come on JFGI
http://www.bestracingtips.com/tag/shallow-stage/
The staging lights are two beams. trip the first one with your tire, then creeeeeeeeeeep up until you just barely trip the second, no more.
You’ll get 8 to 12", or and maybe 0.1s or so of untimed acceleration bonus. This is also known as “rollout”, i.e. car mags testing with black box equipment usually give 12" of “rollout”
Thanks!
I looked on google and wanted to make sure I was reading the correct material.
Google it.
Not being rude but there are tons of good online descriptions with diagrams.
Basically the stage lights, those yellow lights. There’s a good way to do it for et (shallow staging) and a good way to do it for et+rt races (deep staging) which is irrelevant to us.
I had googled it. Just wanted to make sure I was reading the right stuff. Most drag stuff I come across is rwd…a little fwd. Admittedly, probably should have just trusted my google search.
Staging is the same for everyone
Do you underhand the beams? And rollout?
From the tips thread…
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=521.msg9880#msg9880
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seems like no big thing…but it’s huge. It’s the difference between 12.9 and 13.1 for B6/7 S4/RS4 so take great care to shallow stage. Google the term shallow stage and you’ll get a better explanation with illustrations.
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Don’t tell that to Eurogear he doesn’t approve of redline shifting.
Thanks for the info. I understand the beams, but I was not aware that a full 12" separated them. My question was obviously pretty dumb… For some reason I was curious as to whether AWD would make a difference when it came to shallow staging ???
It’s not dumb at all… This is all Greek when you go for your first time. For everyone.
I went alone and hadn’t a fucking clue what to do. I didn’t know what tech inspection was. I just sat and watched a bunch of people run etc. till I was comfortable. Then I lined up and they kicked me out for not having numbers on lol. Had to go to the tech first. WTF is tech???
Cool glad you are going… tire pressure is very dependent on the track prep, temp of the track surface, and overall temp… Sunday out your way looks like low 50’s so I would start at 42 in the fronts and 38 in the backs… If you hear/feel the car spin drop 2psi and repeat until you aren’t spinning anymore… My guess if the track is prepped OK you’ll be fine at 42/38… As for timing like Saki mentioned don’t worry about reaction time, just focus on a good start and keeping the car straight as you go down the track… Try to shallow stage which has been covered… Once you barely activate the first light left foot brake and creep an inch or two at a time until you barely activate the 2nd staging light… Then use the left foot on the brake and right foot on gas… When you launch dump the brake and hammer the gas to the floor in one swift motion as fast as possible… Make sure you stay on the gas all the way through the traps… Some places have the timing towers prior to the actual end of the track… Maybe watch a few cars so you can see where the end really is… It may be obvious but it may not be… I try to run with 1/8-1/4 and like you said remove the spare and tools and any stuff in the car but don’t rice it up by taking any fixed things out of the car… Also, run the car in auto mode with all nannies off, IE hold the button down for 5 seconds until ESP/ASR are both off…
If possible please get a goprop vid mounted on the sunroof so we can see how the car shifts and such… Also, a good way to see how straight you keep the car and such… If you can get someone to film outside the car that would be great as well but I realize that isn’t always possible… I’ll guess on 100 you will run 12.5-12.7 at 110-112… Looking forward to the results! Most importantly have fun and I think you will get hooked:)~
Might rain this weekend. We shall see.
Haha that’s brilliant. I thought I was bad hurtling down the 1320 with ESP screaming at me but at least I went to tech 
[quote=“CountVohn,post:118,topic:4177”]
[size=10pt]New to this forum and I like the spirited conversation and no-holds-barred theme. CV’s statement stood out to me and underscores the type of driving I do.
I have EuroCode headers and bought them largely for sound aesthetics. Gives the exhaust a refined note that I was seeking. If I get more low-end torque that’s a plus. My car is my DD and I enjoy the exhaust and other mods I have. For me it’s all about the driving experience and part of that is an intangible quality.
Some buy $6000 wheels for their lower unsprung mass and perhaps hoping for better times and few balk at that. When I bought the headers no one promised I would get better ETs. I don’t feel I was deceived in any way by EuroCode as some would like to assert. If I wanted a car for low ET, I could have saved a lot of $$ and bought a 70 VW beetle, which would lay some whoopass on any B8 S4 any day. I know, I have seen them at the track. As for using professional drivers to test mods, I think that is smart, it takes a lot of variability out of the equation. As we can see from some of the runs posted here, it is often hard to tell if it’s the driver or the car.
Ready, aim fire, put me on blast.
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I don’t think euro code is deceiving anyone really. They’re just selling a product that some people don’t think is adding enough value relative to the cost and hassle. You are right though people love to spend a fortune on wheels etc. and don’t receive the scrutiny. Of course they aren’t championing their wheels all over with dynod and blustery claims either.
You have said you like the noise the headers make and the torque bump. Awesome, and that won’t get you in any fights anywhere. The people that see drama are the ones who make bogus claims and don’t come to grips with the fact that non header cars are achieving that same torque bump via other means (test pipes, hfc etc)
With respect to ‘if I bought a car for et I would have bought…’ that’s where I’ll fire at you.
You bought an audi and so did all of us, but I can assure you…NONE OF US bought it for et.
We bought four door luxury cars with a performance edge to them…and some of us want to modify them to accelerate faster. We ALL buy our power mods for acceleration, which is easily measured with et and trap speed gains.
Lots of people say ‘these cars aren’t made for the dragstrip’ or ‘if i wanted a dragstrip car I’d have bought xxxxx’.
It’s usually after finding out their power mods didn’t do too well at the best acceleration test out there…and they now are trying to distance themselves from the results that were effectively a bucket of cold water on their campfire party.
In any event this doesn’t seem to apply to you but i hope you better understand the dragstrip test as it relates to our heavy luxury audis.
Welcome. Nice job on the quote
CCWS4, welcome to the forum…
I’ll disagree with Saki on the point about EC and their practices… Their dyno’s don’t seem to be accurate based on track results which is why they choose to post the fluke trap speed run over a time with nearly .4 better ET… They are trying to sell products, I get that, but they should be more transparant… Look at their latest intake product and it’s claimed 10% improvement in gas mileage… really? I won’t rehash that since there is another thread on that… Of course that is just my opinion…
I also have the utmost respect for CV as he has exponentially more knowledge then I… Even he acknowledges the strip results have been favorable and given claimed dyno #'s they should be better…
As for the point about Audi’s not being drag cars, that is well understood, but an 11.7-11.9 at 117-119 cutting 60’s in the low 1.6x range in a 4,000+ sedan beats 90-95% of the cars I encounter at the strip on a weekly basis so it actually is setup pretty well for drag racing… It’s even worse on the street with our AWD and ability to cut those same 60’s stop light to stop light…
I will agree with CV, that at some point the dyno results are meaningless. I have been around drag strips most of my life (as a spectator) and love the sport. HP is but one component to winning a race. Those who get their campfire doused have unreasonable expectations and don’t really understand cars or drag racing.
Growing up in the late 70s early 80s we tested our mettle in street racing, something that today has been largely shut down. Side-by-side racing is where it’s at for me. In most of those cases it’s a rolling race. I drive a lot between Arizona and California and last trip I hooked up with a guy in an Acura NSX with a loud as fuck exhaust. This is 70 to 140 MPH racing. I put some serious hurt on this guy in 2 runs. So much so, that he was baffled by what had just happened and had to ask me what the hell I was running.
^^^I think if someone goes to the dragstrip in their DSG B8 S4 with AWD, they have every expectation of incredible consistency.
You are alluding to the boatloads of variability in results that are driver dependant…however you appear to be basing that on a history of watching high power RWD cars. You said you grew up going to the dragstrip. You sound like you’ve been out of high school for a while. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I will go ahead guess that you never once saw an AWD Audi with a dual clutch automatic transmission at the strip make 10 passes. If you did you’d be shocked.
Next time you’re at the strip, watch someone with massive drag radials and a powerglide transmission. Take note of his times, because the consistency will shock you. Same with these AWD Audis. When I make 10 passes at teh strip, excluding the one where I miss a gear trying to shift uber quickly, the other 9 will be within 1 to 1.5 tenths and they will all be within 1.0 MPH of each other. And I drive a manual transmission RS4. Put an automatic AWD AUDI in someone’s hands and look at their timeslips.
It’s STAGGERINGLY consistent:
CAR 4091
http://i.imgur.com/G6RsLVP.jpg
CAR 3
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v171/Ynnekdude/DragStrip_Top3_zps4c53a515.jpg
CC, welcome. Headers, love them or hate them, they do sound good.
I have a test n tune next wednesday night.
Should I run 91 or 100 file?
Roc-Euro
EC Headers
Milltek Resonated Exhaust
GIAC Stage 1
On a side note, what is the over/under on when APR releases the Simos flash for the 2013 models?
^^ Glad to see that you’re getting out to the track. I would start with the 91 file - see how your car performs on pump first.
That is what I’m thinking, pump gas file for a baseline.
Wish I took it to the track before the mods were slapped on, oh well. I built the car for the road course, not the strip, so no regrets.
Looking forward to your times… Don’t think I have seen any from a 13+ yet? Agreed stock baseline would be nice but it is what it is… Curious to see how the gear change impacts the various track split times also… Do you have and/or can you gopro the passes? Also, do you have vagcom and can you datalog? Not sure if you have and/or how much experience you have so I would be glad to help if needed…