Car ran rough misfires stalled wont start

Just trying to get more solutions car recently had a jhm clutch and LW flywheel wheel installed and catless pipes plus OEM fuel filter. Got the car back from the shop the next day I went to start the car , car started ran rough would not idle and not rev. Car was misfiring very loud trough intake turned the car off then ran a scan and got codes for misfires on 3 5 and 6 , cam sensor and rich on left bank car had timing belt done 10 thousand miles ago. The car always had a left bank code replaced the coil packs on those cylinders and I started the car back up ran rough and stalled now car will not fire . Turns over Fine but battery will not hold charge any more , fuel pump does turn on . Took a look at the timing belt looks fine can’t see how it could jump a tooth belt is tight will line up timing marks next to see if timing is off please need anybody’s help cars a daily driver thanks 2002 Audi a4 3.0 6 speed sport package cold weather package Mod list - OEM full votex kit jhm clutch LW flywheel jhm catless down pipes jhm trans mount mil tech exhaust APR snub mount kn filter zingo air box mod votex spoiler roof spoiler 18 " TSW nardo rims carbon fiber interior trim hid 8000 high low beams

Post up some pics. denim blue is a great color

You should start by taking it to autozone or oriellys and have them test the charging system for free, tell you if the alternator is good. If it is then it sounds like the car is not going into sleep mode and something is drawing the battery.

Since you have the K&N air filter you have a good chance you have a bad MAF if someone oiled it when the cleaned it or didn’t clean it if its new because I think they come pre oiled., I would unplug the MAF it maybe see if your idle gets worse if it can even get worse.

Maybe also try moving spark plugs around see if the misfire moves, but if you have bad MAF that can cause mifires. also definitely want to change that cam sensor and then go from there.

Is the car tuned as well?

My car has not been tuned yet . I will pull the plugs out to check them they where just changed when I did the timing belt I live in VT and working on it outside in the cold so am just checking what I can with out freezing it’s only been a high of 15 degrees today the car will not move so I will have to get it towed . The car was in the shop with almost a empty tank of gas so maybe there was moisture I will try to dump Some dry gas in it tomorrow along with doing compression test on the cylinders

pressure tested the cyclinders car had 140-150 bought brand new spark plugs and battiery car still wont start turns over has spark and fuel will try to replace crank sensor next to see what will happen

Have there been any new codes since you started the car a second time?

Im waiting for my crank sensor it should be here on Wednesday I have not hook it up to scan since the new coilpacks and spark plugs car does not start at all just turns over hopefully the car will start with the new crank sensor

Let me know if you need pictures of the crank sensor location. I have the trans ripped out of mine right now so I have a clear shot of the location of the sensor. Its a bitch to get in there too work too. Just fyi.

Did you inspect the old crank sensor? You can log the car to see if the crank sensor is bad. If you remove the old crank sensor and notice damage, don’t install the new one till you make sure the tone ring isn’t damaged.

Thanks sjorge 3442 and count Vohn we are getting a big storm so I have not been able to do much work on the car I tried to take of the sheild for the crank sensor and was unable to take it off the Allen head bolt will not come out seized up plus laying under the car with my hands over my head for two hours was enough for me it almost seems like I could reach the sensor for the top of the engine is this possible ?

definitely cannot reach the sensor from the top. Not a chance in hell. You must be looking at the wrong sensor. I will post a picture tonight. Im just about done with my clutch swap, so I need to install the sensor still.

Also CountVohn, what do you mean dont install the sensor if you notice damage? I changed mine a few weeks ago when my car died and I thought it was the sensor (ended up being the timing jumped) and when I pulled the sensor, it had a chunk missing out of the tip. I put the new one in, without thinking twice about it. Also, my DMF was failing so maybe the flywheel rotating off balance was responsible for hitting the sensor.

I found the sensor it has a shield over it real pain to track the wire where it goes might switch the route when I reinstall it a lot more room opened up now with the cats gone . How hard was it to fix the timing in your car I looked at mine and my marks I made before line up . I don’t think I jumped a tooth hopefully just the sensor went bad

If the sensor doesn’t solve the problem, check and see if your fuel pump was installed correctly. Check the power/ground going to it and the fuel feed clamps from the pump to the top of the assembly. It seems like maybe you’re having a fuel pressure issue. Good luck.

Just installed the new crank sensor there was two Allen head bolts holding the shield on plus the 10 mm bolt sensor had no marks on it just the end was dirty installed the new sensor with the spacer and the car still won’t start it sounded like it was going to but nothing maybe it is off a tooth on timing I thought the marks lined up good going to give up an send it to a garage maybe they can find the problem

my car rolled backwards in 4th gear with the engine off which is what messed my timing up. Don’t ask how, as no mechanics or shops have been able to explain this to me. Any way, I simply (I say it likes easy) disconnected the timing belt then grabbed the cam gears by hand and rotated them in order to slide the cam locks in place. I did this by myself at like midnight. No one else was around to help me, but if they were, it would have been much easier. I’ve taken this whole car apart (atleast it seems like it) about 4 times since I’ve owned it since September. All of the fixes were minimal, but a bitch to do.

Any luck with the car running yet? Just realized its been 4 days since your last post.

Sorry guys went and bought a new truck but still have the car replaced the crank sensor my wife hands where small enough to help out she was able to reach down behind the motor to put the sockets on the bolts . Replaced the sensor car still didn’t start I left the car untouched went out after two weeks car started ran really rough misfiring . Then the car had the over heating warning light come on and traction control light car then stalled and won’t start again.

the temp light leads me to believe it could be one of the coolant temp sensors. Both on the 3.0 are really easy to change and can potentially cause hard starts and misfires. Could also be a timing issue. How long did it run until it started showing the over heating light? The traction control light will flash when misfires are happening so thats extraneous here.