got a fedex slip on my door looks like the parts are here already!!!
Nice!
got all my new front end stuff in today but im nursing a pretty wicked hangover so nothing got done. should have her back on the ground tomorrow and ill wash her all up and post pics.
the parts seem to be of nice quality
should I be putting some weight on the suspension before I tighten the bolts for the bushings on all the control arms? im afraid if I tighten them up while still at full travel it will be overly hard on the bushings or is this a non issue?
[quote=“Badtoyz,post:63,topic:6347”]
I believe you should be putting full weight on before tightening them down. I would put some stands under the hubs/lower control arms and lower it down on that. That way everything is still easily accessible. If you don’t it will put pre-load on the bushings and prematurely wear them out.
Absolutely apply weight before tightening them down. If not the bushing wear out really fast. The way I did it was I had the car on jack stands and once I had everything in place I jacked the wheel hub up until the car was about to lift off the jack stand closest to the wheel i was working on. Then just tightened them down.
[quote=“Badtoyz,post:63,topic:6347”]
The front UCAs should be installed at a certain angle and the Lowers mostly need torqued to spec at ride height…here
Uppers
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b601/rs4elitist/Screen%20caps/UCA_zps9ca84c17.jpg
Lowers
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b601/rs4elitist/Screen%20caps/LCA_zpsd80f49b1.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b601/rs4elitist/Screen%20caps/FrontIPB_zpsd66fc1a8.jpg
Front Suspension Component Overview
•1 - Bolt, 75 Nm
•2 - Washer
•3 - Bolt
Always replace if removed.
•4 - Upper link, rear
•5 - Bolt, 7 Nm
•6 - Bolt
•7 - Nut, self-locking, 45 Nm
Always replace if removed.
•8 - Bolt, 40 Nm
•9 - Nut, self-locking
Always replace if removed.
•10 - Upper link, front
•11 - Strut
•12 - Bolt, 70 Nm + an additional 180 degree turn.
Always replace if removed.
•13 - Lower guide link
•14 - Nut, self-locking, 110 Nm
Always replace if removed.
•15 - Wheel bearing housing
•16 - Drive axle bolt
Always replace if removed
•17 - Bolt, 10 Nm
•18 - Shield plate
•19 - Nut, self-locking
Always replace if removed.
•20 - Bolt 90 Nm
•21 - Subframe support
•22 - Bolt, 55 Nm
•23 - Bolt
•110 Nm + an additional 90 degrees ( 1 / 4 turn).
Always replace if removed.
•24 - Bolt
•40 Nm + an additional 90 degrees ( 1 / 4 turn).
Always replace if removed.
•25 - Connecting link
•26 - Bolt
•40 Nm + an additional 90 degrees ( 1 / 4 turn).
Always replace if removed
•27 - Lower control link
•28 - Bolt 70 Nm + an additional 180 degrees turn.
Always replace if removed.
•29 - Bolt, 75 Nm
Always replace if removed.
•30 - Subframe
•31 - Nut, self-locking
Always replace if removed.
•32 - Nut, self-locking
Always replace if removed.
•33 - Multi point socket head bolt
•First pre-tighten all bolts to 15 Nm, then tighten all bolts to specifications.
•Tightening specifications:
•M8 bolt: 40 Nm
•M10 bolt: 70 Nm
•34 - Backing plate
•35 - Drive axle
•36 - Bolt
Always replace if removed
•37 - Nut, self-locking
•50 Nm + an additional 90 degrees ( 1 / 4 turn).
Always replace if removed.
•38 - Nut
•50 Nm
Always replace if removed.
ive got the car up in the air on 4 jack stands. because im going lower I think ill put a block of wood under the rotor and jack it up. the 81 and 70mm measurements will probabaly be off because of the extra drop. I figure that should keep them happy, my old ones were pretty ripped up.
thanks for all that info euro.
That’s why I did it this way, being lowered I didn’t think the angles would be the same. Are you already lowered or is that happening later? I had to use a few pieces of 2x4 stacked on top of each other because I didn’t have a block.
im putting in the h&r springs now.
done and done. really happy with the stance, I think it looks great. as for the performance I cant say yet cuz the car bounces down the street like fuckin lowrider with no pressure in the drc system lol.
I lost my shit for a second when I first put the car down, both wheels were pointing way out and I wasn’t sure what I did wrong. I took a look at a before pic and realized I put the tie rods into the knuckle upside down. oops. fixed that and all is well. I am getting some rubbing but this may just be because the drc system is open. once I fill the system ill iron out the kinks.
im happy with the mirrors too theres a bit of orange peel but any paint looks that way before a polish.
heres some pics after a wash, tm ill take some in the day.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/20141108_012418_zpsdic8vhpa.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141108_010750_zps1blhtina.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141108_010735_zpsw66gww1f.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141108_010656_zpsoerildgr.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141108_010806_zpsp6eoyz9s.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141108_010818_zpsdqylntd1.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141108_010839_zpshigrv6p8.jpg
Those mirrors are the bees knees!
thanks marcus.
couple of things if anyone is looking at doing this.
-
the shock assembly can be removed by just unbolting the 3 bolts at the top and the one at the bottom. the kw install guide has u taking too much apart.
-
while u have the shocks out tighten the bolts as much as you can while still allowing the bushing to move freely, getting both yer hands with 2 wrenches is pretty awkward.
-
put the tie rods in from the bottom lmao…
-
I trimmed about 3/4 of an inch off the bump stop and the tabs from the b7 isolator and used the b5 perches to get that nice level look.
this job is pretty straight forward, if not for the pinch bolts and setting up tools and waiting for parts it could easily be done in a day. when I was trying to figure out what I had done wrong I pulled the shock back out and put it back in in like 20 minutes.
I’ve read other places that you don’t have to disconnect the DRC shocks. Wondering why you needed to?
Looks great man!
You don’t HAVE to, but if your lines look a little “tired” it is probably best. The problem is the lines are more than a shock and replacing the lines can get very expensive. I had a line on my front passenger side that was worn through and leaking…twisting it around to remove the shock would have just ripped it open.
I still have a set of H&R springs and B5 perches for sale…cough cough
^^^ I honestly would pay the 230 to refill the system any time I need to remove a shock, working with it in that area is pure cursing frustration. the line is rubber on the outside then braided stainless and then rubber again. I broke the drivers side as soon as I tried to move the shock out of the well so I just removed the other saide right away, don’t forget I did the ball joints too and having the shock assembly on the floor where u can stand on it to remove the upper control arm bolts is very helpful.
my stealth bulbs just came in so I can do my clear corners. they look really good. ill post a shot of them illuminated once theyre in.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141109_013300_zpswmyhf8cc.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141109_013306_zps30kf9ucs.jpg
Let me know how the headlight mod goes. Plan on doing it very soon after I get back.
I would just buy the european ones off ebay and either sell your stockers or keep them and sell the european ones when you sell the car.
No need to take them apart and all that shit.
i still have to take them apart to paint the inside black so ill just spend the money elsewhere and take these ones apart.
heres a couple day time shots. fucking impossible to keep it clean in this new construction area. look at the mud on my driveway just dripping off the trucks.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141109_121805_zpsmmf85xjl.jpg
I think this stance is perfect. im really happy with the look.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141109_121847_zps4vbfe454.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141109_121935_zpso4s7nrbk.jpg
I may have to pop the mirrors off one more time I don’t think I got the rubber trim under the mirror quite right.
