B6 420-TS - The Build

I’ve been looking at styling options for my B6.

I love the Votex kit, and I wouldn’t trade it for the more common USP kit. I was a bit hesitant and undecided about going the B7 RS4 route, as besides preferring the B6 front and rear to the B7, I want to retain the Votex kit. Oddly enough, a comment Old Guy made a while back, about losing the join between the Votex front and rear aprons and the bumpers, kind of decided things for me.

It’s a big undertaking, making the front and rear bumpers one piece, a lot more complex task than doing the same on stock B6 bumpers. As the Votex kit is an underlay, meaning the lower section / valence of the original bumper will need to be cut away, to allow for a flush and seamless plastic welding, and smoothing of the Votex apron. The only concession to modifying the Votex rear apron, will be the exhaust tailpipe cutouts. They’ll be reworked, to accept larger oval tails, but retaining the Votex design.

I was at my local Volkswagen / Audi Trade Outlet, and after casually enquiringly about B7 RS4 parts, I was surprised at how low the prices had dropped. I intend to go with the B7 RS4 bodywork, without losing the very essence of the B6 and Votex front and rear, albeit blended into the original bumpers, and the lowers widened to mate to the B7 RS4 arches. These are being “frenched” into the B6 rear quarter panels, below the swage line, retaining the B6 fuel filler flap. The rear doors will be reworked, to match the B7 RS4 flares. The B7 rear quarters will be fitted from the original B6 spot welds in the door shuts. The B7 RS4 front fenders will be cut up similarly, with the B6 fenders cut in the same areas, to accept the B7 RS4 bulges, starting from the trailing edge, by the front doors, again, below the B6 swage lines, to the lower leading edge, by the bumper.

I’m in the middle of a move, so it’ll be after settling in my new location.

The donor car was picked up, and taken away by the wreckers today. And is now on its way to the Vehicle End Of Life facility. Sounds horribly final!


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Some may recall, I have been considering having a second option to pop the hood. Cable breakages are pretty common, and the thought of a locked hood, and very slim means of getting it open, is a major worry.

I’ve seen this happen in a dealership, after exhausting all options, the hood was destroyed with an angle grinder. This was on a 2004 B6 2.5 V6 TDI Quattro Sport. Very limited space to work in.

I have considered using an electric solenoid, and I still will. But in the meantime, I’m going with a second cable. The hood latch is common to both LHD and RHD cars, with the release lever on both sides. I have ordered a LHD release handle, and cable. I will install this, using the stock LHD holes for mounting the handle, and feeding the cable into the engine bay, through a grommet.

All the hardware should be with me tomorrow, and I’ll document the procedure, it should be the same as adding a RHD hood release to a LHD car.

As many on here already know, I’m purely an Audi 077-series V8 fan. I know that engine as much as many know the 1.8T - that is, intimately.

I am building a V8 turbo, for B6 420-TS. From the 3.0-specific thread I started, considering boosting the ASN / AVK motor, the response and reception that thread generated was interesting. There are mentions of the aluminium block, not being suitable to hold decent boost.

Well, the issue is not the aluminium block being the issue. It’s the very internal design. The limitations are deep within the guts. The C5 RS6 block is aluminium, and copes well with updated turbos. What it all boils down to is this:

An aluminium block, that was originally naturally-aspirated, but with forged pistons, and the correct rods will hold boost fine.
A cast-iron block, that was originally naturally-aspirated, retaining the stock cast pistons and inappropriate rods will [B]not[/B] hold boost.  

The above applies to the aluminium 3.0 V6 and 4.2 V8.

I was lucky enough to purchase a short C5 RS6 (BCY) block. It came from a front-ended car, the impact was enough to tear the aircon compressor and left-hand engine bracket clean off the block, so the threaded mounting bosses are shot. My plan was to transfer the pistons and rods into a regular 40V block, and that plan is still valid.

However…I was going to use a D2 4.2 V8 40V motor as the base. I have worked with sw\aps, involving both the C5/D2 V8, as well as the D3 V8. They are similar, though in the course of my last B5 V8 conversion, I discovered the D3 block is very different to that of the C5/D2 blocks. It is based heavily upon the C5 RS6 motor, larger rear end, designed for a larger flywheel, thicker webbing, making the block stiffer, and the coolant passages are significantly different, similar size to that of the C5/D2 blocks, but with more metal, meaning thicker walls.

And this is where I have decided to make a slight revision. I’ve located a complete D3 4.2 V8 40V, from a 2005 car. I will be building this, using the C5 RS6 pistons and rods, but not the RS6 crank. I don’t want the 10-bolt flywheel mounting boss, as this severely limits the flywheel options open to me. I will be rebuilding the heads, using OEM C5 RS6 exhaust valves, and stock 40V intakes. Intake manifolds will be custom. I do have a C5 RS6 single-stage intake, but I doubt I’ll be using it.

Building my 2000 B5 A4 Quattro, with a D3 (BFM) 4.2 V8 40V taught me a lot, the block similarities to the C5 RS6, the head similarities to the D2 S8, including the same dual-stage intake, and very similar camshaft profiles. And, the machining and drilling required to bolt a C5 RS6 motor to a stock 01E 6-speed, without the need for a length-increasing adapter plate (RS6 guys, take note).

My D3 4.2 V8 40V motor. I’ll be making a 554-mile round trip to pick it up next weekend. I’m hiring a van, I definitely wouldn’t put that in the back of my Avant.


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Well, the BFM engine didn’t kind of work for me.

The seller wanted to strip most of the ancillaries off, which I was not keen on. He wasn’t willing to come down in price either, so I let it go. I’m most likely going to purchase a complete running D3 4.2 V8 Quattro, as a donor car, that way everything I’ll possibly want will be there. I’ll also get my money back and some, when I part out the rest, leaving more than enough to purchase a cheap R&D B6 A4.

As for the exterior, I’ve started sourcing B7 RS4 Avant body panels. One of the most important aspects of bodywork, is finding a decent shop to work with. One that has a ton of custom cars that have been through their workshop, and turned out well. A shop that just does insurance / accident crash repairs may be good, but may not be interested in doing any work that’s beyond stock.

I have located a shop, and I’ve seen some of their work, which is pretty good. They also have a handful of magazine-featured cars under their belt, one of these is a 2009 VW Golf V R32 clone. Built from a lowly 2.0 TDI, it’s now AWD, and pretty much an R32 with a diesel engine. I looked at the welding, the seams, and they’re pretty much like a factory car.

I’m going to see the shop owner tomorrow, and have a long chat with him. It pays to build up some sort of relationship with a shop’s owner.

My B6 will be at 129,000 miles by the end of the week…

I was lucky enough to snag a set of B7 S4 aluminium alloy wheels, with tyres. The wheels are 8"x18" with an offset of 45, shod in 235/40x18 Continental Contact 2.

The wheels are all straight, though there’s a bit of kerb rash. I was going to give them a clean, and fit them as they are, but i’ve decided to get them refurbished. There’s a legendary wheel refurbishing firm here - Spit and Polish who’s been around since 1984. I have used them in the past, during my Type 85 Audi Coupé Quattro, Ur Quattro and S2. They’re simply the best. They also refurbish wheels for dealerships all over the country.

I’m kind of undecided as to what color to go with - standard silver or white. I think white will go well with the Denim Blue Pearl paintwork. I’ll have the stock 7.5"x17" wheels refurbished too, but anthracite with the faces diamond cut and lacquered.

The good thing about Spit and Polish, is their collection and delivery service. Pick up on Wednesday, delivered on Saturday, or pick up on Saturday, deliver on Wednesday. I’m going to strip the tyres off, and get them picked up. Pictures once they’re all fitted!

I had the tyres stripped from my B7 S4 wheels this arvo. They’ll be picked up for refurb sometime next week. I’m still very much undecided as far as colour goes, though.

I guess I’ll surprise myself. [;)]


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Suspension / drivetrain items I need to purchase. Items in green I’ve already gotten hold of. I’ll be updating this list, as purchases are made, and more items are being added.

B6 S4 front spindles.
B6 S4 front lower arms.
B6 S4 front upper arms.
B6 A4 / S4 front sway bar C-links.
Built B6 3.0 / C5 2.5 V6 TDI 01E 6-speed gearbox.
B6 A4 3.0 Quattro (pre-2002) 4.11:1 rear differential.
B6 A4 3.0 Quattro (pre-2002) 01E shifter.
Brembo 6-piston front calipers, rotors TBC.
Brembo rear calipers, and Brembo parking brake calipers, rotors TBC.
B6 S4 KW V3 or Eibach Pro-Street adjustable coilovers.
B6 A4 2.5 V6 TDI Quattro front axles and 01E gearbox output flanges (130mm).
Vibratechnics aluminium Motorsport engine mounts (will work for my 3.0 V6, and the D3 4.2 V8 40V).
Custom V8 40V solid billet steel flywheel.
B5 A4 Quattro front subframe.
B6 custom solid rear differential mounts.
B7 RS4 OEM complete exhaust (cat-back) with active rear mufflers.
B7 RS4 Avant rear bumper.
B6 RS4-style hood grille.

With my engine being built over the winter months, I’ve decided to look into the exterior.

I love the current colour, Denim Blue Pearl Effect, but with genuine B7 RS4 panels, I need something more striking, that will show off the curves and bulges to greater advantage.

I want to stay with blue for obvious reasons - to avoid having to paint the engine bay, plus I like blue anyway. The new blue will extend to the door shuts, the entire luggage compartment, under the hood and top of the fenders.

My blue options are:

Pelican / Kingfisher Blue.
Sprint Blue.
Riviera Blue.
Ara Blue.
Sepang Blue.

Any thoughts guys?

Today, I pulled the trigger on a couple more OEM parts. At the prices, it would have been rude to ignore them:

2008 B7 RS4 Avant OEM cat-back system. With the vacuum-operated active rear mufflers.
2008 B7 RS4 Avant rear bumper. Lovely wideness.

I’m picking up the exhaust tomorrow, and the bumper on Saturday.

Things are moving on.

The B7 RS4 Avant rear bumper is not mint, but as I’ll be chopping it up, to graft the middle of the B6 upper section in, the area around the B6 tailgate and under the B6’s tails, it doesn’t really matter. I’m pretty stoked.

The cat-back looks like new. Obviously, like all current Audi models, it’s stainless steel, and it’ll polish up like new. Time to crack out my metal polishing kit.

I want this car to be as close to an OEM B6 RS4 Avant as I can possibly get it.

B7 RS4 Avant rear bumper:


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B7 RS4 Avant cat-back, with vacuum solenoid-operated active rear mufflers:


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So today, I did a 377-mile round trip to pick up my B7 RS4 Avant cat-back. Damn, that thing is insanely heavy, no shit.

I almost feel like throwing it onto my car, with the 3.0 still in place, I need to exercise some self control. I’m going to polish it up over the weekend. On Saturday though, I’ve got a 520-mile round trip, to pick up the B7 RS4 Avant rear bumper. Ugh.

I was due to pick up my B7 RS4 Avant rear bumper tomorrow. After looking at the distance to drive, it worked out greater than my original 520-mile round trip estimate. It’s actually 237 miles each way, making the return trip more than 570 miles.

I ended up persuading the seller to ship it. For the £22 delivery charge, it’s a no brainer. It’ll cost more than a full tank of gas, with a full tank costing £67…

My shop is pretty stacked up with work, so I’m going to do the B7 RS4 panelling myself. So, I’ll be taking an angle grinder to my car, removing the sections that count, and trimming the B7 RS4 Avant rear quarters to match, losing every trace of B7 in the process.

My next step is to purchase a mig welder. It’s a while since I welded, but I’ve never forgotten how. The rust will drop off, after a 30-minute practice session on some old panels…

I scored a great deal today, on a B6 RS4-style hood grille. It matches the lower grilles in my Votex front bumper perfectly.

This bumper will form the basis of my B6 RS4, the OEM upper bumper and the lower Votex apron fused together as one, and widened to match the B7 RS4 bulges, which themselves will be welded into the B6’s fenders.

Updated list!

Suspension / drivetrain items I need to purchase. Items in green I’ve already gotten hold of. I’ll be updating this list, as purchases are made, and more items are being added.

B6 S4 front spindles.
B6 S4 front lower arms.
B6 S4 front upper arms.
B6 A4 / S4 front sway bar C-links.
Built B6 3.0 / C5 2.5 V6 TDI 01E 6-speed gearbox.
B6 A4 3.0 Quattro (pre-2002) 4.11:1 rear differential.
B6 A4 3.0 Quattro (pre-2002) 01E shifter.
Brembo 6-piston front calipers, rotors TBC.
Brembo rear calipers, and Brembo parking brake calipers, rotors TBC.
B6 S4 KW V3 or Eibach Pro-Street adjustable coilovers.
B6 A4 2.5 V6 TDI Quattro front axles and 01E gearbox output flanges (130mm).
Vibratechnics aluminium Motorsport engine mounts (will work for my 3.0 V6, and the D3 4.2 V8 40V).
Custom V8 40V solid billet steel flywheel.
B5 A4 Quattro front subframe.
B6 custom solid rear differential mounts.
B7 RS4 OEM complete exhaust (cat-back) with active rear mufflers.
B7 RS4 Avant rear bumper.
B6 RS4-style hood grille.
B7 RS4 side skirts.
B7 RS4 fenders.
B7 RS4 Avant rear quarters.
B6 S4 BiXenon headlamps.
B7 RS4 front wheel arch liners.
B7 RS4 rear wheel arch liners.

As many may already know, one of the B6 A4’s issues is corrosion. And besides the fender / front wheel arches, one of the areas with a blatant moisture trap, is the lower door blades. Moisture and grit can sit between the plastic, and the metalwork. Over time, the grit will attack the paint, due to vibration, and expose the vulnerable steel beneath.

Short of removing the blades at least twice a year, to allow any accumulated dirt to be washed, and the channels dried, there’s no way of keeping the Red Terror at bay.

I have decided to lose mine. With the amount of welding involved in building a B6 RS4 - rear quarters, as well as welding the B7 RS4 fender bulges into the stock B6 fenders, having steel welded to the bottom of the doors, is a minor affair.

I have the doors off my Akoya Silver sedan, and I’ll be using them. I have removed the door blades, I’ll drop them off at a steel fabricating shop, they will replicate them in steel, with the appropriate return lips. I will weld these to the bottoms of my doors, and transfer the lower sealing rubber strips. I’ll have to spot weld, taking my time, allowing the metal time to cool down in between, to prevent warpage.

The area between the steel “blades” and the doors will be filled, giving a seamless finish.


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I pulled my B7 RS4 exhaust from my storage today, and gave it an appraisal.

It’s in perfect condition, the cut-off flaps move freely. I just gave it a quick wipe, but it’ll polish up great.

As you can see from the picture (the left-hand rear section, marked with masking tape) I had to cut it. There was no way it would fit in the rear of any Avant, not even the much larger A6 C6/7. It was just too wide. I cut the left-hand rear section off. It’s not a big deal - if you purchase most Audi genuine rear sections, you’ll have to cut the old one off, in the right place.

I’ve ordered the appropriate sleeves from Audi. I ordered 4, as I might just end up cutting the right-hand rear section off from the main system, too, in the same place. It’ll certainly make it easier to mount in place, it’s quite heavy.


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This was left in my porch sometime today:


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Time to purchase a plastic welding kit, I’m going to be pretty busy with this baby. [wrench]

My B6 RS4-style grille turned up today. It’s pretty well made, too. It has the option of badged, or de-badged. I prefer the badged look.


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