg

#32

If there’s one thing that worries me most, it’s the thought of a snapped hood release cable. How many B6 users have a plan B in place, in the event of the cable breaking?

I’ve actually seen a B6 2.5 V6 TDI Quattro Sport, with a broken cable. It was taken to Audi, and 2 hours labour later, the hood was still firmly locked. In the end, the hood was destroyed with an angle grinder. The V6 TDI motor takes up much more space than the 3.0 V6 gasser, and getting to the latch from underneath the car proved a dead loss. Imagine the same with the B6 S4…

I have looked at the latch assembly, and observed that, like the B5, the latch is designed for both LHD and RHD cars. Meaning a cable can be fitted to the latch from either side. I am going to use a heavy duty electronic solenoid to operate the latch from the vacant LHD cable attachment point. I’m going to measure the pull force require to operate the release lever, and order an appropriate solenoid.

#33

Since the manual swap, and engine replacement, I’ve put 3000 miles on the car, it’s been faultless.

I ordered a pair of H&R hubcentric 15mm wheel spacers, with extended bolts for the rear, this will give me an ET of 30. I’m running the original 7.5"x17" wheels, with 235/45x17 rubber. I’ll have a toy with the fronts, and see what I need there. I want the wheels to fill the arches, I will eventually get a set of 8.5"x18" wheels, with 255/35x18 rubber, so I’ll need to keep those within the arches. I’m still on stock Sport suspension, though I’ll go a bit lower.

Since 'FUNK" is pretty important to me, and I’ve got no use for a card / cup holder, I also picked these up from my local dealer this arvo.


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1211_zpsegvrekww.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1212_zps4z0khaws.jpg

They’ve been on back order for over a week. I’ve also ordered the switch holder / insert to replace the card holder. I will also be losing the cup holder on the other side of the console, and ordering a mixture of B7 blanks, passenger airbag warning, PDC and electric rear blind switch. Yes, I’ve picked up an OEM B6 sedan automatic rear blind, which I’ll be adapting to fit the Avant.

#34

I’ve noticed though my Avant is reasonably low for a stock car, it’s got a slight reverse rake. The front sits slightly higher than the rear.

Obviously, this is due to the manual gearbox swap. The original tiptronic transmission is a lot heavier than the 6-speed manual, and of course, automatic cars have stiffer springs at the front. A quick solution would be to swap the front struts for those of the manual donor, but I don’t think it’s worth the effort, fitting 124,000-mile springs and dampers.

I’m not a fan of height-adjustable coilovers, so I’ll be going with Bilstein Sport dampers, and Eibach lowering springs.

I’ve ordered H&R wheel spacers, with matching extended bolts - 12 and 15mm, that will address what my car’s currently suffering from - a bad case of “Wheel Recession”.

#35

I’ve been looking at dash options. I like the look of the Seat Exeo / Audi A4 B6/7 Convertible dash, it looks so much more modern than that of the B6/7 sedan and Avant.

I’ve made an offer on one, just waiting to see what the seller is willing to accept.

#36

Aircon all gassed up, and blowing Siberian cold:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1213_zpswjkvmbsq.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1214_zpsmbkg1qum.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1215_zpshr5uj812.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1216_zpsg6wn2ixe.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1217_zpsh0ixwwss.jpg

#37

I like the OEM 6-spoke 7.5"x17" alloy wheels, though with an offset of 45, they sit quite inboard of the wheel wells:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1642_zpswljomowy.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1643_zpswjyhfzif.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1644_zpsxactayf7.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1645_zps0gywp2tv.jpg

#38

The inboard stance was soon addressed with a set of fairly beefy wheel spacers. 12mm fronts, 15mm rears. This will give an ET value for the front and rear, of 33 and 30 respectively.

There are some cheap items out there, that are not machined dead flat, causing a nasty vibration at speed, despite being hubcentric. I opted for H&R spacers, with the appropriate extended bolts, with the same “bowl” profile as the originals, for OEM wheels:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1641_zpstkhv7vxh.jpg

And the resultant wheel position, in relation to the wheel wells:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1651_zps7ew8qw3r.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1652_zpsvbljz519.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1653_zps904w2qle.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1654_zps5lc74zak.jpg

#39

Some random shots:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0975_zpsonvwvyrj.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0976_zpsatnr9a3e.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0978_zpsfxslevxn.jpg


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_0979_zpsrowzjluv.jpg


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http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1664_zpsndbjpznu.jpg

#40

I think Denim Blue Pearl looks pretty good against the fall background. Blue contrasts nicely against the reds, browns, yellows, greens and russet golds:


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1818_zpsqqizmktj.jpg


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http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/NaijaGuy/Audi%20B6%20420-S/IMG_1824_zpsgihkhge6.jpg

#41

I’ve been looking at styling options for my B6.

I love the Votex kit, and I wouldn’t trade it for the more common USP kit. I was a bit hesitant and undecided about going the B7 RS4 route, as besides preferring the B6 front and rear to the B7, I want to retain the Votex kit. Oddly enough, a comment Old Guy made a while back, about losing the join between the Votex front and rear aprons and the bumpers, kind of decided things for me.

It’s a big undertaking, making the front and rear bumpers one piece, a lot more complex task than doing the same on stock B6 bumpers. As the Votex kit is an underlay, meaning the lower section / valence of the original bumper will need to be cut away, to allow for a flush and seamless plastic welding, and smoothing of the Votex apron. The only concession to modifying the Votex rear apron, will be the exhaust tailpipe cutouts. They’ll be reworked, to accept larger oval tails, but retaining the Votex design.

I was at my local Volkswagen / Audi Trade Outlet, and after casually enquiringly about B7 RS4 parts, I was surprised at how low the prices had dropped. I intend to go with the B7 RS4 bodywork, without losing the very essence of the B6 and Votex front and rear, albeit blended into the original bumpers, and the lowers widened to mate to the B7 RS4 arches. These are being “frenched” into the B6 rear quarter panels, below the swage line, retaining the B6 fuel filler flap. The rear doors will be reworked, to match the B7 RS4 flares. The B7 rear quarters will be fitted from the original B6 spot welds in the door shuts. The B7 RS4 front fenders will be cut up similarly, with the B6 fenders cut in the same areas, to accept the B7 RS4 bulges, starting from the trailing edge, by the front doors, again, below the B6 swage lines, to the lower leading edge, by the bumper.

I’m in the middle of a move, so it’ll be after settling in my new location.