B7 RS4 SAI Delete

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

I want to delete my SAI system. Figured I’d start a thread since I couldn’t really find anything thorough anywhere and I had a bunch of questions.

Is it better to cap off the system at the orange circle or at the red? Red seems like it would be annoying to reach.

http://i.imgur.com/KrE91nw.png

Also what options are there to cap it? I know 2000S4 fab’d his own up, but I don’t have the resources to do that.

Is the secondary air inlet valve (4 on the diagram) and the y-pipe coming from it left as is and capped where it connects to the combi valves? Or does it need to be removed as well?

#2

If I’ve understood this properly the red would be off the cylinder head? If so, everything I’ve ever read that’s where others have done it. I’d think that’s going to have the best results.

#3

Koolade9 capped off the lines where you circled in orange. I think that you would have to remove the intake manifold to get to where the lines connect to the block where you circled in red. It would be even easier if you had the transmission out but that is a lot of work.

Call 034 Motorsports about block off plates. They sell block off plates for the 2.7T but two of the smaller two hole plates should work for your car. Here is a link to the block off plates: http://store.034motorsport.com/products/engine-components/2-7t/sai-blockoff-plate-kit-secondary-air-injection-for-2-8-2-7t-v6-belt-drive-40v-v8.html

I pulled the vacuum line from the solenoid valve to the combi valves on my car but it gets in the way whenever I have to pull the intake manifold. It doesn’t weigh much and if it is not in the way then I wouldn’t worry about it. Try disconnecting the solenoid valve and see if it sets a fault code. If a fault code sets then the valve has to stay in place and be plugged in.

#4

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w2/koolade9/Ibis%20RS4/IMG_4176_zps71e5f7c8.jpg

http://images.sodahead.com/polls/000858629/polls_smiley_300x300_answer_9_xlarge.png

#5

Went through the shop manual and it says you can do one side from under the car, but the other side requires removing a bunch of stuff. I think I’ll stick to capping it at the top part if that works.

Thanks, I sent them an email to see what they can do. I don’t mind leaving the solenoid valve there. Maybe I’ll cap off the lines outside of the manifold for now and when I pull it off again for a carbon clean I’ll cap it further down to keep things tidy.

Haha yeah. I was aware they had it… but yeah…

#6

I certainly would. I was just passing on what I’ve gathered on the subject.

#7

Look into the JHM S/C instructions bc they delete the SAI in order to install the S/C. I just deleted the SAI on my 996 and all I did was pull the pump and block off the hose that came off the pump (the pump is actuated by electronics, and the flow is only open under vacuum operated via ecu, so no reason to block off anything else). The same principal should apply here. Granted removing the extra hoses is nice, but without the block off plates, it’s much more difficult.

#8

What’s the main reason for removing the SAI? I assume you need your ecu mapping changed to code out any CEL issues. Does the Jhm map include this?

#9

If you’re catless it literally serves zero purpose. And if that’s the case, then it’s just extra crap/wires/vacuum tubes in the engine bay doing nothing. So some people like to tank it out at that point.

And yes, re-code of the ecu is needed if you have to deal with emissions, but that’s a pretty basic adjustment.

#10

The secondary air is a system that attempts to heat up the catalytic converters faster on cold starts. It’s not quite an elevated idle but you can REALLY hear it when it’s working. Makes an aftermarket exhaust 3 times louder on cold starts. Steady boomy drone enhancer basically. On the B7 S4 it was a really annoying and frankly embarrassing woo woo woo letting idle.

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=311.25

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=u0pZDqTDy3c

Sai lasts for usually 30-120 seconds. In the parking garage at work, I trigger alarms when I do a cold start and Sai kicks in as I’m cruising through the levels at 1500 rpm in first. I don’t when it doesn’t (summer etc)

#11

Good point. I guess if the combi valves are working as they should, capping off the vacuum lines from them and removing the intake hoses should theoretically be sufficient shouldn’t it? The combi valves should remain closed with no vacuum pressure.

I may have a leak in the system and since it’s just extra stuff I might as well delete it rather than spend effort tracing down where the leak is and fixing it.

#12

Is it true that this will eliminate the elevated RPMs at cold start? Also, what makes you think there might be a leak in the SAI system?