B7 RS4 JHM Stage 1+ Killer Chiller Install

B6/7 S4/RS4
#21

You have summarized it spot on and the 20whp was peak power.
Torque figure gains were minimal, 1st pull resulted in the same but the 2nd pull did produce 4nm more.

It won’t give you more HP than what you already have in the car. All in all the KC will keep you out of heatsoak longer and it will bring those intake temps down so much faster if you have done some hard pulls.
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The dyno comparrison was done out of curiosity just to measure whether there would be any gains. And my test definitely indicate so but as mentioned before it would only give back some of the power that you normally loose due to heatsoak, it won’t add power which you don’t already have in the car. If that make sense ;D

#22

Thank you rs4fan for posting all of this information. I have not posted much in a long time because I have been extremely busy with a lot of things.

Your install looks great and hopefully you have the soleniod valve by now. It really does make a difference with being able to switch into single zone for maximum cooling.

I installed my temp sensor in the side of the intercooler by the outlet so that I got the most consistent readings that I could with the least effort.

Would recommend that you lower how much AC refrigerant is in your car. My AC compressor died recently so I am having to replace it. Thank you very much for the lifetime warranty through FCP! To try to prevent this from happening again I going to lower how much refrigerant that I am using to keep the pressures more in line with what the stock numbers are. Over the past weekend a friend of mine let me borrow his car to check everything and on his car I saw 30 psi on the low side and 155-160 psi on the high side so I am going to try to mirror that. Before I had something like 37-40 psi on the low side and 155-160 on the high side. Those pressure readings are by using manifold gauges that hook to the service fittings. The vagcom pressure readings were like 12 bar stock vs 14 bar for mine in similar 50 degrees F conditions.

#23

No problem, I did noticed your absence. ;D

[quote]Your install looks great and hopefully you have the soleniod valve by now. It really does make a difference with being able to switch into single zone for maximum cooling.
[/quote]
Thanks Jimmy, and No, haven’t received the solenoid as yet, really disappointing, will call Joe again he doesn’t respond on my emails. :frowning:

[quote]Would recommend that you lower how much AC refrigerant is in your car. My AC compressor died recently so I am having to replace it. Thank you very much for the lifetime warranty through FCP! To try to prevent this from happening again I going to lower how much refrigerant that I am using to keep the pressures more in line with what the stock numbers are. Over the past weekend a friend of mine let me borrow his car to check everything and on his car I saw 30 psi on the low side and 155-160 psi on the high side so I am going to try to mirror that. Before I had something like 37-40 psi on the low side and 155-160 on the high side. Those pressure readings are by using manifold gauges that hook to the service fittings. The vagcom pressure readings were like 12 bar stock vs 14 bar for mine in similar 50 degrees F conditions.
[/quote]
Thanks, will check those refrigerant levels again but if my memory serves me right we loaded with around 17-19oz’s or 550ml. Not sure what the pressures are though, I did check ones with Vagcom and I saw figures of both 14 & 16 Bar, must be those you are referring too! Now will the RS4 and S4 be similar in that regard?
[/quote]

#24

Time to update, at long last manage to sort the gremlins with the vFiz system and my sensors out so I am now totally satisfied with the placement of the sensors and the readings. The temps have been verified with an external meter and readings correspond with the temps from the vFiz which confirms that the firmware and internal calibrations are correct.

For reference I am just going to re-post my Sensor names as displayed on the DIS by the vFiz system. Also added the Boost sensor which I now have connected.

Explanation of the short display names so that it make sense.
KCT - In-line sensor reading of coolant between the Chiller and Intercooler.
RVCT - Sensor reading of reservoir coolant
IMAT - Air intake Sensor Post Intercooler
IAT - The OEM intake reading from the MAF sensor before the blower, so that’s underhood intake temps
BST - Boost reading from the Intake Manifold

In the previous pics of the temp readings all readings were skewed except for the RVCT(Reservoir Water) sensor. I also mentioned at the time that Mario from Qmatis was in the process of shipping over a new system to me which I now have installed in the car.

Before I post some pics just an update on the changes I made and the work rounds to fix the things I weren’t satisfied with.

Firstly, the new vFiz fixed the skewed reading from the in-line temp sensor between the Chiller and the Intercooler. Common sense suggested that it should read a few degrees cooler than the Reservoir sensor, which it didn’t >:( The Thermocouple manufacturer wasn’t concerned as it was within parameters but it irritated the hell out of me ??? Anyway, all good now as can be seen from the pics below.

Secondly, as mentioned before, in my haste to get all the sensors installed I placed the sensor for the IATs after the Intercooler just behind the throttlebody ::slight_smile: Bad placement, as explained before the Throttlebody butterfly diverted air flow away from the sensor probe so those reading were way off. Moved that sensor to the intake silicone hose between the Intercooler and Manifold and the results speak for itself ;D

Last but not least, fortunately I never hooked up a Boost sensor when I did the initial install so I could now use the vacant tapped hole in the manifold, that use to house the IAT sensor, for my boost pickup. Got a suitale NPT boost nipple and hooked that up to the vFiz boost sensor.

Display of DIS with new vFiz - In Garage

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On the Road

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Ok, so what’s outstanding? The current system still run “Dual Zone” only, meaning both the Chiller and the Cabin is getting cooled down. As per Jimmy’s writeup I ran into the same problem when switching the Drag Valve to bypass the cabin to enable Single Zone. As intended the cabin does get bypassed but the the Chiller temps also started rising instead of getting colder. The solution is to install another Solenoid on the High Side of the AC system anywhere before the orifice tube. Jimmy explained that in his writeup as well so that’s something I still need to do.

As things would have it though, the long overdue Solenoid eventually got deliverred today from Joe @Kincaid so I need to find the time and energy to pull the bumper again to get that installed. Will report back again once that’s done. Based on Jimmy’s tests I do expect the temps to go down even lower due to all the AC coolant being directed toward the Chiller.

But, as things stand I am pretty satisfied with the results of the system, definitely a must do mod for any boosted car with a separate Air to Water intercooler setup.

#25

amazing work…and amazing results!!!

well done my friend!!! will be in touch for my order!! excellent cooling effect.

have you measured the the advance gains?

#26

Wow those are great results!

Just to be clear, the temperature reading above the VFIZ readings is ambient right?

If so then I feel like your engine is sucking in some hot air from the engine compartment because I get really close to ambient when driving around at the IAT reading from the MAF.

Either way I don’t get anywhere close to that cold of a temperature difference when in dual zone mode. It looks like between a 12.5-16.5C/22.5-29.7F difference from ambient to after the intercooler. Instead I see like a 2.7C/5F difference in dual zone mode on my car. Makes me wonder if my Killer Chiller box is getting heat soaked from not having enough air flow being below the driver’s side headlight. I might have to strongly consider moving my KC unit and redoing the hose setup on the front of my car.

Oh and I finally did testing with solenoid valve turned off/stopping refrigerant flow to the cabin and with the drag valve on/off. Changing the drag valve position didn’t make any difference with what I noticed. So that makes me think that the drag valve is totally not needed on these cars.

#27

Thanks, will be doing some logging soon and post those results.

#28

[quote]Just to be clear, the temperature reading above the VFIZ readings is ambient right?
[/quote]
Correct Jimmy, that is actual ambient temperature.

[quote]If so then I feel like your engine is sucking in some hot air from the engine compartment because I get really close to ambient when driving around at the IAT reading from the MAF.
[/quote]
It definitely is considering that its an open K&N filter sitting just infront of the OEM MAF. Unless I get that closed up there is no way to get those underhood intake temps down. Well, I am sure in a few weeks from now when our winter is in full swing those temps will get a bit closer to ambient whilst the car is on the open road however I don’t think it will get close in traffic conditions though.

Why would yours be so close to ambient, do you have a different intake setup on yours?

[quote]Oh and I finally did testing with solenoid valve turned off/stopping refrigerant flow to the cabin and with the drag valve on/off. Changing the drag valve position didn’t make any difference with what I noticed. So that makes me think that the drag valve is totally not needed on these cars.
[/quote]
Good, thanks for the confirmation. I still have to fit the solenoid but my gutfeel was that I won’t need the drag valve once the solenoid valve was installed. So buying the Drag valve was a waste but to be fair to Joe from Kincaid he shipped me the Solenoid valve with hose fittings complelety free of charge so that was a real good gesture from his side.

#29

Correct Jimmy, that is actual ambient temperature.

[quote]If so then I feel like your engine is sucking in some hot air from the engine compartment because I get really close to ambient when driving around at the IAT reading from the MAF.
[/quote]
It definitely is considering that its an open K&N filter sitting just infront of the OEM MAF. Unless I get that closed up there is no way to get those underhood intake temps down. Well, I am sure in a few weeks from now when our winter is in full swing those temps will get a bit closer to ambient whilst the car is on the open road however I don’t think it will get close in traffic conditions though.

Why would yours be so close to ambient, do you have a different intake setup on yours?

[quote]Oh and I finally did testing with solenoid valve turned off/stopping refrigerant flow to the cabin and with the drag valve on/off. Changing the drag valve position didn’t make any difference with what I noticed. So that makes me think that the drag valve is totally not needed on these cars.
[/quote]
Good, thanks for the confirmation. I still have to fit the solenoid but my gutfeel was that I won’t need the drag valve once the solenoid valve was installed. So buying the Drag valve was a waste but to be fair to Joe from Kincaid he shipped me the Solenoid valve with hose fittings complelety free of charge so that was a real good gesture from his side.
[/quote]
Cool.

I think that it is a combination of my S4 headers being ceramic coated and wrapped so that the heat doesn’t come off the exhaust nearly as much a stock RS4 headers would. Along with my intercooler is wrapped up in reflective heat shielding so that acts a heat barrier.

He did the same for me.

I just realized that your temp readings are without the heat exchanger in the loop. Usually I have it in the loop for normal driving. So that would raise my temps in dual zone mode.

#30

Small update.

Eventually manage to install the solenoid in the high side AC line which now allows me to run the AC system in either Dual(KC + Cabin) or Single(KC Only) Zone mode. Happy with the results all tough the AC tech recon my AC pump is on its way out so I guess after 10 years it might be time to replace the pump and will do so next year during the winter time.

By default the solenoid is normally close, so I elect to run the car in that mode and only have to power the device should I need AC flow to the cabin. Its a simple setup and also eliminate the need to have any current flowing to the solenoid during normal use which for me would be around 90-95% of the time. Same with the IC Heat exchanger, I am bypassing that by default and will only use that should the AC fail or during cold spells when running the AC might not be required.

I guess this completes this install and even though I am going to run a few more tests I can with 100% certainty states that the KC system works as advertised and I think the results speaks for itself.

One more change that I will make shortly is the boost format. Currently it is displayed in Bar but I have new firmware that will show the boost in Psi I just need to get that file loaded up.

Below some Pic’s of the solenoid and some Single Zone temps.
Again, for reference the IAT is the OEM intake temp reading and the rest are as a result of the chiller. I have given an explanation of the short names earlier in the thread.

Solenoid


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Single Zone Temps


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