Ball in a can kind of sound from back of engine? What's going on?

[Coderedpl]

is it drivable?

Somewhat.

[beemercer]

There was an engine torque test that I had to do like three times before I left the dealership. It made you drive the car WOT to see if the engine torque went over what it should be. None of those cars were modded so it didn’t show anything past the spec but it would be interesting to look at the measuring vWwwalue block on a heavily modded car in turbo mode using a vag-com. I wonder how far off the measuring value block is from what you are actually putting down.

‘actual torque’ is a field you can log in Newton meters. It reads a bit lower than crank torque and higher than a dyno proper

I logged it on my car and converted to lb ft and then made a torque and HP plot

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/744079309.jpg

is that measuring block in the engine or engine 2 module?

the older cars have it in the abs module (along with lots of other cool fields) but moving it to the engine 1/2 is interesting

[Apat]

The reason for me not thinking its a timing failure is a couple of things. The sound isn’t rhythmic and it went away. My sound was consistent, rhythmic and much louder.

Who knows though. Its a very odd sound and I’m sure not all timing related failures sound or act the same. I was lucky enough to have a failure that didn’t even throw codes. Engine ran great just made a weird ticking noise after the oil was warmed up.

I hope its something easy fingers crossed

[NY07RS4]

There was an engine torque test that I had to do like three times before I left the dealership. It made you drive the car WOT to see if the engine torque went over what it should be. None of those cars were modded so it didn’t show anything past the spec but it would be interesting to look at the measuring vWwwalue block on a heavily modded car in turbo mode using a vag-com. I wonder how far off the measuring value block is from what you are actually putting down.

‘actual torque’ is a field you can log in Newton meters. It reads a bit lower than crank torque and higher than a dyno proper

I logged it on my car and converted to lb ft and then made a torque and HP plot

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/744079309.jpg

is that measuring block in the engine or engine 2 module?

the older cars have it in the abs module (along with lots of other cool fields) but moving it to the engine 1/2 is interesting

Yes, I will confirm later which one. I’ve used it to confirm I went flashed back to stock before driving in to the .dealer. I also checked throttle position etc. I find it very useful and am happy i was told how to do this via vagcom.

Sorry Codered for the thread jack.

Keep us posted.

[sakimano]

is that measuring block in the engine or engine 2 module?

the older cars have it in the abs module (along with lots of other cool fields) but moving it to the engine 1/2 is interesting

engine

[beemercer]

is that measuring block in the engine or engine 2 module?

the older cars have it in the abs module (along with lots of other cool fields) but moving it to the engine 1/2 is interesting

engine

makes sense given the strict torque control

[Coderedpl]

Still at dealer and still no word.

[sakimano]

this will be an interesting test of TD1T10 or whatever it’s called. Basically JHM makes NO attempt to hide their tune on these cars. They change the name of the vehicle to say JHM 4.7 (or 4.8 or 5.0) right in the title so that techs will see it and the weird displacement will jump off the screen at them as weird.

[Coderedpl]

Still no word from the dealership on what the issue is.
I did call them and the guy said they are still in the diagnosis stage.

I thought maybe it’s the actual chip in the ecu but I did nothing out of the ordinary. And if it would of screwed up it would of done it a long time ago.
I was getting a load of o2 sensor codes and I forgot to disconnect them to see if it would run different.

[Coderedpl]

So I got the car back, and I was in for a shocker.
Sakimano is right, YOU CAN get TD1’ed with something before a B8, so it applies to all vehicles, I’m not officialy TD1’ed yet but I’m running a high risk of getting it now. The service advisor at the dealer is working with me at the dealer to possibly avoid it but I need to get this damn readiness code set, more on that later.

Here is what codes I had when I took it in to the dealer, there was 1 more that caused a CEL to come on but I didnt have that since I saw it on the way to dealer.

3 Faults Found:
16890 - Idle Control System
P0506 - 002 - RPM Lower than Expected - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 108741 km
Time Indication: 0

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 593 /min
                Load: 17.6 %
                Speed: 0.0 km/h
                Temperature: 101.0°C
                Temperature: 52.0°C
                Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.716 V

18627 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P2195 - 008 - Signal too Low (Lean)
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 108741 km
Time Indication: 0

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 645 /min
                Load: 18.0 %
                Speed: 0.0 km/h
                Temperature: 102.0°C
                Temperature: 57.0°C
                Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.462 V

16520 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0136 - 008 - Malfunction in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 108741 km
Time Indication: 0

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 805 /min
                Load: 14.9 %
                Speed: 0.0 km/h
                Temperature: 100.0°C
                Temperature: 61.0°C
                Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.462 V

Here is what they did:
They replaced the two o2 sensors.
Then they wanted to replace my gutted cat pipes with actual cats because the readiness is “INCOMPLETE” and they cannot set it’s readiness. I told them this will not work or fix anything. So after some going back and forth it was agreed I’ll take the car and drive it around a bit to see if it will set readiness automatically.

Any idea how long that takes?

Here is the still existing issues now:
I’m still getting a rough idle, the tricky part is it happens on and off during my driving.
On my way to work at some point the CEL started to flash, I stopped, connected my obd2 tool and then the CEL went away as soon as i put the car into park.

A quick fault code scan revealed the following:
P0174 - System Too Lean (BANK 2)
P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire detected

Car ran rough, so i cleared the codes and immediately as I did, it went back to normal. Shortly after, rough idle again but no CEL yet.
BUT the O2 codes are not popping up as they were before.

I spoke to the tech that worked on my car and he said the “Idle Control System P0506 - 002 - RPM Lower than Expected - Intermittent” could be a throttle body issue.

I was getting the O2 sensor codes for about 2 weeks or so, on and off.
Then I did the throttle body adjustment via vag-com and it seems that when I did that, my rough idle issue appeared. Do you guys think cleaning it out could possibly help?
How the hell can i remove it? or can i clean it without removing it?

[JPO]

Removing the throttle body is pretty easy. Basically remove the boot, disconnect the er connector and unbolt the throttle body (as I recall it anyway). But before you get that far you can see if it’s dirty by pulling of the boot and peeking in.

[Coderedpl]

Removing the throttle body is pretty easy. Basically remove the boot, disconnect the er connector and unbolt the throttle body (as I recall it anyway). But before you get that far you can see if it’s dirty by pulling of the boot and peeking in.

That’s the plan. Going to try cleaning everything, doing the adaptation again, depending on results, unplugging maf to see if that’s the culprit.

If not then I have no damn clue.

[Coderedpl]

Well looks like either my general assumption was correct, or the combination of things I did helped, at least for the time being it seems correct.

I did the following yesterday:

• removed throttle body and cleaned it. It had a bit of build up that didn’t really come off with just plain spraying of the cleaner, I had to use a towel to get it off after it was soaked
• tested + removed maf sensor and cleaned it. Car ran worse with it disconnected which led me to believe it was fine.
• minimally tightened the intake manifold bolts all around. I went through each hex bolt and some of them could be very lightly turned without using too much force.

For now I’m not getting any system too lean codes, just seems like one of my bank 2 sensors failed now. Weird how almost all 4 sensors failed at the same time.

1 Fault Found: 16543 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S2 P0159 - 001 - Response too Slow Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100001 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 108943 km Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame: RPM: 2282 /min Load: 14.1 % Speed: 106.0 km/h Temperature: 96.0°C Temperature: 27.0°C Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar Voltage: 13.970 V

Readiness: 0010 1001

So going back to dealer to have them fix that and hopefully I’ll be able to set readiness at that point.
P.s. Any ideas how that’s done? I saw some aging bank 1&2 tests in vagcom in basic settings. I’m assuming that’s what it is since I did it for the secondary air and it then showed up as passed.