Battery Replacement/ Installation DIY

B6/7 S4/RS4
#17

^Yea, it’s a hard lesson learned, but one you’ll never forget. It’s much safer to always disconnect the negative first, and also reconnect it last. Remember this same technique when jumping a car as well.

That’s why if you do it this way, hardly any sparks fly but if ya do it the other way, that positive terminal with spark pretty good if ya don’t catch it just right.

The battery is bad, but I didn’t think it was awful after how much I psyched myself up as well. From what I hear, the Count just uses his pinky finger to remove and install these batteries.

#18

The 3.0 A4 does share the same battery with the S4. Same location too.

#19

If anyone is looking for a lighter option than OEM and still wants 850cca check out the Interstate Batteries MTP-93. It weighs in at 43lbs. 85 mo pro rate 30mo free replacement. Retails around $150. Same size as OEM.

I’ve seen the S4 battery in some A4s but some V6 A4s were equipped with a similar looking battery that is 12 3/8" long and has 650cca instead of 850cca(13 1/2"). They can use either battery.

Disclaimer
I manage an Interstate Batteries. I am biased on what batteries are good and bad but I am right…lol

#20

That’s weird. My A4 battery had the original factory battery and it was 850cca. I remember because I was looking into replacing it before I decided to sell it.

Audi just can’t make up their mind.

#21

I went with an optima red top. Same width as oem (so the oem bracket will still grab it to secure it) but a good bit lighter and still good cca etc. I have a pretty serious stereo though, I wanted to error on the side of caution, and JHM still hasn’t built any brackets to make some of the ultra light batteries a bolt in option. I’m happy though as now I don’t DD my car as much so having the extra reserve with the battery is nice.

#22

I had to put a new battery in last week. Still was on the OEM factory battery and after 6 years it didn’t like -35C anymore. Went with a Optima redtop. Handled the cold great, huge weight drop, easy install.

#23

was there a mount problem or did you ghetto shim it with cardboard like PES did with their customer’s car after they re-installed his new motor (after hydrolocking it, lying to the guy’s warranty company, getting the replacement engine and charging him a $1500 premium for getting him a lower mileage motor that the warranty company waived lol)

#24

Details details lol…

I might pawn off my 2 year old oem style battery on Craigslist and pick up a red top. Maybe I’ll make a home depot special aluminum bracket for it

#25

the factory clamp grabbed it good. just bolted it in and went for a violent drive, checked it, and it was fine. wouldnt mind a strap over the back as heavy breaking is the only way I could see a issue.

#26

I think I’m personally going to go with the one that Apat mentioned.

It’s only +6 lbs over the red top and matches the CCA of the OEM, for less $.

#27

I considered it. I got my red top from Interstate since work has a account with them and I’m alergic to paying retail. But in the end every lb counts and I think the red top has enough jam to do the job.

#28

Interesting that the stock bracket worked so well for you DuncanC (btw did you just join?) I found it held it from bouncing up, but I could still push the battery sideways. I’m going to try and make a home depot bracket myself this weekend, just for peace of mind. I have a couple ideas and they would be pretty easy to implement, I was just strapped for time when I did the battery swap.

#29

^The redtop’s dimensions length wise (side to side of the car) are less than the OEM battery, but the width (front to back of the car) are pretty close to OEM. I think the slightly cheaper & lighter yellow top doesn’t match the width as well though. Anyhow, my redtop was able to be pretty secured with just the oem bracket due to it’s similar width. I just got it in place and cranked it down. There might have been a tiny bit of wiggle, but I felt that it wasn’t going to be going anywhere.

JHM at one time was going to make a bracket for some of the lightweight battery options out there, but I think they were hesitant to pick a specific battery as they were worried people who didn’t drive frequently enough or who were in worse climates might suffer from not enough juice in the battery and it probably wasn’t worth people complaining (even though it obviously wouldn’t have anything to do with JHM, but that’s how things go).

#30

Here’s bora’s LW battery install thread: http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=176.msg2329#msg2329

#31

After seeing this thread pop up back to the top I thought I would post an update.

So far the battery has worked incredibly well. Initially I was a bit apprehensive on the low CCA of the redtop, but there have been a number of very cold days in Chicago, and up in Madison, and it has started up every time like a champ.

For those of you thinking of picking one up, just make sure you get the 35 series and it should fit pretty damn well. I used Bora’s shim idea and it hasn’t moved an inch since I installed it.

After the LW crank pulley, and the LW rotors, saving 30 lbs from a battery is an easy choice. I think people have been worrying too much on the CCA, but considering I drive my car every day in Chicago most people won’t have any issue with it.

#32

Optima underrates their CCA ratings. As does Interstate. The 35 series Optima will work for most climates but our neighbors to the north may need an OEM style battery.

BTW my book shows the 35 series weighing in at 32lbs. So the weight savings vs the MTP-93(43lbs) may be worth it.

#33

^Yea I forgot to mention which “series” I had. I THINK it was the 35 or 37 series. The series is a big factor as far as size and CCA. To me it was a pretty big weight drop, a great option for stereo equipment, decent price, and great reviews/life etc.

#34

I compared the 34R to the MTP-93 as it appeared to have the same dimensions in size, so I figured it would be a perfect fit.

According to the optima site that is right around 37lbs, the 35 is a slightly smaller battery dimensionwise and ~7lbs lighter than the 34R.

#35

I got the 35 series too, CCA was a step up for me (620 stock 720 optima?) And the 30 pound drop was pretty convenient considering the output and price point.

As far as cold starts, It doesnt get much below -10C (20F?) where I live, and it started fine at that temperature.

#36

oem ‘style’? What is this…some kind of counterfeit battery bootleg operation, motherfucker?

Personally I’d never pay more than $20 for an OEM used battery in a 8 year old car. The guy might say it’s only 2 years old but I’d never believe him. Especially someone shady like joe lol